Can you Mix Brake Pads??
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,454
Likes: 3
From: Hells Sister City Phoenix AZ
St. Jude Donor '03
I've replaced the fronts with ceramic but the rears were only about 1/2 worn, so I left them alone. I've got almost 10K on this arrangement and don't notice any difference.
Some argue that ceramics don't have the stopping power and say you'll go through rotors alot quicker. I don't routinely drive mine hard enough to tell the difference. What I have noticed is the lack of brake dust.
Some argue that ceramics don't have the stopping power and say you'll go through rotors alot quicker. I don't routinely drive mine hard enough to tell the difference. What I have noticed is the lack of brake dust.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
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From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Anyone else??
Thinking of semi-metalic on the fronts. Just put new ceramic on the back.
DH
Thinking of semi-metalic on the fronts. Just put new ceramic on the back.
DH
for track use
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
why not. But dont take that to the track. Ceramics are a for track use
for track useI have been running the Hawk's at the track without any fade...probably because of the Erradispeeds.
I unexpectadely had to replace the rears...and went with ceramic replacements. But tomarrow I WILL HAVE the semi-metalics put on the front...
DH
Last edited by Dirty Howie; Aug 8, 2005 at 07:12 PM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 508
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From: boston ma
I don't race my vet at the track or even drive crazy for that matter but can you explain how the ceramic style brake pads "eat" through the rotors quicker than the semi-metalic style? I was looking to change my original pads to ceramic just to cut back on the brake dust it throws... 
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,454
Likes: 3
From: Hells Sister City Phoenix AZ
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by thug29
I don't race my vet at the track or even drive crazy for that matter but can you explain how the ceramic style brake pads "eat" through the rotors quicker than the semi-metalic style? I was looking to change my original pads to ceramic just to cut back on the brake dust it throws...
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: SoCal
Had the Semi-metalic installed on the front this morning. Can't tell how they work with the ceramics in the back yet because I have not bedded them yet......AND....I have a very soft pedal after changing the brake fluid. It goes back tomarrow AM!!
DH
DH
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,549
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From: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
I have to disagree with the previous post about ceramic pads. I swapped the stock Z06 pads after 3K miles due to the horrendous amount of dust they generate. I have run in one HPDE event and one track day in the last month. The stopping power of the pads is almost the equal of the stock pads and the rotor wear is negligible. I still have over 1/2 of the pad thickness left after checking last evening. IMHO the GM creamics are a good compromise of performance and no dusting. 
As far as mixing types of pads on the front and rear, I do not recommend it. Different friction characteristics front to rear can cause problems with ABS and AH if you drive the car hard. the pads are not that expensive and easy to change. Keep them both the same.
As far as mixing types of pads on the front and rear, I do not recommend it. Different friction characteristics front to rear can cause problems with ABS and AH if you drive the car hard. the pads are not that expensive and easy to change. Keep them both the same.
Last edited by CHJ In Virginia; Aug 24, 2005 at 08:40 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by CHJ In Virginia
I have to disagree with the previous post about ceramic pads. I swapped the stock Z06 pads after 3K miles due to the horrendous amount of dust they generate. I have run in one HPDE event and one track day in the last month. The stopping power of the pads is almost the equal of the stock pads and the rotor wear is negligible. I still have over 1/2 of the pad thickness left after checking last evening. IMHO the GM creamics are a good compromise of performance and no dusting. As far as mixing types of pads on the front and rear, I do not recommend it. Different friction characteristics front to rear can cause problems with ABS and AH if you drive the car hard. the pads are not that expensive and easy to change. Keep them both the same.
As far as mixing types of pads on the front and rear, I do not recommend it. Different friction characteristics front to rear can cause problems with ABS and AH if you drive the car hard. the pads are not that expensive and easy to change. Keep them both the same.I do run ceramic fronts and stock rear pads on the street for the dust factor. They don't work 1/4 as good as my Hawk HT-10 track pads but I get used to it after a couple of days. I don't have any problems but I don't run hard on the street.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: SoCal
Well I put the semi metalics(Bendix) in the front and ceramics(Centric) in the rear. I did a real good bedding. They seem to work as well as the Hawk HPS. But testing at the track will be in 4 weeks. The fronts definately dust more..but considering that the pads are larger its not that much more. Anyways I detail spray my car and wheels every 3days...... 
DH
DH
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Well I put the semi metalics(Bendix) in the front and ceramics(Centric) in the rear. I did a real good bedding. They seem to work as well as the Hawk HPS. But testing at the track will be in 4 weeks. The fronts definately dust more..but considering that the pads are larger its not that much more. Anyways I detail spray my car and wheels every 3days......
DH
DH
I then installed DRM cooling ducts and HP-10 pads, and had no problems at all at Sebring, brakes were awesome.
I wish I'd had listened to the folks in Autocross forum and just skipped trying to use combination track/street pads (HP+) and went straight to the track pads. Would have saved me the cost of one set of ceramics and the HP+'s! Lucky for us our pads are quite easy to change back and forth.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
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From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Originally Posted by Joe_G
I hope you don't learn the hard way like me... I went from ceramics to Hawk HP +, but the HP+ didn't last one event once I started really driving the car. Boiled the fluid, and basically had no brakes. Scary the first time I hit the brakes and had nothing!
I then installed DRM cooling ducts and HP-10 pads, and had no problems at all at Sebring, brakes were awesome.
I wish I'd had listened to the folks in Autocross forum and just skipped trying to use combination track/street pads (HP+) and went straight to the track pads. Would have saved me the cost of one set of ceramics and the HP+'s! Lucky for us our pads are quite easy to change back and forth.
I then installed DRM cooling ducts and HP-10 pads, and had no problems at all at Sebring, brakes were awesome.
I wish I'd had listened to the folks in Autocross forum and just skipped trying to use combination track/street pads (HP+) and went straight to the track pads. Would have saved me the cost of one set of ceramics and the HP+'s! Lucky for us our pads are quite easy to change back and forth.
My first HPDE I use Hawk HPS pads. Worst decission I made. Those pads were toast in the one weekend, the dust made my yellow car look like baby puke
Then went to Hawk HP Plus, They were OK but boiled the Super blue fluid and experienced brake fade and pad glazing too many times.
Some one gave me a set of GM ceamics to try. I put them on when I got home for street use, and chit
I though I would never stop even from 40 mph. Then it was PFC-Z pads, those lasted two days, no stopping there either.Then went to PFC-01s and WOW, finally could stop the car again.
Now I use Wilwood H pads with Castrol SRF brake fluid. Stopping is unbeilevalbe, Havent found a BBK outfitted car that can stop quicker - maybe I just have bigger nads or less brains
I do eat rotors now for lunch as rotors last two weekends max. Pads last 5 weekends( down to 50% and I change pads) on the front and so far 7 weekends on the rear. The Wilwood H pads should be good for limited street use, but not the PFC-01s on the street.
Yes I have DRM brake ducts too.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Joe_G
I hope you don't learn the hard way like me... I went from ceramics to Hawk HP +, but the HP+ didn't last one event once I started really driving the car. Boiled the fluid, and basically had no brakes. Scary the first time I hit the brakes and had nothing!
I then installed DRM cooling ducts and HP-10 pads, and had no problems at all at Sebring, brakes were awesome.
I wish I'd had listened to the folks in Autocross forum and just skipped trying to use combination track/street pads (HP+) and went straight to the track pads. Would have saved me the cost of one set of ceramics and the HP+'s! Lucky for us our pads are quite easy to change back and forth.
I then installed DRM cooling ducts and HP-10 pads, and had no problems at all at Sebring, brakes were awesome.
I wish I'd had listened to the folks in Autocross forum and just skipped trying to use combination track/street pads (HP+) and went straight to the track pads. Would have saved me the cost of one set of ceramics and the HP+'s! Lucky for us our pads are quite easy to change back and forth.
Anyways. Using the Hawk (I think the Plus) and my Baer Erradispeeds......I experienced excellent braking and no fade at the track (only have 3 days under the my belt). Could be the drilled and slots help in this regard.
I switched recently due to unplaned pad replacement. Thats how I ended up with ceramics in the back and semi metalic in front. I have driven the car hard a few times since bedding and see know stopping issues. Did add Dot 4 fluid.
I will be at the track again end of September and will see if I get fade or not.
DH
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
Likes: 266
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Usually I learn everything the HARD WAY !!!!
Anyways. Using the Hawk (I think the Plus) and my Baer Erradispeeds......I experienced excellent braking and no fade at the track (only have 3 days under the my belt). Could be the drilled and slots help in this regard.
I switched recently due to unplaned pad replacement. Thats how I ended up with ceramics in the back and semi metalic in front. I have driven the car hard a few times since bedding and see know stopping issues. Did add Dot 4 fluid.
I will be at the track again end of September and will see if I get fade or not.
DH
Anyways. Using the Hawk (I think the Plus) and my Baer Erradispeeds......I experienced excellent braking and no fade at the track (only have 3 days under the my belt). Could be the drilled and slots help in this regard.
I switched recently due to unplaned pad replacement. Thats how I ended up with ceramics in the back and semi metalic in front. I have driven the car hard a few times since bedding and see know stopping issues. Did add Dot 4 fluid.
I will be at the track again end of September and will see if I get fade or not.
DH
Please, don't take my word for this, I'm pretty new to this. But I think you'll find I'm correct. Post in the Autocross Section, and check out this thread on brake failure! I was going to use rotors (stock) with spider cracks in them to squeeze one more event out of them, but after reading this thread I realized that my safety is WAY more important than squeezing out another day on $50 worth of rotors!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...re&forum_id=23
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Joe_G
I would NOT use drilled rotors on the track - you are really setting yourself up for catastrophic brake failure when those crack. I understand that it's not IF, but WHEN those drilled rotors crack.
Please, don't take my word for this, I'm pretty new to this. But I think you'll find I'm correct. Post in the Autocross Section, and check out this thread on brake failure! I was going to use rotors (stock) with spider cracks in them to squeeze one more event out of them, but after reading this thread I realized that my safety is WAY more important than squeezing out another day on $50 worth of rotors!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...re&forum_id=23
Please, don't take my word for this, I'm pretty new to this. But I think you'll find I'm correct. Post in the Autocross Section, and check out this thread on brake failure! I was going to use rotors (stock) with spider cracks in them to squeeze one more event out of them, but after reading this thread I realized that my safety is WAY more important than squeezing out another day on $50 worth of rotors!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...re&forum_id=23
I have had a minor crack in one already.....I replaced the rotor ring. It was a minor crack from one of the drilled holes. I did not get worse but I replaced anyways. Have since tracked it again...no problem.
The ceramics are on the back. Most braking is in the front .... semi metalics. Next pads will probably just get Z06.
DH
