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I got my new clutch/flywheel and Z06 slave in. I've had it all apart twice now(went back in for the slave). But the car will not go into gear when running. The clutch pedal feels wayyyy too soft. I've bled it..and bled it and bled it.....still no change.
How far should the slave be moving when the pedal is depressed ? Its moving less than an inch. And it just doesnt look like the pressure plate is coming up off the clutch at all.
I"m stumped gang ...any advice is greatly appreciated.
I have not yet had to do my clutch (knock on wood), but on the brakes if you get air in the master cylinder you need to do a separate bleed on it. Any chance you got air in the master cylinder that hasn't come out? (Just a WAG)
I have not yet had to do my clutch (knock on wood), but on the brakes if you get air in the master cylinder you need to do a separate bleed on it. Any chance you got air in the master cylinder that hasn't come out? (Just a WAG)
I think the coupling between the slave and master closes when disconnected =/ but yea..it just 'feels' like its a bleeding issue...maybe i just haevnt done it enough =/ The only part I havent replaced yet is the master... but the master was still functioning before I started this job...so I cant belive it just decided to quit.
an easy way to check to see if you still have air in the hydraulics is to simply take your hand and pump the **** out of your clutch pedal. Open the reservoir and see if you have small bubbles purcolating to the top. If you do, then you still have air. You may also be surprised to know that you can adequately bleed your system this way .
Talked to my cousin, who is a mechanic..and he thinks its still air in the line. He loaned me a vacum pump to try to pull it from the top. Hasnt worked yet, but he is coming over in a bit confident he can have my car running in 20 minutes. Gotta love family that accepts payment in the form of all the pizza they can eat
I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say, if the master cylinder got air in it during your clutch installation, is there a special bleed procedure on the master cylinder you have to do prior to hooking it up to the system? That is how the brake master cylinder needs to be done, not sure if the clutch is the same.
How have you opened the line on the slave, I heard it was near impossible to get to when installed.
Your shifter could be out of rig...
When you pulled your TQ tube, did you remove the shifter for the shifter mount on the TQ tube and did you loosen the 3 torx screws on the shifter mount that attaches to the TQ tube?
Also, make damn sure the quick disconnect for the slave/master is positivly engaged.
You can bleed the entire hydraulic system at once. Pump the pedal and crack the bleed screw. No need to bleed the master separately. It will take several times to get pedal pressure up though. Also check for leaks around the master, the quick disconnect and the slave. If no leaks and good pedal pressure then take the inspaectio ncover off and check the slave. See if you can see it moving. Let us know what you find out.
when this happened to me on a different car it was the clutch master cylinder, but i think you have air in the lines. have fun trying to get a vacum tool to that bleeder valve...
oh, and the slave's from GM come already bleeded (is that a word? lol) and the quick connect fittings are shut off when disconnected. i didnt even bleed mine after the clutch/slave change
Its running, we did a vacum bleed on the system and it STILL didnt want to go into gear. Did regular bleeding...ALOT and STILL nothing. So we started playing with the pressure plate adjustment and made some progress. It now runs, though my clutch grabs maybe two inches off the floor, my cousin believes that as the clutch breaks in the pedal will start working farther up.
Also, the transmission is resistant to go into gear at times, almost feels 'crunchy'. I just drained/resealed and refilled it with Valvoline high mileage Dex 3 tranny fluid(not synth), perhaps it doesnt like that stuff.. I'm gonna look into getting the GM syncromesh stuff to see if it will smooth out a bit.
One other thing, when moving, I've heard some creaks and clangs from the rear....I'm thinking the suspension is settling after being 'stretched' for a couple of weeks. I've double(qaudrupel) checked everything..and everything seems to be clearing and secure.
thanks for all your advice and support on this project gang !
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18- '19
Master Cylinder
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[MawneeC5]---UPDATE---
Its running, we did a vacum bleed on the system and it STILL didnt want to go into gear. Did regular bleeding...ALOT and STILL nothing. So we started playing with the pressure plate adjustment and made some progress. It now runs, though my clutch grabs maybe two inches off the floor, my cousin believes that as the clutch breaks in the pedal will start working farther up.
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You tried just about everything under the Sun.......replace the master cylinder. I had issues with mine after a new Z06 clutch package. The pedal would grab right off the floor, after driving for awhile the pedal would grab higher. I had the master cylinder replaced and now everything is fine.
I had a similar issue with my Buick. I had the steering rack replaced, every time I turned full left or full right it I would get a shutter in the steering wheel. The repair shop replaced the rack.......same problem, replaced the power steering pump, no more shutter. Good Luck