Yes it helps out in all gears. I have had it in for a couple weeks now. There is a def difference. It is much smoother.
Yes it works well with third party shifters. I just installed a Kirban shifter and it shifts better than ever.
My car is under warranty. If the trans fails, I'll swap the other bolt back in, no big deal.
I am def not a trans expert. I doubt that removing a plug that only seems to affect the shifter while going thru neutral will hurt it. I'm willing to find out.

 

Point is being missed
We tend to jump on buying mods without really getting hard facts or even what long term use of a mod does to what we modify
Paying $60 when it it can be done much better with a washer and that is adjustable by the thickness of the washer.

Best case would be to take the ball bearing off and replacing the spring inside with a lighter one so that neutral still can be felt but with less pressure

Having zero pressure from the detent rod against guide plate only would remove all feel when going through neutral which makes it sloppy and for me you buy a car with a manual transmission because you want to feel the car, else heck buy a A4 trannie.

 

As politely as possible:
You do not know what you are talking about.

The opening post in this thread does not refer to purchasing anything except a washer.

There is no "guide plate" involved.

This mod has NO effect on shifter centering.

I ask kindly that you start a new thread if you want to rant about people who buy a $60 bolt or to save them from damaging their tranny.

 

If you want to pay $60 for a bolt, hell you could have just cut the end of your's off for the price of ZERO.
Don't play GOD when others will not drink the kool-aid.
Just remember to tell the dealer when your in for trannie service about this expensive mod. [/QUOTE]

We're discussing the pros & cons of a mod that some of us are trying! That's it, period. What the hell does God & Koolaid have to do with this mod and why are you compelled to think that since you don't agree with it you find the need to insult me? I'm always willing to listen to other viewpoints and am never afraid to say I might have made a mistake or acted on something incorrectly. That's why I like this Forum. I've learned a lot and sometimes I can actually help others make decisions. I'm not an expert on this topic or many others for that matter, so I always want to hear from those more knowedgable than I. If you have knowledge or experience on the topic at hand then I'm all ears. Judging from what others have said it doesn't sound like you're an expert on it, but I still respect your opinion on the issue. If you want to toss around insults or stupid comments like the Koolaid one then stuff it somewhere and say on the subject at hand! It isn't and shouldn't be personal just because you don't see it the way I do.

 

I didn't do Anti-Venoms mod, so I can't comment on "the bolt". After reading lots of posts I decided to make my own washer... I made it .075 thick. I've only had the car out for 50 or so miles and agree with JTS97Z28 about the affects. Mine seems less notchy as it goes into and out of a given gear, but seems a little vague in the neutral gate. The hardest part of this mod was finding the detent assy to remove. Thanks to the forum members and a few IM's it was a snap to find, remove and install my washer. I had a hurst on my old Z, and used the smallest centering spings, as I thoght the trans has enough "centering" built into it. This mod should work great with the adjustable aftermarket shifters IMHO.

Bob

 

What do you think the detent bolt/bearing presses against, its called a guide plate, you cal it what you want.
Those taking this personal need to look at what is being discussed.

I already stated like 3 times a washer would be the best path but even then people just stating use a washer are not giving all the detail.

Example : the detent bolt is just one inch in length and thats from the bottom of bolt top. The spring loaded ball bearing part moves about 4 mm.

There is only like 6 threads on that bolt head, if too wide of a washer is used then there will be only 3 threads to screw into a aluminum trannie case and could then be forced out of the case due to pressure.

Because the case is aluminum and the out of sight location of the detent bolt it can be real easy to crossthread and ruin the threads in case. When re-installing a sealer for threads is needed.

The loss of neutral gate feel can make it real easy to miss gears when going from shift rail to rail.

So I have spend a lot more time then you think and what a forum is about is all sides sharing the information so others can decide and not some "go do it" when they only had a few days using this mod which only says how it functions in the way that person shifts, what shifter is used and how thick the washer was.

I fail to sign up for the detent designed into the T56 was done for no reason when properly shifting there is no issue with stock detent.

 

Ok, I'm ready to try the washer mod... can someone please summarize the details from the other post and maybe show a pic or two? I THINK I need a washer that is 3/16" thick x 3/4" center hole x WHAT DIAMETER?

Thanks!
Vaughn

 

If you get a flat washer with a 3/4" center, it will be the right outer diameter. About 1 1/2".

When you remove the detent, you can go inside and see immediately how the shift will feel.

A 15/16" or 24mm socket is needed. When you reinstall, start it by hand.

Very easy!

 

Thanks, will try it tomorrow!

 

Ok, here's what I did.

Bought a washer at Ace for $.50. It's a 3/4" x 1.5" by 1/8 (approx.):



Fishing with a 3/8 ratchet w/4" extension and 15/16" socket:



Washer applied (yes I cleaned the dirt off before reinstalling):



Then I hand-started it and tightened it. I got in the car and went through the gears. Initially, I couldn't tell much difference. So I went back down, back it out substantially, and got back in the car. It felt the same as tightened all the way down with the washer, so I felt confident that I had maximized my return on this mod, and tightened everything up. A quick drive around the block, and the gear engaging is noticably smoother. Not a HUGE difference, but worth the $.50 and 10 minutes... Thanks for the info guys!
Vaughn

 

Vaughn,

Do you have a stock shifter?

 

Z06vette.com is back up

http://www.z06vette.com/gallery/data..._jpg_1-med.jpg

A better pic of the detent location. Thanks IVOZ06!

 

Nope, I have a Hurst. I was extremely dissatisfied with the SLOP that was the stock shifter.

I don't know how anyone is expected to locate that bolt with a LIGHT... I couldn't see it without dropping the whole drivetrain. It's easily locatable by feel though.

 

Just curious, have you tried this mod? It really doesn't feel sloppy at all.

 

[FRCTony]If you get a flat washer with a 3/4" center, it will be the right outer diameter. About 1 1/2".
When you remove the detent, you can go inside and see immediately how the shift will feel.
A 15/16" or 24mm socket is needed. When you reinstall, start it by hand.
Very easy!
________________________________________ ____________________

OK...I heard about it, read about it, had to try it.
My Observations
I did the washer method. Not sure how thick it is, but I'm pretty sure the spring loaded ball is not making contact any more. Shifts much, much easier than before. If you have trouble finding neutral, you shouldn't be driving a stick.
MY Only Concern,
Before doing this Mod I could always feel a slight resistance when shifting from any given gear to the next. I'm wondering if the check ball had anything to do with helping the gear stay in gear? Is everyone following me? It doesn't "pop out" of gear, so I'm thinking that if it does help keeping it in gear it is there to make it harder to "accidently" knock it out of gear (reaching for something etc.)
Other than that...........the washer stays

 

Yes, I spent a whole weekend testing it and in the end you either make it slightly less notchy or you have removed the detent function altogether by having the detent plunger too far away.
Sloppy to who, it depends on a lot of factors, type of shifter, method driver uses to shifting, or even different if shifting in stop/go traffic to high RPM shifting and if downshifting when slowing down or just going to neutral.

Why I mention do the shim method and test for your liking but in no way give someone $60 for a short bolt.

Stock shifter is so weak I could never see needing it but for 3rd parth shifters that require more effort for some they might slightly back plunger outwards and test.

 

I just finished spacing the detent bolt and all I can say is "WOW" what a differance . I went down to napa and bought 4 copper washers which came out to be about .200 thick. I reinstalled the bolt and went for a drive.
Before this mod I have never been able to powershift the 2-3 shift, but on my test drive I nailed it on the first try.
I'm now going to try to find a bolt to replace the washers, if I can't find one i'll turn one up on a lathe.
As far as the difficulty to do this, it took me about 20 min. 15/16ths socket and a jack.

 

I don't know if this is too late for this thread...

The Dorman 3/4" washer number 868-017 can be found at most parts stores. Dorman has all those black and orange drawers full of neat bolts, nuts and washers.

I installed the 868-017 washer this weekend and couldn't believe the difference. Notchy? Vague neutral? Nah....smooth as you'd expect it to be! Almost like you wanted it in the first place...

Then I changed the tranny fluid to Amsoil and first and second started shifting smoothly.

Coupled with very light Hurst springs - this tranny is starting to shift like my old Muncie/Hurst combo - with more gears!

Good luck...Bill

 

Bill,
Thanks for the mention.

AMSOIL ATF

 

Don't ask why but change your tranny fluid, this will help.
also we need to sensitive about shifter feel,feeling when your all the way in gear,sometimes it the driver not having it completely in gear,this you can feel. This 6-speed
in the vet is a little picky,