Battery Dying?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh NC
Battery Dying?
My vette isn't a daily driver and with the bad weather last week, its sat for almost a week and a half. Went to start it yesterday, "click", no vrroooom!. Messed around, waited a few seconds, nothing, a few more tries and finally "vrrrooomm!. No problems. Drove to work, drove home in the evening. Thought it might be that the gas was low, so I filled up yesterday morning. Full Tank now.
This morning same thing! Took same amount of "click" and nothing, few tries later, it starts and runs fine.
Is the battery dying? If so what is the best replacement? I've heard the Optima Yellow or Red top?
Thanks,
ED
This morning same thing! Took same amount of "click" and nothing, few tries later, it starts and runs fine.
Is the battery dying? If so what is the best replacement? I've heard the Optima Yellow or Red top?
Thanks,
ED
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
Check the voltage across the battery terminals with the car sitting and again with it running.
If it is less than 11.8-12.2 sitting the battery is not fully charged.
If it is less than 13.8-14.8 when running the alternator is not operating sufficiently to fully recharge the battery.
Take it to an autoparts store. Most can do an on the car electrical system diagnostic check by independently putting the battery and the alternator under load. That can identify if the problem is your battery or the alternator. AutoZone correctly identified my problem as the alternator.
If it is the battery, there are a lot of opinions on replacement strategy ...
They range from:
a) get the cheapest battery you can ( Walmart) since none of them last.
b) get the best warranty you can (Sears Diehard) since none of then last
c) get the best battery you can ( Gel or Gel mat type) becasue they have the best chance of lasting and not leaking
The opinions vary on which brand to buy. AC Delco, Optima ( Redtop) Exide ( Orbital)
Brand comes down to personal choice onc eyou have decided whether to follow strategy a), b)or c)
If it is less than 11.8-12.2 sitting the battery is not fully charged.
If it is less than 13.8-14.8 when running the alternator is not operating sufficiently to fully recharge the battery.
Take it to an autoparts store. Most can do an on the car electrical system diagnostic check by independently putting the battery and the alternator under load. That can identify if the problem is your battery or the alternator. AutoZone correctly identified my problem as the alternator.
If it is the battery, there are a lot of opinions on replacement strategy ...
They range from:
a) get the cheapest battery you can ( Walmart) since none of them last.
b) get the best warranty you can (Sears Diehard) since none of then last
c) get the best battery you can ( Gel or Gel mat type) becasue they have the best chance of lasting and not leaking
The opinions vary on which brand to buy. AC Delco, Optima ( Redtop) Exide ( Orbital)
Brand comes down to personal choice onc eyou have decided whether to follow strategy a), b)or c)
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,917
Likes: 3
From: Southern NH
My 2 cents:
If it was purely a low battery, it would not start. And if it was a marginal low battery I would expect you'd hear :click,click,click as the starter would try to fire. If the battery voltage shows up as normal (even 10.6V on the DIC is enough), then I would suspect it's not the battery.
Since you only here one click, and you have a stick, check the following as these will prevent the starter from firing:
- Clutch is fully in and the switch behind the clutch petal is working. That switch acts as a safety cutoff to the starting system if the clutch is not fully depressed.
- Clean the key and/or ignition keyhole or try another key. If the contacts on the Passkey pellet are dirty, the system may not read the value properly and prevent the started from firing.
- Another possibility is the ignition switch is starting to go. There's a contact switch at the inside end of the keyhole that enables the starting system (and Column Unlock). There have been common reports over time that the ignition switch can have this problem.
If it was purely a low battery, it would not start. And if it was a marginal low battery I would expect you'd hear :click,click,click as the starter would try to fire. If the battery voltage shows up as normal (even 10.6V on the DIC is enough), then I would suspect it's not the battery.
Since you only here one click, and you have a stick, check the following as these will prevent the starter from firing:
- Clutch is fully in and the switch behind the clutch petal is working. That switch acts as a safety cutoff to the starting system if the clutch is not fully depressed.
- Clean the key and/or ignition keyhole or try another key. If the contacts on the Passkey pellet are dirty, the system may not read the value properly and prevent the started from firing.
- Another possibility is the ignition switch is starting to go. There's a contact switch at the inside end of the keyhole that enables the starting system (and Column Unlock). There have been common reports over time that the ignition switch can have this problem.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh NC
Thanks
Good points. I knew if the clutch wasn't down all the way it wouldn't start. I'll check that too. I never know the little terminal on the side of the key would not connect and cause the car to not start. The DIC running this morning read 13.8 to 14.0 most of the time depending on if the lights were on.ed
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs CO.
I sure don't want to derail 82Shark's discussion, but I also may have a battery problem, just not sure. Here's the information ...........
I started watching the DIC voltage display and was a bit surprised. Starting the car and driving normally for the first 15 minutes, the fluctuation was between 12.7 and 14.8, really bouncing around. After 20+ minutes the range narrowed to between 13.1 and 14.3, with excursions to 12.9 and 14.5. Speed or RPM seems to have no effect on the fluctuations, even when stopped at a red light. What has been "normal" in the past is a range of 14.1 - 14.4 with little change and a long duration between changes.
I have an Optima Red Top which went into service in June of 2003. The question is, Do I have an Optima that's going south?
Bruce Miller
2000 C5 MN6 Coupe
68,000 miles
I started watching the DIC voltage display and was a bit surprised. Starting the car and driving normally for the first 15 minutes, the fluctuation was between 12.7 and 14.8, really bouncing around. After 20+ minutes the range narrowed to between 13.1 and 14.3, with excursions to 12.9 and 14.5. Speed or RPM seems to have no effect on the fluctuations, even when stopped at a red light. What has been "normal" in the past is a range of 14.1 - 14.4 with little change and a long duration between changes.
I have an Optima Red Top which went into service in June of 2003. The question is, Do I have an Optima that's going south?
Bruce Miller
2000 C5 MN6 Coupe
68,000 miles
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,308
Likes: 1
From: The Beautiful Greater Bay Area California
Originally Posted by JC in XTC5
My 2 cents:
If it was purely a low battery, it would not start. And if it was a marginal low battery I would expect you'd hear :click,click,click as the starter would try to fire. If the battery voltage shows up as normal (even 10.6V on the DIC is enough), then I would suspect it's not the battery.
Since you only here one click, and you have a stick, check the following as these will prevent the starter from firing:
- Clutch is fully in and the switch behind the clutch petal is working. That switch acts as a safety cutoff to the starting system if the clutch is not fully depressed.
- Clean the key and/or ignition keyhole or try another key. If the
contacts on the Passkey pellet are dirty, the system may not read the value properly and prevent the started from firing.
- Another possibility is the ignition switch is starting to go. There's a contact switch at the inside end of the keyhole that enables the starting system (and Column Unlock). There have been common reports over time that the ignition switch can have this problem.
If it was purely a low battery, it would not start. And if it was a marginal low battery I would expect you'd hear :click,click,click as the starter would try to fire. If the battery voltage shows up as normal (even 10.6V on the DIC is enough), then I would suspect it's not the battery.
Since you only here one click, and you have a stick, check the following as these will prevent the starter from firing:
- Clutch is fully in and the switch behind the clutch petal is working. That switch acts as a safety cutoff to the starting system if the clutch is not fully depressed.
- Clean the key and/or ignition keyhole or try another key. If the
contacts on the Passkey pellet are dirty, the system may not read the value properly and prevent the started from firing.
- Another possibility is the ignition switch is starting to go. There's a contact switch at the inside end of the keyhole that enables the starting system (and Column Unlock). There have been common reports over time that the ignition switch can have this problem.
Check all grounds, terminals, alts, AND, the ignition switch. The ignition switch is often the culprit to a lot of electrical and battery related gremlins. Good luck to all.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The logical place to start is the battery terminals! clean the terminals and battery post/terminals. TIGHTEN TERMINAL BOLTS to 11 ft/lbs.
The next place to start is the slutch sahety switch! They are known bad switches and the terminals in them corrode BAD!
If it does it again,, without releasing the ignition switch,,,,lightly let up on the clutch peddel and then press it down again. If the switch is the problem, that will usually do the trick. If the switch is going bad, replace it before it strands you!!!!
The next thing that can give you those symptoms is a faulty Theft Deterrent relay. It to is in the same electrical safety circuit that the clutch safety switch is in. The relay is located in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the fire wall.
my guess is, you either have loose battery cables or a bad clutch switch.
Oh by the way,,, you can open and clean the contacts in that switch!
Bill C
The next place to start is the slutch sahety switch! They are known bad switches and the terminals in them corrode BAD!
If it does it again,, without releasing the ignition switch,,,,lightly let up on the clutch peddel and then press it down again. If the switch is the problem, that will usually do the trick. If the switch is going bad, replace it before it strands you!!!!
The next thing that can give you those symptoms is a faulty Theft Deterrent relay. It to is in the same electrical safety circuit that the clutch safety switch is in. The relay is located in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the fire wall.
my guess is, you either have loose battery cables or a bad clutch switch.
Oh by the way,,, you can open and clean the contacts in that switch!
Bill C
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 789
Likes: 0
From: Reinholds PA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by 82shark
G I knew if the clutch wasn't down all the way it wouldn't start. I'll check that too. I never know the little terminal on the side of the key would not connect and cause the car to not start. ed
Been there, done that :o
