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Check engine light on with codes

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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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Default Check engine light on with codes

Got a check engine light and can't find anything ovbiously wrong (exhaust leak, gas cap)

I checked the codes and got these

10 PCM - P1416 H C - AIR System bank 2-B
60 IPC - B0516 H - Speedometer Signal Circuit Malfunction
60 IPC - U1160 H - Loss of Communications with LDCM
A0 LDCM B2282 H - Battery #1 Fault DCM-LEFT
A0 LDCM B2284 H - Battery #2 Fault DCM-LEFT
A1 RDCM B2283 H - Battery #1 Fault DCM-RIGHT
A1 RDCM B2285 H - Battery #2 Fault DCM-RIGHT
A6 SCM No Comm
B0 RFA C2100 H C - Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction -TPM
B0 RFA C2105 H - Right Front TPM Sensor Malfunction -TPM
B0 RFA C2110 H C - Right Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction -TPM
B0 RFA C2115 H C - Left Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction -TPM
B0 RFA U1255 H - Serial Data Line Malfunction -RFA

what the heck is going on with my car

Last edited by Lancer033; Oct 15, 2005 at 09:56 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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your pcm code is the only one that is causing the check engine light. (possibly the IPC codes) I wouldn't worry about the L&R door control modules, the seat control module, or your tire pressures codes right now.

check you AIR tube that runs behind the intake to each side of your headers/manifold. they bolt together by the exhaust manifolds/headers and your gasket may be shot or the bolts have come loose.
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 10:16 AM
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ahh, SCM is seat control module - my sparco seat would explain that and I don't have sensors on the car, so that would explain those codes. I'll deal with the DCM later.

off to check the air tube

thanks
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 10:38 AM
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There is a check valve behind the intake manifold that looks like the one next to the left exhaust manifold, it's probably corroded and plugged up but you can get a new one at the dealership for around $20.
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by FFR-Z06
There is a check valve behind the intake manifold that looks like the one next to the left exhaust manifold, it's probably corroded and plugged up but you can get a new one at the dealership for around $20.
Yep,, the check valve gets dirty and sticks shut. Changing the one on the drivers side is a snap! Getting to the one behind the manifold is BITCH! I recommended this to a couple other Forum members and it worked for them.

Remove the rubber hose that goes to that check valve, spray a good shot of Carb cleaner in there and blast it through with some compressed air and then spray in a good shot of WD-40, hook everything back up and see if that helps.

Beats disassembling all that stuff!

Let me know how you make out.

BC
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Remove the rubber hose that goes to that check valve, spray a good shot of Carb cleaner in there and blast it through with some compressed air and then spray in a good shot of WD-40, hook everything back up and see if that helps.

BC
I would not trust WD-40 as to what it might do to the O2s.

If you have a air compressor you can take the hose off the right exhaust manifold and also where it Tees off from the left side of head and with air test to see if air goes from left to right but not right to left.
This also would pinpoint if the hose is leaking and check the gasket where AIR bolts to exhaust.

Problem is it might not be the checkvalve but instead is the front and rear O2s for that side are not working correctly and the short term fuel trim for that side then does not go to a sudden lean condition when AIR pump goes on.
Before ripping the valve out if you have a PCM scanner on a cold start watch what the right O2s and STFT report to know if its the valve or the O2s as the problem
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 12:28 AM
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Well, for what it's worth, out here in Iowa we had a couple pretty cold mornings and the tire pressure had dropped down below the sensor range tolerance setting (26#).

So I went out and pumped the four tires back up to 30#, plus a couple, just in case it got even colder.

Today, the temps were in the mid 80's and like you, I got an SES warning with the code that all 4 TPS had failed.

I found out that after having run the vette a while on the interstate, the tire pressure had exceeded 36# and kicked the sensor into default error mode, triggering an SES warning.

Let 4 pounds of air out of the tires solved the problem.
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