I agree great thread, I wish I found this thread before I spent $80 and replaced the door lock actuator. Mine is intermittant, not totally dead though, so I gaurentee is the module. I'll take out the module and order the part at work tomorow.

 

This one is a keeper...printing it now

 

Problem: Passenger side locks and windows would not work. I can not remember if they went over time or all at once, but think it was all at once. I could press the buttons and hear the relays click each time, but nothing would happen.

I tried all other solutions ( door banging, etc. ) without sucess. Of course, I did not replace the module.

Here is what I did. I removed the door panels//

Let me stop here and ask if any knows where to get replacement plastic parts that go behind the door pulls. This is the little long plastic part that hides the Torex screws. I have lost one and broken another.

// as per many instruction on the site. After disconnecting the door module from the wiring harness ( take picture first so you know what goes where when re-installing it ), open up the plastic box of the module and remove the PCB ( circuit board ). At this point, I recommend not dropping the PCB as several of the component on the PCB are sensative to shock.

There are four relays on the PCB. Three are the same ( Aromat or NAIS JSM1E-12V-5 ) (digikey.com) and one is an NEC EP2-3N1S (mouser.com). They basically form an L shape with the three NAIS relays in a row and the NEC part as the foot. Per others on this post, the last two relay ( not next to the NEC / foot ) are for the door locks. I am guessing the other two ( one NAIS and one NEC ) are for the Window, but I am not sure.

Can any one confirm which relays are for the windows?

I replaced the two door lock relays. The PCB is covered in a conformal coating to help it survive high humidity and such. Do not go nuts on trying on tryign to remove this. Use a sharp knife to cut around the part and then cut near each solder pin on the other side of the PCB. If you have a relay to look at, you can easily figure out which pin goes where, so you can only focus on the pins you need.

Desoldering was not too bad, but I am an elelctrical engineer and have some prior experiance. Multi-pin parts can be difficult, I give you that. A hot iron ( pass on the crap from Radio Shack ) and a thin width (1/8") solder wick can do it ( if you get wider it is harder to work with in tight spaces on the PCB, both Mouser and Digikey care solder wick ). Solder wick take some practive and you need to do it a couple of times, but with skill it takes about 5 minutes for each relay. A Solder sucker tool also helps.
** Be very careful not to desolder the little surface mount components on the underside of the PCB. Also, avoid touching your iron to these parts, as some are not designed to withstand long exposure to soldering irons. It is not that sensative, but be careful.

Once the relays are replaced, put the PCB back in the module and re-install everything.

While I only replaced the door lock relays, my power window also started to work ( bonus ). While this may only be temporary, I got lazy and sealed it all back up.

Good Luck.

 

I used the JSM1-12V-5 relays and now my door locks work great. I would highly recommend on ordering a desoldering iron from radio shack for about $10. Without that it is a real pain. I also just put a little clear silicone calk over the connections I soldered to protect them from corrosion.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062731

 

I have 5 spare relays... bought 6, but my problem ( after I soldered and desolderd was not the relay but the circuit board...

If you need a how to follow this link
http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm

 

Sir,

Thank you very much for the great website. You are have done a great service and saved me $500 (what the dealer wanted.) Thank you.

V/R
Steve

 

I am having the same problem with my passanger door lock,, thanks for the info,,

 

Iwould like to thank everyone for all the info. Just ordered 6 relays so i can do both doors if needed. Dosen't sound like to bad of a job. I have already re soldered the resistors in the climate control. Thanks Again

 

Great thread and good info. One thing I didn't see was what pins to desolder. I suppose the people with prior knowledge already know, but inquiring minds................

So here is what I think:



Do all these need to be desoldered to remove the relay? Or which ones?

 

I just did mines tonight. Yes those are correct desoldering points. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the help.


I have the good fortune to not only fix this, but also the window won't work, the valve springs are bad, and I have to pull the tranny to fix first gear that won't engage unless stopped. At least I have a nice four post lift to help my old a$$.

jim

 

WellI got the relays changed and fixed the door locks. I wish I'd known that the other relay was the window down, because the window doesn't down. But it was easy to tear apart and change relays so that will be next week.

jim

 

Would like to see the pictures several provided, but all I get is a little box with a red "X" in it....

 

Alan,

Do you have any photos showing where to cut into the relay? Since I am not great at de-soldering, I wanted to try this fix before I take the DCM into an electrical shop and have them put a new relay in. My unlock on the passenger side quit working altogether, and after taking the DCM off the door and unplugging and then replugging, it started to work again, so I feel confident that burn marks are causing the problem.

 

Would it be possible to get the pictures previously posted on this thread. My passenger door lock will unlock with the fob but will not lock.

Thanks
Rick

 

I'm going to tear into the DCM again, and replace the last module, which I have in my hand, same as the other ones I replaced Hopefully it will fix the window but if not at least I'll know what to do. I'll document it as I go.

jim

 

My 01Z is doing the same thing,pics would be nice.Just xs in previous posts.

 

this tread is complete diy with pics http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#DCM

 

Thanks feeder .Thats a good write-up and pictures.Going to save it for a winter project

 

rons pics is now a porno site I guess ron didn't pay his web site bill,it flipped on jan 1, anyone have the pics