ronnie948

My air conditioning is cold on the drivers and center vent, The air is Hot coming out of the passenger vent. The control **** for passenger comfort does nothing. If I turn it to the blue Cold the air still stays hot.
My 99HVAC codes are:
U 1160 H
B 0363 H
B 0367 H
B 0446 H
they are all reading H.
As some of You that read my post on my dealer power window repair cost me $1.386.00 because the mechinic does not know what He is doing and just replaces everything at any cost until the problem is fixed.I call it (TRY & ERROR )
If anyone has been through this please let me know what part needs replacing so I don't have to pay for 6 diffrent things I do not need.
We only have the one dealer here in Daytona and He calls his self A large Corvette Dealer.

FinaVette

I am going through the same thing right now, I have had the car in once and they said it was from turning the **** too quickly. Evidently there is a GM bulletin on the problem. However, the next day the problem happened again even after I slowly turned the ****. I am taking it back tomorrow, let you know of the result...

Bill Curlee

There is a fuse that you can pull to get the air door to re-calibrate it self. The easiest thing to do is disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for a few minutes and then re-connect it.

See if that does it. While the battery is disconnected, clean the terminals and torque it back on to 11 ft/lbs.

Hope that does the trick for you.

BC

NYYankee1

I was just curious to see if this fixed either of the problems mentioned above? I am having the EXACT same problem now...

Pulled the 2 fuses mentioned in another post (haven't tried the battery thing... but will) and now the a/c on the passenger's side blows a little cooler (before it was heater-hot... now it's outside-air-temp) but still not nearly as cold as the driver's side.

Also, before pulling the fuses, I had no codes on the DIC. After pulling the fuses, I have B0446 H&C? (Which indicates the Right Actuator is out of range).

Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if I do need to replace the actuator?

Thanks for any help!
Tanya

Dave00C5

Reset the door and all might be well.

NYYankee1

Great! I'll give that a try tonight.

Thanks again!

Dave00C5

I've had this happen, i'd try a few battery disconnects to try to reset the door properly before spending money on a actuator. Mine has been fine for over 3 years after the reset. Good Luck.

MikeP

What number fuse do we pull to reset the Havc doors? Are these fuse's located @ the fuse panel adjacent to the battery? If you can give a number I'll look them up in the manual.

Thanks

M ike

bobc997615

I went to the DIC & cleared the codes with the IPC, my actuators would cycle (in calibration mode?) and you can see if the codes reset without having to pull the fuses.

If pulling fuses, I would pull #27("HVAC" in cover listing)first. You can check inside the fuse box cover (passenger footwell) for the fuse# listing.

If you pull #18?("HVAC" in cover listing), it wipes out your memory settings (if you have that option) & key FOB lock/unlock. You'll have to reset you key fobs by holding the lock & unlock buttons down until the horn beeps.

On my 99 vert, the LH actuator was stuck/seized. The hub that drives the ventilation door is "pressed" into the output gear in the actuator. That gear was "split" causing the binding & lack of appropriate calibration travel.

If you need to replace the LH actuator, I have an "easier" method to replace the little beast than what the service manual explains.

boost2much

Can you tell me the easier method to replace the LH actuator. I think I need to replace mine.

Mikeceli

bobc997615

Dual Zone LH Actuator Replacement

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Changed my LH actuator in my 99 vert, I used a different procedure from the GM service manual. I did not remove the instrument cluster & dash pad.

I went underneath from the driver side footwell, moved drivers seat all the way back.

1) remove the upper footwell trim panel, (2) push-in barb connectors and a stupid steel push nut on a steel post holds in in place, remove the footwell light from panel. The knee bolster can stay in place

2) remove the (2) screws that hold the Bose Amp and lower to floor

3) with a light, looking up into the dash, about where the ignition switch should be, you can see the air muffler for the air cabin air temp sensor (1 1/2" dia x 2" long, surrounded in nasty/oily foam! ). Just to the left of that is the LH actuator. You have to remove the muffler to gain access to the actuator attachemnt screws.

4) remove the air muffler from the plastic ductwork (wiggle & pull apart)

5) remove (2) screws that hold the LH actuator to the heater case, it's a 7/32" hex (if I remember right)

6) slide actuator off control shaft.

7) remove connector

8) reach up & rotate control shaft just to make sure it's free to move

9) slide out from under dash/footwell to catch your breath! (I slid out about a dozen times to grab various tools)

10) have a beer

Reverse procedure to assemble.

Took about 1 hour.

My LH actuator, after further disassembly, had a cracked/split output gear. The actuator hub is press fit into this nylon gear. This bound up the geartrain preventing end-to-end calibration.

The little buggers (actuators retail) cost about $180. I bought a complete set of actuators & vacuum pulls off Ebay for $40. BTW, the LH & RH actuators are the same.

It's not fun going under there, but it was alot less trouble for me than removing the dash pad, gage cluster, console & center bezel.

NYYankee1

I just wanted to thank everyone for the responses to this thread! This forum and the members are the best!!

After following all of the reset procedures, my AC on the passenger side is no longer blowing hot... but it's not quite AC-cold, either. I'm going to try to recharge the system this weekend and see if that does the trick.

In the meantime...at least the air's not hot any longer!!

Thanks again to all!
Tanya

AFBombdude

Did you do the battery reset or the fuses stated above? Thanks!

NYYankee1

Actually, I did both!

The fuses were #'s 18 and 27 (inside the car - under the panel in the passenger side footwell). I tried pulling the fuses first (don't think that matters any... it's just what I tried first).

Good luck!
Tanya

bobc997615

Before I replaced the LH actuator, the actuator would reset & stick in a different position. Codes 0363 * 0441 would still be set in the DIC. That would cause a change in the output temp but turning the temp **** would not change air temp output once it "stuck".

AFBombdude

LH actuator, here I come.

bobc997615,
The split gear wasn't repairable with an adhesive?

bobc997615

Let's put it this way. The white "nylon" output gear is about 1 1/8" in diameter. The "split" at the gear created a gap of about 1/16" at the tooth pitch diameter . I would hate to try to glue the split back together, press the aluminum hub back in, reinstall the actuator, then have in break at a later time and have to go back under the dash to replace it again

I should have taken a picture of the split gear before I chucked the actuator assembly.

AFBombdude

You don't happen to have the part number from the actuator do ya? I am trying to order one.

bobc997615

CJ2 (Dual Zone Climate Control)

PN 1613982

$82.73 + shipping from GM PARTS DIRECT but check other vendors.