:
Engine removal? After countless internet searches....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,416
Likes: 0
From: Isla Darwin
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'08, '14
GATORS Chomp OU 4 St. Jude '09
Engine removal? After countless internet searches....
......still can't find it.
A friend of mine is removing his LS1 out of his 97. Engine is broke down, engine mounts are disconnected from block, torque tube is diconnected.
What is the next step to obtain the proper clearance between engine and torque tube to remove the engine?
My guess is the torque tube needs to come out
A friend of mine is removing his LS1 out of his 97. Engine is broke down, engine mounts are disconnected from block, torque tube is diconnected.
What is the next step to obtain the proper clearance between engine and torque tube to remove the engine?
My guess is the torque tube needs to come out
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
There has been other threads on this recently. May want to search or scan back a few days.
Sounds like you are going out through the top. I prefer to drop it but I use a lift so it's easier that way. I just ondo the whole cradle with the engine on it, disconnect everything and the torque tube, lower the engine and slide forward a little, then just raise the car.
If you are going through the top, after unbolting the torque tube, you have to either unbolt the motor mounts from the engine or loosen and lower the cradle with the lower motor mount bolts off. Assuming you have the radiator and fan out of the car and everything disconnected (you can slide the engine forward and remove the wiring harness and grounds from the back of the head and the bellhousing along with the Cam sensor, map sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor and Vacuum line to the brake booster) you still have to slide the engine forward quite a bit as you raise it. The shaft from the torque tube is probably 6-8 or so inches long. You need to clear it of course. The torque tube can flex up and down a bit but don't put too much pressure ont he shaft.
Also, the A/C pump is going to be a hassle either way. You can unbolt it and tie it up out of the way I'll also assume you already removed the starter, exhaust, all wiring, waterpump (more clearance), alternator and bracket, etc. The more you remove the easier it is to get sometimes.
There are tricks to it that you will learn for the next time!
ps: You do not need to remove the torque tube. And don't forget the sensor below the starter. It's a PITA.
Sounds like you are going out through the top. I prefer to drop it but I use a lift so it's easier that way. I just ondo the whole cradle with the engine on it, disconnect everything and the torque tube, lower the engine and slide forward a little, then just raise the car.
If you are going through the top, after unbolting the torque tube, you have to either unbolt the motor mounts from the engine or loosen and lower the cradle with the lower motor mount bolts off. Assuming you have the radiator and fan out of the car and everything disconnected (you can slide the engine forward and remove the wiring harness and grounds from the back of the head and the bellhousing along with the Cam sensor, map sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor and Vacuum line to the brake booster) you still have to slide the engine forward quite a bit as you raise it. The shaft from the torque tube is probably 6-8 or so inches long. You need to clear it of course. The torque tube can flex up and down a bit but don't put too much pressure ont he shaft.
Also, the A/C pump is going to be a hassle either way. You can unbolt it and tie it up out of the way I'll also assume you already removed the starter, exhaust, all wiring, waterpump (more clearance), alternator and bracket, etc. The more you remove the easier it is to get sometimes.
There are tricks to it that you will learn for the next time!
ps: You do not need to remove the torque tube. And don't forget the sensor below the starter. It's a PITA.
Last edited by 78Vette-SA; Nov 19, 2005 at 08:12 AM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Newark California
Originally Posted by RotorHead
......still can't find it.
A friend of mine is removing his LS1 out of his 97. Engine is broke down, engine mounts are disconnected from block, torque tube is diconnected.
What is the next step to obtain the proper clearance between engine and torque tube to remove the engine?
My guess is the torque tube needs to come out
A friend of mine is removing his LS1 out of his 97. Engine is broke down, engine mounts are disconnected from block, torque tube is diconnected.
What is the next step to obtain the proper clearance between engine and torque tube to remove the engine?
My guess is the torque tube needs to come out
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 0
From: Central TX
i just pulled my motor Sat
i removed hood, radiator, power steering assembly, disconnected AC comp and left it loose, water pump, starter, clutch line, altenator, etc...
i unbolted tie rods and rack & pinion and moved it forward, to help with the crank pulley clearance
put car in the air and undo one end of the shock
unbolt the aluminum subframe from the main frame
lower the subframe as much as you can, the more the better
undo the bolts from the torque tube to the bell housing
remove bolts to motor mounts
hook up chain, pull forward off the spline, and yank her out
the most time consuming portion is removing all of accessories
once you pass that, it is actually easy to remove the engine from above
now stabbing it back will be another story
i removed hood, radiator, power steering assembly, disconnected AC comp and left it loose, water pump, starter, clutch line, altenator, etc...
i unbolted tie rods and rack & pinion and moved it forward, to help with the crank pulley clearance
put car in the air and undo one end of the shock
unbolt the aluminum subframe from the main frame
lower the subframe as much as you can, the more the better
undo the bolts from the torque tube to the bell housing
remove bolts to motor mounts
hook up chain, pull forward off the spline, and yank her out
the most time consuming portion is removing all of accessories
once you pass that, it is actually easy to remove the engine from above
now stabbing it back will be another story
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Michael S. Palmer
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 13,550
Likes: 6
From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by jfrc
i just pulled my motor Sat
i removed hood, radiator, power steering assembly, disconnected AC comp and left it loose, water pump, starter, clutch line, altenator, etc...
i unbolted tie rods and rack & pinion and moved it forward, to help with the crank pulley clearance
put car in the air and undo one end of the shock
unbolt the aluminum subframe from the main frame
lower the subframe as much as you can, the more the better
undo the bolts from the torque tube to the bell housing
remove bolts to motor mounts
hook up chain, pull forward off the spline, and yank her out
the most time consuming portion is removing all of accessories
once you pass that, it is actually easy to remove the engine from above
now stabbing it back will be another story
i removed hood, radiator, power steering assembly, disconnected AC comp and left it loose, water pump, starter, clutch line, altenator, etc...
i unbolted tie rods and rack & pinion and moved it forward, to help with the crank pulley clearance
put car in the air and undo one end of the shock
unbolt the aluminum subframe from the main frame
lower the subframe as much as you can, the more the better
undo the bolts from the torque tube to the bell housing
remove bolts to motor mounts
hook up chain, pull forward off the spline, and yank her out
the most time consuming portion is removing all of accessories
once you pass that, it is actually easy to remove the engine from above
now stabbing it back will be another story
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 1
From: V town california
Originally Posted by TheLaserShop
You have to drop the front suspension cradle so then motor can move forward. You must loosen the clamp (torque tube spline) inside the inspection hole below the front bellhousing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,966
Likes: 22
From: Frederick Maryland
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,416
Likes: 0
From: Isla Darwin
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'08, '14
GATORS Chomp OU 4 St. Jude '09
Originally Posted by ragtopws6
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Wa
Originally Posted by jfrc
as soon as turkey day passes, i'll start getting stuff to the machine shop
the sooner i get it back the better, before i start to forget stuff
the sooner i get it back the better, before i start to forget stuff
Any updates/ troubles? I am in the process of removing all accessories taking tons o pics and writing a novel in the process...
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,308
Likes: 1
From: The Beautiful Greater Bay Area California
Originally Posted by jfrc
i just pulled my motor Sat
i removed hood, radiator, power steering assembly, disconnected AC comp and left it loose, water pump, starter, clutch line, altenator, etc...
i unbolted tie rods and rack & pinion and moved it forward, to help with the crank pulley clearance
put car in the air and undo one end of the shock
unbolt the aluminum subframe from the main frame
lower the subframe as much as you can, the more the better
undo the bolts from the torque tube to the bell housing
remove bolts to motor mounts
hook up chain, pull forward off the spline, and yank her out
the most time consuming portion is removing all of accessories
once you pass that, it is actually easy to remove the engine from above
now stabbing it back will be another story
i removed hood, radiator, power steering assembly, disconnected AC comp and left it loose, water pump, starter, clutch line, altenator, etc...
i unbolted tie rods and rack & pinion and moved it forward, to help with the crank pulley clearance
put car in the air and undo one end of the shock
unbolt the aluminum subframe from the main frame
lower the subframe as much as you can, the more the better
undo the bolts from the torque tube to the bell housing
remove bolts to motor mounts
hook up chain, pull forward off the spline, and yank her out
the most time consuming portion is removing all of accessories
once you pass that, it is actually easy to remove the engine from above
now stabbing it back will be another story
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,421
Likes: 3
From: Memphis Tn
Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA
There has been other threads on this recently. May want to search or scan back a few days.
Sounds like you are going out through the top. I prefer to drop it but I use a lift so it's easier that way. I just ondo the whole cradle with the engine on it, disconnect everything and the torque tube, lower the engine and slide forward a little, then just raise the car.
If you are going through the top, after unbolting the torque tube, you have to either unbolt the motor mounts from the engine or loosen and lower the cradle with the lower motor mount bolts off. Assuming you have the radiator and fan out of the car and everything disconnected (you can slide the engine forward and remove the wiring harness and grounds from the back of the head and the bellhousing along with the Cam sensor, map sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor and Vacuum line to the brake booster) you still have to slide the engine forward quite a bit as you raise it. The shaft from the torque tube is probably 6-8 or so inches long. You need to clear it of course. The torque tube can flex up and down a bit but don't put too much pressure ont he shaft.
Also, the A/C pump is going to be a hassle either way. You can unbolt it and tie it up out of the way I'll also assume you already removed the starter, exhaust, all wiring, waterpump (more clearance), alternator and bracket, etc. The more you remove the easier it is to get sometimes.
There are tricks to it that you will learn for the next time!
ps: You do not need to remove the torque tube. And don't forget the sensor below the starter. It's a PITA.
Sounds like you are going out through the top. I prefer to drop it but I use a lift so it's easier that way. I just ondo the whole cradle with the engine on it, disconnect everything and the torque tube, lower the engine and slide forward a little, then just raise the car.
If you are going through the top, after unbolting the torque tube, you have to either unbolt the motor mounts from the engine or loosen and lower the cradle with the lower motor mount bolts off. Assuming you have the radiator and fan out of the car and everything disconnected (you can slide the engine forward and remove the wiring harness and grounds from the back of the head and the bellhousing along with the Cam sensor, map sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor and Vacuum line to the brake booster) you still have to slide the engine forward quite a bit as you raise it. The shaft from the torque tube is probably 6-8 or so inches long. You need to clear it of course. The torque tube can flex up and down a bit but don't put too much pressure ont he shaft.
Also, the A/C pump is going to be a hassle either way. You can unbolt it and tie it up out of the way I'll also assume you already removed the starter, exhaust, all wiring, waterpump (more clearance), alternator and bracket, etc. The more you remove the easier it is to get sometimes.
There are tricks to it that you will learn for the next time!
ps: You do not need to remove the torque tube. And don't forget the sensor below the starter. It's a PITA.
He's right on! I did not have to remove my radiator, and the engine still slipped right out. I removed the torque tube plate to give the tube room to drop a little to negotiate the engine out but you don't have to remove the tube. The hardest part was clearing the intake at the firewall. Playing with a jack under the tranny to find the right angle for the picker is all that is needed. Remove all accessories including starter and bungy them out of the way. It was nice process.
