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Your gearing will be the deciding factor on what cam you put in there. Pick the gear first, then grind your cam. That cam would be better for the 3.90 gears. Drop it down to a 112 lsa if you stick with the 3.42 gears.
Rick
You only said the cam was a 114. If its a 114 +2 then you get alittle more cylinder pressure, but less up top. The reason you want the tighter LSA with 3.42's is because you need more TQ to push through that gear. If you have the 3.90, then you need a longer power band. Hope this helps.
sorry its a 112 not a 114 your right its hard to keep the car from bogging out of the hole of bfgs and a 5200rpm launch so may be 112 -2? I guess I dont undersatand the diff in this # and what it does.
sorry its a 112 not a 114 your right its hard to keep the car from bogging out of the hole of bfgs and a 5200rpm launch so may be 112 -2? I guess I dont undersatand the diff in this # and what it does.
**** wrong specs here are the new ones:
SI5 231 237 .589 .595 112
I would stay away from anything larger than 230ish duration. It becomes un needed. I havent seen many people make any difference in numbers with the big internet cams. They actually loose TQ.
If you get a 112 lsa cam, just get one without advance in it. 112+0
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Rick,
I'm currently running 234/240 598/608 on a 114+0LSA and with my 3.90 gears and SS3600 stall it screams. I love it. I'm surprised that you think anything above a 230 is "too big"
I'm currently running 234/240 598/608 on a 114+0LSA and with my 3.90 gears and SS3600 stall it screams. I love it. I'm surprised that you think anything above a 230 is "too big"
Please explain
Stephen
If you look at your setup versus his setup, you will find the comparison not even close.
You dont have to worry about any power or drivability issues below your stall speed. Then on top you have gears. So for you, this comparison would not work. Take that same cam and tell me how fun it would be in a stick car with stock gears. I think you would change the cam real fast once you find you cant get out of the RPM band that quick..
I would stay away from anything larger than 230ish duration. It becomes un needed. I havent seen many people make any difference in numbers with the big internet cams. They actually loose TQ.
If you get a 112 lsa cam, just get one without advance in it. 112+0
Rick
I had thetiming gear machined so I could advance/ retard it, do you still think this is ok for my set up or would you recomend another?
I would stay away from anything larger than 230ish duration. It becomes un needed. I havent seen many people make any difference in numbers with the big internet cams. They actually loose TQ.
If you get a 112 lsa cam, just get one without advance in it. 112+0
Rick
Thanks Rick for confirmation.
I run a 230/236 112 XE-R .598/.610 cam with an M6, A&A Stage 2 heads (11.2:1), FAST LSX and LS2 TB and all the bolt ons. I runs great and I can even drive it in rush hour DC traffic. That's bumper to bumper at 4-5 MPH. I also have a speed density tune by PHIL97SVT. I don't think I'd run a cam this large without the SD tuning for the type of driving that I can get caught in. No dyno numbers but the car screams and idles at 825 RPM. I also don't have to spin it unreasonable high to make great power. Rev limited is set to 6600RPM.