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I am interested in doing a 383 stroker- I know these projects can get expensive with running into extra things, so to those that have done it, what all should I expect to run into beyond the pistons, rods, and crank? What kind of power are guys making with 383's? Thanks
Look towards the upper r.h. corner of this page, you will see "Search". You can search the forums with this (they even have an advanced search). I bet you can find tons of info on "383 stroker". The latest hot rod mag has a write up tha shows for around $4k, you can get 500 hp out of an LS1
Chris and Doug at ECS are building a 383 stroker for my '04 C5. They said it would be ready in two weeks so I will post my hp and tq numbers once completed. There are many factors that contribute to final performance numbers, i.e., heads, cam, etc. My setup is conservative because I plan to run it on the track during HPDE sessions approx. 6 times a year while being a daily driver. I hope to see 450+ RWHP with a high and flat torque curve.
Last edited by Gray Ghost GS; Nov 29, 2005 at 06:25 AM.
I am interested in doing a 383 stroker- I know these projects can get expensive with running into extra things, so to those that have done it, what all should I expect to run into beyond the pistons, rods, and crank? What kind of power are guys making with 383's? Thanks
Randy
Have you looked into the ls2 402 stroker? i got mine from SDPC for about $4,000. i feel it was a better deal then taking my ls1 and rebuilding it for around the same cost. plus you can sell your old block afterwards. i am putting out 450 rwhp and 470 rwtq with a very small cam (226/226 112) that is smog legal and some old heads from my ls1 . i feel once i change out my old heads i will be around 475 rwhp and 490 rwtq. good luck with your choice
I already have AFR 205 Heads and a G5X3 cam making 430rwhp- was hoping to be able to break 500rwhp, or get close with a 383. I did do a cursory search I swear! I couldnt find much info from the C5 guys.
I priced the Eagle Crank, rods, and pistons at just under $2500, and my mechanic said he would do all the work for $1K, so I think $3500 would be a great price for the power, but I also need to know what else is going to be needed (Oil pump, fuel, etc). I may make this my mecahics' winter project while I am in Germany for Christmas
I already have AFR 205 Heads and a G5X3 cam making 430rwhp- was hoping to be able to break 500rwhp, or get close with a 383. I did do a cursory search I swear! I couldnt find much info from the C5 guys.
I priced the Eagle Crank, rods, and pistons at just under $2500, and my mechanic said he would do all the work for $1K, so I think $3500 would be a great price for the power, but I also need to know what else is going to be needed (Oil pump, fuel, etc). I may make this my mecahics' winter project while I am in Germany for Christmas
Wow thats a great deal if he can pull your motor out and rebalance the new parts and put it back in. Most shops charge 1500 just to R&R the block.
well he's a friend of mine, and he has a small shop- last week he only charged me $1K to pull and replace my Heads, Cam, Clutch, and Rear diff he does good work too
my 383 made 490 rwhp and 460 rwt with Patriot 59cc heads and a 231/237 112lsa cam. I did use a ported oil pump and doulble roller timing chain. Jerry BTW, 1 7/8" headers killed the low end torque by as much as 37 ft lb. I had to put my 1 3/4" back on with the Dr. Gas X pipe
I know, but I would use my existing AFR heads and G5X3 cam...
Are they the 205's? They will work well with a 383. If you have your mechanic just do the pistons, rods and crank, that would be the cheapest way! However, he needs to make sure he balances that crank before he installs it. But it sounds like hes compitent and probably knows what he needs to do.
I will look into both options- I really wanted to budget this project at $3500, and the 402 would put it over $5K...
I'd get the 402 and put a bigger cam in it. Couple that with a good speed density tuning and you will have one bad motor scooter.
I believe that price is without core, so it would be 5k minus whatever you can get for your take-offs.
Wouldn't blame you for going the DIY though. Your guy with the shop sounds like a blessing, but I would also make sure you or he has a good machine shop lined up. You'll need to get the block decked and notched (for the stroker crank I believe), and have the heads cleaned and decked.
Hey guys, would you also get the block "dipped" at the machine shop? I'm still working with old school knowledge on the bottom end. Back in the day we would always wait until the shop changed out the bath with new fluid (every month or two) before sending in for dipping.
This is something I'd like to be doing myself, whenever I get the money, so let us know how this goes...
I'm not sure why anyone would bother with an LS1 based 383 when you can get an LS2 (much better block) with a 4.00 crank to net 402 ci for only ~ $4,000.
I'm not sure why anyone would bother with an LS1 based 383 when you can get an LS2 (much better block) with a 4.00 crank to net 402 ci for only ~ $4,000.
Mark
Trivial, but one reason for me is the class I like to compete in for drag racing requires that your engine block be one that was available from the MFG for the year and make of your vehicle.
I know, they probably could never tell the difference, but I just don't play that way... Other than that, I really like the LS2 402, and yes it's all forged, at leat the way they come from Scoggin-Dickey and SLP they are, dunno about anyone elses.