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I've tracked a 96 Z28 (6 pot Wilwoods up front) for years and I just turned it up a notch with the purchase of an 03 EB Z06. I'd like to hear from people who track their Vettes about their experiences with various brands of rotors/pads. Eradispeeds are on sale from a supporting vendor and I'm considering the +1 - two piece package. Car will be tracked 5-10 times per year and will see 'spirited' mountain driving as well.
Floating vs nonfloating? 1 vs 2 piece? Brand X vs Y Z and W??
Hoping to move up to RA-1's and race only pads in the near future.
Head over to the autocross/road racing forum. You'll find that drilled/slotted rotors, regardless of manufacturer, are not well received. Best bang for the buck are the OE rotors, about $25-30 from NAPA.
Floating are always better than non, but I don't know how hard you've got to be flogging the brakes before it becomes an issue. I'm just sticking with the stock rotors until I start having problems.
another vote here for the stock Delco GM rotors. I payed $18 each for my front rotors (through work...) and they perform beautifully! I upgraded to the Z06 pads though. Some at the track said to go with some real racing pads but I simply would never get 300 bucks out of them....
I am limited on what I can use by SCCA T1 class rules, but with the below setup, I can run a 40 minute SCCA race on DOT track tires with no noticeable brake fade.
NAPA OEM rotors
Carbotech pads (currently using XP11 front, XP10 rear - these are full race pads) (available from forum vendor pfyc.com)
Wilwood EXP 600 Plus Fluid (not DOT 3 warranty compliant) (available from forum vendor hardbar.net)
Goodridge SS lines with AN fittings
DRM brake duct extensions with Phoenix spindle brackets
As you can see from the above posts, rotors are considered an expendable item. When I first started road racing I spent $700 on a full DBA brake set up (including drilled and slotted rotors, SS lines, race pads, etc.) and the rotors cracked after the 2nd track day. Don't make the same mistake I did. Put your money in the pads, lines, cooling ducts, high temp. fluid and OEM rotors...
Shirl
Note on Raybestos/Napa rotors, depending on how hard you are on brakes keep a set of spares around. I have run for a couple years and stock rotors lasted a long time, went to Raybestos and as I put more heat into brakes the stock rotors will crack, up front first. I usually don't do much work on my car, like to support the economy , but I found myself changing a set of rotors in the garage one Saturday night in order to get back on track on Sunday. Bedding in rotors at 9pm around the local on ramps will get some attention. The kids in the Z06's found it humorous the next day, but I was back out showing some the line and kept working on personal bests.
Randy
Allsafe/Raybestos/NAPA=all the same rotor made in the same factory in Canada with the same box with different labels slapped on. I get 1 track day from fronts, 2 days from rears before through and through cracks. I use Wilwood H pads front and rear with Wilwood 6 pots in front and stock calipers in back. That is with DRM ducts and spindle ducts.