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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 02:07 AM
  #21  
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Mike, Those LS7's sure are Pretty. Save the Wave.>George
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 03:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Bink
What has JOHN been smoking???


The C5R block..........BARE block is $6250.
We're not talking a shortblock. Shortblocks have rotating assemblies within - crank, bearings, rods, pistons, pins, rings, timing gear (usually), cam etc.

Personally I would not choke it with a set of LS6 heads when far better flowing heads are available.

Yes, some of us have read associated threads on LS1Tech.

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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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Jim, I can't agree with you more. The newest ETP heads are simply awesome!
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 10:00 PM
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I can't say that I understand the hype of the LS7 engine. For $14K you can easily build an LS1 to make more power and be just as reliable and streetable...and not have to deal with any of the PCM issues
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 10:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by lost
What have you been smoking? $6400 for the C5R shortblock,CNC ported LS6 heads,[$1195 from Patriot] and Jet-hots long tubes[tpis] for $600, and the cam of your choice $250-$400, and you you have $5000 left over for tires .wheels,rockers and whatever.The new LS7 is not the end all of all engines, and with the # of problems they are having with valve springs etc.The C5R might well be the better choice.you get the crate LS7 and you have to disassemble it to change the reluctor, not to mention the dry sump system that is not included in crate engine or other little goodies that include no doubt the unavailability of main bolts, as once you remove the crank the old bolts cant be reused...Did anyone bother to read the entire link to ls1tech above?

You left off the crank, titanium rods, manifolds, and ton of other parts. Quotes I get for a 427 is 25-30,000
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 06:11 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
You left off the crank, titanium rods, manifolds, and ton of other parts. Quotes I get for a 427 is 25-30,000
What about starting with an LS7 block and going from there? You'd get the big bores but without the C5R pricetag.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:22 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by SilverBulletZ06
What about starting with an LS7 block and going from there? You'd get the big bores but without the C5R pricetag.
Your still piecing a motor together with all after market part and it gets real expensive for good parts. Try to buy some ti rods, heads, manifolds, pistons, pans, oil pumps, and a ton of other things. Who wants an Eagle crank from China not me. Headers. cam, and a tune and you near 600 HP or more. Every thing is already balanced you just need to disassemble and reassemble.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 03:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
Your still piecing a motor together with all after market part and it gets real expensive for good parts. Try to buy some ti rods, heads, manifolds, pistons, pans, oil pumps, and a ton of other things. Who wants an Eagle crank from China not me. Headers. cam, and a tune and you near 600 HP or more. Every thing is already balanced you just need to disassemble and reassemble.
So basically your stuck buying a brand new engine, then pulling it apart only to put it back together again with the same pieces.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #29  
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need to change reluctor on crank so yes
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 03:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
need to change reluctor on crank so yes
Reluctor crank is a bit out of my tech know-how. I assume it goes to some sensor. Why not regear the sensor to read like the LS1/LS6?
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 06:45 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
You left off the crank, titanium rods, manifolds, and ton of other parts. Quotes I get for a 427 is 25-30,000

none of that pushes the price tag to $30K, you might want to make some more phone calls and or price things out for yourself.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SilverBulletZ06
Reluctor crank is a bit out of my tech know-how. I assume it goes to some sensor. Why not regear the sensor to read like the LS1/LS6?
Well, that's the basic idea...but to even do that you'll have to take it off and if you're taking it off it's easier to just put the stock LS1/6 one on and be done with it. There are some pictures of the old and new reluctor cranks beside each other somewhere on the forum, search around a bit
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 08:44 PM
  #33  
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here is a pic of the old vs new reluctor wheel http://filebox.vt.edu/users/mkoch/reluctor2.JPG

here is also the old vs new cam gear
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/mkoch/camgears.JPG
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