I will be swapping out my multi-function switch (1998) within a week or two and was curious if anyone has any comments or tips on what to expect.

I glanced at the steps in the service manual and it is saying you must remove the Airbag and steering wheel. I thought I read somewhere you do not need to remove the steering wheel but I didnt have luck finding the thread to make sure.

Can you do it without removing the steering wheel? Mine is manually adjustable. Thanks!

 

If you want a straight shot at the small torx screws then you'll want to remove the wheel. But that's not How I did mine. Just remove the plastic column covers and remove the screws with allen wrenches and torx tools to release the switch. I had to get creative with the tools by using allen wrenches, small socket torx tools to get at the screws and it took a whole of an hour to swap parts. So no the wheel does not need to be removed.
Been there, done that.


PS the dealer charged $260 for the switch and GMpartsdirect only charged $132 delivered.

 

Sounds good! Hopefully ill have the same luck you did. I'll try to get a write up in if I find an easy way to get around everything. Thanks!

I got mine online from Gene at Fred Beans (thanks again Gene!) near $132?? (can't remember.)

 

You don't need to pull the steering wheel or airbag but something that did catch me off guard was the torx sizes. I don't remember off hand what size they were but the torx that Chevy used are really small, smaller than the torx drivers that a standard autoparts store handles. It is recommended that an allen wrench is not used because of the high risk of stripping the torx bolt head. Always use the right tool!

 

FYI

Sears sells a torx & allen set of keys.

 

I did this job starting with a torx that had a 1/4" drive socket on it. I drove the torx out of the socket drive. Then I used the torx tip and a small open end wrench to take out the difficult screws. Just another way to skin a cat...
Shirl Dickey

 

Friend,
I did not write these instructions. They were posted on the forum and I searched my izass of to find them. Unfortunatley I cannot remember the author

I followed these to a T and got the job done easily. Except for the "box wrench part"
I used a little torx multi folding thingy for the tricky scews that hold the stalk to the wheel. You know, the one where the all fold towards the center? This worked well because I was able to get a nice firm grip while I had it side ways on the screw. The hardest part of this swap was actually getting the plug/clips apart to plug in the new ones. I really didn't have any issues with the hard to reach screw. I guess it was because of my little torx multi folding thingy

Enjoy, Nate

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1. remove the two screw on the knee pad under (Torx head screw).
2. use a thin screw driver to lift the small panel out around the trunk release switch and disconnect the switch connector..remove the screw behind the trunk release switch panel.
3. lift the small (vent looking) panel next to the ignition switch and remove the screw behind it.
4. Pull the knee pad panel out...there is a couple of spring load clips (friction fastener) holding the panel in on the left side of the panel.

5. Remove the two torx head screw under the the cover for the steering column just below the steering wheel.

6. Split the top and bottom section of this cover and remove the bottom cover. (Top and bottom covers at jointed at the base with small hooks on each side). The top cover would not be removable yet.

7. Remove the two Torx screws (silver in color...this is extended out verse the indentation you have on normal screw head...if you don't have a socket for torx, try using a small hex socket) from underneath...they hold the top half of the cover. Then remove the top cover.

8. Remove one top screw on the top part of the steering holding the turn signal switch. The second one faces you on your lower left when you are sitting in the car...try turning the steering wheel to the left so the flat part of the airbag is on the left for easier access. THIS SCREW IS KIND OF TRICKY...DON't STRIP THE TORX HEAD!!! I didn't have the right tool so I use a Torx head socket and use a slip joint plier to turn it slowly....I think it is best if you have a torx head that is the right size (25) that fits into one of those multifunction screw driver head is best then you can use an rachett box wrench or an open wrench to turn it. Loosing this is remove all the way by fingers (this is the most time consuming part). Replace switch by attaching the two screws back then swap the two connectors with the old/bad switch....

9. Reinstall the rest in reverse order....If you have the right tool for the last torx screw...you should be able to do this in less than 30 minutes.

**************************************** *************
Again. I did not write these. The person that did ROCKS! Were ever you are

 

Jedicowboy those instructions rocked (thanks and thanks to whoever wrote them!) Swap took a conservative 2 hours, but now that I know what im doing, and without distractions it should take around 30 minutes.

One thing I would add is step 8.5

8.5) You may have difficulties pulling out the switch wiring connectors due to clearance issues reaching with your hand. If that is the case you can remove the knee pad bracket (metal piece with styrofoam attached.) It is connected with 4 torx screws (2 on each side.) Once it is removed you should be able to pull the connector out with no problems.


Add to 9) When reinstalling in reverse order, you may need to loosen up the trim around your stereo and climate control to allow the knee pad to smoothly get underneath the overlapping stereo trim. Also keep in mind the 2 lower screws of the knee pad may be a pain. I found the best way is to attach the knee pad is with the 2 lower screws already "punched in." Also insure the clips where these 2 screws will screw into are properly positioned (one fell out on me and I had to clip it back in) so you don't end up digging around guiding the screws into the holes (that you cant see.)

For the interior temperature sensor, I had the best luck disconnecting it's cable and removing the sensor completely from the knee trim. Once the knee trim is installed and the cable is "hanging out" from the overlapping openings of both knee and stereo trims, simply connect the cable back to the sensor and insert the sensor assembly into the opening. The sensor assembly will "click" in. I don't know if it can even remain attached to the wire during the entire swap as the only way to reattach is pushing it in (rather than "pulling" it back into place.)

Thanks for all the input guys! It's a great feeling fixing a problem yourself rather than paying someone to fix it for you!

 

This is a great thread which saved me an expensive repair bill. The high beams on my 2004 Vette stopped working while all other functions were OK. I followed the instructions in this thread and completed replacement of the headlight switch in less than 90 minutes. Thanks to all who put this together!

 

Holy thread necromancy, Batman!

Well since I'm here I'll contribute my writeup to this topic...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-a-how-to.html

 

You guys are awesum. Saved a bunch of dollars. PIA to do but I don"t get paid that much per hour.....Works like a charm. Thanks again. Chuck