Just wanted to hear about your experience or read your procedures to install the header system. Links are welcome. This is going on a 2003 coupe.

 

i've done a few, no issues, follow the instructions; i should make a how to next time

 

connecticut, how did you route your front 02 sendor wires. There is not alot of room for them since the sensors are so far back.

out2run, I deviated from the instructions and installed the driver's side from the top instead of the bottom. I had the valve cover off and steering shaft already disconnected. This made it easier vs. trying to figure out how to safely jack the car up the 22"-23" inches that is required for a bottom installation.

 

This link has some general help: www.ls1howto.com

I just finished an install on my 2001 Coupe A4 tranny -

Pass installs from the top, drivers from the bottom - I had the front tires up on ramps, nothing higher needed!

I removed the coil packs on both sides - I did not remove the valve covers on either side, although it might have helped on the pass side.

On pass side remove the starter before dropping header in from top - don't need to disconnect starter wires, just remove two bolts holding starter to engine - after header in place on pass side, but BEFORE installing header bolts, REINSTALL the starter bolts and torque them - it is almost impossible to torque the starter bolts when the pass header is tightened down.

On pass side, note where the oil dipstick tube goes into the block BEFORE you install the header - when the pass header is installed, you CANNOT see the hole where the oil dipstick tube goes into the block - I had someone help me reinstall the oil dipstick tube - I was under the car w/ a mirror and light, and they manuvered the dipstick tube from above - I used a bent piece of copper wire to snag the bottom of the dipstick tube and pull it close to the hole (that I could BARELY see w/ a mirror) and they pushed from above - once we coordinated our movements, it went easy.

On the drivers side, I removed the ground strap that goes from the engine block to the frame (remove it at the frame). On drivers side, I found that the manifold bolt on the FAR RIGHT was easiest to remove while lying under the car - also on drivers side, I removed all the hoses & tubing going to the air pump EXCEPT for the steel air line that wraps around the back of the engine on the drivers side - for that line, I simply displaced it out of the way.

Also, you obviously need to remove all of the spark plugs before installing the headers.

On the drivers side, be careful of the sensor on the side of the head at the front of the head. I've been told a couple guys on the Forum broke it installing their headers, although I didn't break mine.

Put ANTI-SEEZE on the bolts before install the header to head bolts. If you have a 6 speed, you may need to undo the clutch line on the drivers side - since mine's an auto, I didn't have to worry about that.

Also, I DID NOT need to remove the steering shaft on the drivers side.

Add these hints to the instructions that came w/ the headers, and you will have it made!! If any more questions, feel free to PM me.

Good luck and enjoy - I might start mine up and hear it for the first time this weekend.

Bill.

 

Front O2 sensor wires - the factory harness is secured to the frame at the wire coupler - I did not leave the factor harness attached to the frame - then I simply ran the front 02 extensions over the top of the headers and at an angle back to the factory connector at an angle - I didn't think it would be long enough at first, but it worked - I still have to tie the wires up and out of the way - from what I've heard, tie them onto anything.

Also, when I installed my drivers header, MY FRONT TIRES WERE ONLY!!!! UP ON CAR RAMPS - Nothing further is needed, and my ramps are normal size - I'd say my front tires were maybe 9" off the ground at best, and I had no problems!!!

Finally, when reinstalling the o2 sensor wires, Be sure not to touch the O2 sensors themselves - Also, be sure that the 02 sensors are replaced in the correct locations, and that the wires for the o2 sensors are properly connected - DON'T switch things around!!!!!!!!!! if things get switched, I'm told the car won't run right and can throw codes. TAKE YOUR TIME and label o2 sensor wires WELL when you disassemble - you might start to question yourself as you reassemble, so LABEL THINGS WELL DURING DISASSEMBLY!!!

 

i find the wiring to be the most tedious part of the job, you'll see 2 holes on the frame rail, i looped a zip tie through those to hold the conn. away from the headers, i usually end up spending an hour on just the wiring, making sure everything is secure; also for the rear 02's, you can leave them plugged in and spin the pipe onto the sensor, make sure you mark them l and r before you peel the stickers off

 

I followed cajundudes write up for LG headers for my Dynatech install and didn't have any problems, just take your time with the O2 wires.

http://www.cajundude.com/longtubes.htm

 

Thanks everyone for the tips! It sure will help me out.

 

This is what I am looking for.

 

I installed my system on my stock LS6 motor.

Just be patient.

Nothing difficult, just takes time.

Just make sure you run the O2 sensors in their proper location.

Car runs like $hit if their not correct.

Ask me how I know...

 

The kit is now sitting in my foyer after delivery. I think I may have bitten off more than I can chew on the install.



Local shop wanted $350 to install but only if you buy the kit from them at retail. His total price would have been over $2000 installed!

I will attempt the install and be very well prepared for each step. This is not a daily driver so install time is not important.

Thanks

 

Shame you're not closer. I've got a lift and we could do it in a couple hours.

Mike

 

Procedure is very straight forward. The only stage you need to be cautious during the installation is the front 02's sensor wiring. When you first drop in the headers make sure that you can tie the wires away from the headers and to the frame before you tighten the header bolts. This will save time and knuckle scraps later when you have everything bolted up and realize that one of the wires is close to the header collector pipes.