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Does the inside lip where the crank bolt goes need to be flush with the end of the crank... i am ALMOST there (1/8 -1/16 " MAYBE ) but i can get the crank on ANY further. I dont wanna be throwing belts when i get this back together... any help?
Does the inside lip where the crank bolt goes need to be flush with the end of the crank... i am ALMOST there (1/8 -1/16 " MAYBE ) but i can get the crank on ANY further. I dont wanna be throwing belts when i get this back together... any help?
If I recall correctly when I did my cam swap, that bolt needs to be flushed with the balancer.
No, it does not come flush. There is a specification in the service manual on the distance, which I can retrieve later but am at work now. 1/8" is about right though.
Yep. Mine was recessed 0.15". I measured very carefully when installing the ATI. I could actually feel when it bottomed, using a big break-over and cheater bar. It went from very hard to turn, to very-very-very hard to turn.
So, sounds like you're good.
Now put in a new bolt and do the 50 lb-ft, 140-degree thing.
when you're finished, put a sharpie mark on the bolt head and the balancer so they line up, then you can check them occasionally to be sure the balancer is not loosening. Good peace-of-mind.
Yep. Mine was recessed 0.15". I measured very carefully when installing the ATI. I could actually feel when it bottomed, using a big break-over and cheater bar. It went from very hard to turn, to very-very-very hard to turn.
So, sounds like you're good.
Now put in a new bolt and do the 50 lb-ft, 140-degree thing.
when you're finished, put a sharpie mark on the bolt head and the balancer so they line up, then you can check them occasionally to be sure the balancer is not loosening. Good peace-of-mind.
Another check you could do: Before I removed the original pulley, I measured the distance from the edge of the crank pulley to the flat surface of the timing cover and it was exactly 1". When I installed the new UD pulley, it was the same.