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Does harmonic balancer .. (quick help!)

Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Default Does harmonic balancer .. (quick help!)

Does the inside lip where the crank bolt goes need to be flush with the end of the crank... i am ALMOST there (1/8 -1/16 " MAYBE ) but i can get the crank on ANY further. I dont wanna be throwing belts when i get this back together... any help?
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by usnskeet21
Does the inside lip where the crank bolt goes need to be flush with the end of the crank... i am ALMOST there (1/8 -1/16 " MAYBE ) but i can get the crank on ANY further. I dont wanna be throwing belts when i get this back together... any help?
If I recall correctly when I did my cam swap, that bolt needs to be flushed with the balancer.

Hope things work out for you.

Micah
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:45 PM
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No, it does not come flush. There is a specification in the service manual on the distance, which I can retrieve later but am at work now. 1/8" is about right though.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 01:21 PM
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It should not be flush. The service manual says:

Important: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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Yep. Mine was recessed 0.15". I measured very carefully when installing the ATI. I could actually feel when it bottomed, using a big break-over and cheater bar. It went from very hard to turn, to very-very-very hard to turn.
So, sounds like you're good.
Now put in a new bolt and do the 50 lb-ft, 140-degree thing.
when you're finished, put a sharpie mark on the bolt head and the balancer so they line up, then you can check them occasionally to be sure the balancer is not loosening. Good peace-of-mind.

DG
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wrench
Yep. Mine was recessed 0.15". I measured very carefully when installing the ATI. I could actually feel when it bottomed, using a big break-over and cheater bar. It went from very hard to turn, to very-very-very hard to turn.
So, sounds like you're good.
Now put in a new bolt and do the 50 lb-ft, 140-degree thing.
when you're finished, put a sharpie mark on the bolt head and the balancer so they line up, then you can check them occasionally to be sure the balancer is not loosening. Good peace-of-mind.

DG
Sweet, thanks for the tip. !!!
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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This is why I love this forum, people with the experience. I learned something very helpful.

Glad you got the right answer.

Micah
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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I think it also says put some red loctite on the bolt.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DRIVER456
I think it also says put some red loctite on the bolt.
Not the service manual. I personally think this is risky for later removal, a broken bolt in the crank is your worst nightmare.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Not the service manual. I personally think this is risky for later removal, a broken bolt in the crank is your worst nightmare.
I put an ARP bolt in.Boy I sure hope I don't have to take that thing out If that bolt breaks,thats a cheap bolt

Last edited by DRIVER456; Feb 1, 2006 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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Another check you could do: Before I removed the original pulley, I measured the distance from the edge of the crank pulley to the flat surface of the timing cover and it was exactly 1". When I installed the new UD pulley, it was the same.
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