Rear Sway torque?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
From: Menands (Albany) NY
Rear Sway torque?
Had my pipes changed yesterday..TI's sound OK..I guess I'm a little disappointed, 
Anyways..I don't have a lift, so I brought it to a local grease monkey.
He had to take the sway bar down to get the old out and new in. He used a regular air wrench to tighten them up. On another thread I read of a certain torque spec for the rear sway bars... I did notice on the way home a sqeaking noise over some bumps.
Anyone know how much this really matters??
Thanks!!
Anyways..I don't have a lift, so I brought it to a local grease monkey.
He had to take the sway bar down to get the old out and new in. He used a regular air wrench to tighten them up. On another thread I read of a certain torque spec for the rear sway bars... I did notice on the way home a sqeaking noise over some bumps.
Anyone know how much this really matters??
Thanks!!
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
From: Fredericksburg Va
Originally Posted by Groucho
Had my pipes changed yesterday..TI's sound OK..I guess I'm a little disappointed,
Anyways..I don't have a lift, so I brought it to a local grease monkey.
He had to take the sway bar down to get the old out and new in. He used a regular air wrench to tighten them up. On another thread I read of a certain torque spec for the rear sway bars... I did notice on the way home a sqeaking noise over some bumps.
Anyone know how much this really matters??
Thanks!!
Anyways..I don't have a lift, so I brought it to a local grease monkey.
He had to take the sway bar down to get the old out and new in. He used a regular air wrench to tighten them up. On another thread I read of a certain torque spec for the rear sway bars... I did notice on the way home a sqeaking noise over some bumps.
Anyone know how much this really matters??
Thanks!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville AR
Probably not any problem, but most of us here are a little **** when it comes to our vette. If you don’t have a good digital torque wrench then its time to buy one ($100.00 sears) especially since so much of our cars is aluminum. I torque everything to specs. In your case I would just buy a torque wrench at my earliest convenience and check them. This is reason # 20 that I don’t bring any of my cars in to anyone to be worked on (if I can help it) and if I do I watch them like a hawk and bring my own torque wrench for like the lug nuts and I torque them down myself. Last time I bought new tires for the Jeep I told them what I wanted they said no problem and when I got home half of the nuts were too loose (50 -60 #) the other half were too tight (110 - 150) and I have nice aluminum rims on her. Over time if a nut/bolt are too loose they may back themselves out (very important on stuff like lug nuts) and if over tighten they my end up striping or breaking a bolt –esp when aluminum is involved.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Yes it matters. The lower nut fastens to the bolt that runs through the lower control arm. The lower is 70 ft/lbs and the upper is 52 I believe. You can verify at www.ls1howto.com.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
From: Menands (Albany) NY
Thanks...but..
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Yes it matters. The lower nut fastens to the bolt that runs through the lower control arm. The lower is 70 ft/lbs and the upper is 52 I believe. You can verify at www.ls1howto.com.
What does this mean...Will it harm the car?
Thanks in advance.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Dude make right... mine were under-torqued b/c I didn't have a torque wrench that would fit. I was getting a clunk in the rear. After using a smaller torque wrench I found that they were way under-torqued. After tightening everyhing is prefect.
