The EBTCM on my 02 Z06 had a significant problem. I did not get the 1214 DTC but every other DTC in the book. my problem had something to do with a faulty processor or function for the processor. The EBTCM would apply (pulsate) the brakes when the car was driving STRAIGHT down the road!!! It would also fault out after the car reached 42 MPH! If I drove the car less than 42 MPH, everything was fine.

My car was 20 days out of the warranty and still well within the 36,000 miles. So,,,,,I called GM customer Assistance and they said that they would help me out. long story short, they tried to hang me out to dry for $1600+ My knuckles are still bruised and bloody but I beat it out of them!!!

As for repairing the EBTCM,,,,GOOD LUCK! Your going to need a good 2M soldering station and a microscope! They use multilevel boards and micro components! I have pictures of mine disassembled and will post them here later tonight! I did examine the board under a microscope and it looked like a 3rd grader soldered the board. I cleaned off the mess and re-soldered it but have not reinstalled the EBTCM to test it!
There are three relays mounted to the underside of the board. You would need to remove the top board and then figure out which relay is the system relay. Thats probably not too difficult as you could figure out which pin on the connector goes to that relay and just follow it through! Under the top circuit board, there is a micro-processor board that has a coating of that sticky silicone gel. Your NOT going to be doing nothing to that board!! forgetaboutit

The module is a snap to remove from the main body of the BPMV! Four small torx screws and two connectors. The module pops right off! There is NO fluid to worry about or programming to worry about. The module has 12 coils on the inside that fit over sealed pop-it valves, so the inside of the module is dry. When the module senses that it needs to send brake fluid to a wheel cylinder, it sends voltage to that coil and the coil opens the valve.

The main electrical plug uses a CAM LOCK connector. There is a latch lever on the module that you lift up and it pulls the plug out of the module. Before you try to remove the plug, there is a safety tab that will need to be removed from the latch. Just lift up on the latch and the plug will retract. Mate the plug back up to the module and press down on the latch and the plug will insert its self back into the module!

As for cleaning grounds and checking voltages,, that stuff is FREE!!! If you pull the main plug off and check to see if you have 12 VDC and test the ground pins to ground, hey,,you might find something that is not right and save a ton of money! It sure cant hurt!!

I will post pictures tonight.

Bill C

 

Here are the pictures of the 02 C5 EBTCM:















More immages in next post:

 

Next post::









BC

 

Thank you for the photo's. Did you remove the EBCM from the top or from below? Did you remove any other parts, to get to the EBCM? Was there any seals or gaskets between the EBCM, and the valve?

 

I replaced mine. I got lucky and new someone. So I got a used one of a 01Z06 that was a repo and was going to auction. That car also needed a new BCM and maybe a PCM. It was throwing all kinds of codes. Put the new box in mine and the car is happy again.

 

You can remove it from the top. All you need to do is remove both connectors and remove the 4 torx screws. There is a RTV type of seal on the OEM unit. All you need to do is add a little bit of black RTV and your all set. If you purchase a new EBTCM, I think it comes with a new seal. Dont worry, replacement isnt difficult! It's really quite easy!!

 

>> As for cleaning grounds and checking voltages,, that stuff is FREE!!!
>> If you pull the main plug off and check to see if you have 12 VDC and
>> test the ground pins to ground, hey,,you might find something that is
>> not right and save a ton of money! It sure cant hurt!!


Let me tell you my experience over the weekend. I tried cleaning grounds G103 and G108 throughly to see if that made any difference. No difference.

I had a used EBCM coming from Gene at Gene's Kar Shop. I thought I would remove the EBCM and get that part of the repair out of the way. Once it was removed, I burnished the contacts on the EBCM lightly with a file. I measured voltage and resistance on the harness connector and everything looked good. I also burnished the harness connector pins.

I then put the EBCM back on the BPMV, plugged the connectors back on and fired it up. No problems and no codes. Everything works fine. Prior to me removing the EBCM, I got C1214 almost continuously and it would not clear.

Before buying a new EBCM, take a small file, emery board, etc... and gently scrape (burnish) the mating surfaces of the connector pins. Don't press too hard or you might deform the contacts or rub off the plating.

I have a gut feeling that these intermittent C1214-only problems are primarily contact related. Changing the module changes the mating of the connector (new pins) and solves the problem. At least it's a theory. It would be nice if you guys with intermittent C1214 codes could duplicate what I did and get the same results.

C5_Pewter_Vette

P.S. Nice pictures Bill. I gave up opening mine as it looked like the insides were potted.

 

Like Bill said its very easy to do. I removed it from the top. Just wait for the car to be cool. Some of the hoses can be be pretty warm. If you buy the unit new it comes with new screws and the seal already on the unit. The hardest part was not dropping the screws when putting them in. Once I was done I got in the car and started it with no codes. I did clear all history codes before taking it for a drive. Good luck. PM me if you have any questions.

Didnt remove anything else and did not use a torque wrench. The screws were not tight. I dont remember the size torx driver I needed.

Tony

 

Thanks to everyone for the responses, and photo's! The connection to the EBCM is the problem in my opinion. The first two times I disconnected the connector, and cleaned with electrical cleaner. The service lights have came on a few times, where before they came on daily. This time I will burnish the contacts, and then clean with electrical cleaner. After all of this cleaning, my last resort will be to replace the EBCM, big money!

 

Partner, I'm experiencing the very same problem. Have been for almost six months now. I think I've done just about everything listed except the EBCM connector and relay. I'll try anything at this point. I have so much money and time in it I don't know what else to do. One shop replaced the PCM, BCM and spent numerous hours on grounds and connectors. $$$ and still having Good Ole' GM Electronics problems.
Go Figure.
Thanks for the info.

 

Disconnect the EBCM connector, and saturate both ends with electrical grade contact cleaner. Let the connector dry. A good contact cleaner will dry fast. As I wrote in a previous post, I applied dielectic grease. I don't think that was a good idea. I had to clean as much of that off the connector ends, as I could. When I re-connected the connection, my service lights were on all of the time. Before I applied the grease the service lights were coming on intermittently. This was done last saturday 4/22/06. On Monday on the way to work while driving I pulled my DTC list up, and reset the 1214 code. The lights went out, and I felt a low level pulsation from the brakes. I believe the EBCM, and the ABS were applying brakes. Since tuesday I have driven 9 complete cycles with NO service lights coming on, and last night the roads were wet, with a good amount of rain. Hopefully all of this cleaning corrected a poor connection. Another member went further, and burnished the connector ends. I plan to do that, if the lights start coming on again.
The service manual states intermittent electical problems are usally wire, contact, or poor connection related. I agree! Hope everyone will do the cleaning, before spending big money on an EBCM.

 

Well, my connector cleaning/burnishing worked great for a few days. Now C1214 is back. I have a call into Gene at Gene's Kar Shop to see if he still has the EBCM. I'll drive over a get it if he still has it.

I am so stressed out over this. I need to either sell or give back (and take a loss) this car by May 16 and I can't get the thing into good enough shape to sell it retail.

Sad to say I think this car is both my first and last Corvette. I bought an Acura TL a week ago. I also have an Acura MDX that is about the same age as the Vette and I have had ZERO issue with it. The Vette on the other has had multiple fuel senders, multiple headlight motors, multiple batteries, computers, ignition switch, the passenger visor broke just opening it, etc...

I've had it.

 

Any shop that replaces the PCM to solve a EBTCM has a bunch of monkey wrenches for mechanics. One that replaces the BCM to resolve a EBTCM hired morons or they intentionally ripped you off!! I hope you got to keep your good used parts!!!

BC

 

I still have the bad EBCM from my car. I could send it to you if it would help.

Let me know.

 

I wish it weren't so, but you are correct. They had my car for over a month and when I finally got it back the thing was in worse condition than when I dropped it off. Many of the interior controls didn't work right and days later we got hit at almost 50mph by a hit&run driver with no insurance. Guess what, no airbags!!! Nope, they had disabled the airbags too. So their so-called PCM, BCM, MAF, Steering Lock Deplete, blah-blah-blah just caused more problems and all for only a few thousand dollars. I took it to the biggest dealer in the Tampa area and they confirmed the PCM/BCM's weren't programmed properly. They only changed $90 and I had everything back in running condition again. And no, I didn't get my old parts back.

So if anyone ever feels s/he has too much money, or too nice of a car they might consider taking it to:

Skip's Auto
721 Apricot Street
Sarasota, FL 34237

The owner will hook you right up.

On the lighter side, I did the connector clean, burnish, clean, dry and reconnect. So far no codes. But I did see that another gentlemen did the same and they came back. It all still sounds like a connector issue to me so I'll keep trying.
Thanks for the advice!

 

I just rescued my 2001 z06 from a repairshop who kind of went straight for the ECBM replacement when I brought it in after the traction, active handling and abs system went haywire every time I go 46 mph or over.

I haven't let them replace it yet, is this pretty much standard? And does the replacement actually fix anything or just patch it until it comes back?

Dealer wants 900$ to make the repair, but they've already screwed me over once.

Sorry, I'm just desperate here. It's just incredible to me that such a high powered machine could need such a part replaced already. (I've only had her 10-11 months.)

 

Here's my recommendation:
I bought a new EBCM, so I first removed the stock EBCM from the bottom of the car. When you get ready to install the new EBCM, put the torx screw in the holes of the new EBCM before putting it in place. This makes it much easier for the center screws that I continually dropped while trying to crew them from the EBCM.
Good luck I cussed quite a bit until I realized I was retarded and had the wrong size torx screw driver!

 

The very first thing that you need to do is read the DTC CODES! Please read the codes and post them. Then clear ALL the codes and take her for a ride. When the fault happens, read the codes again and post the results.

GM seems to be having tons of electrical issues on most of the C5's. Here are some of the modules that are failing in increasing numbers.

-Door Control Modules
-TAC modules (97-98)
-HVAC Display Module
-EBTCM
-BCM's

Here are come other electrical hot spots!!

Female connector pins on MOST electrical connectors.
Chassis ground connectors corroding.

Yes, your EBTCM is most likely causing the problem!! I had the EXACT same problem except mine failed at 42 MPH!

Yes, the EBTCM will fix the problem. Yes, it may fail again!!

There is a company who has started repairing the commonly failing modules.

Here is an e-mail that I received from a friend:

Hey Bill,

I noticed you have done extensive testing with the EBTCM's however said that due to the nature of the circuit boards they would be difficult to repair.

I found this ebay link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...spagenameZWDVW

which led to this company
http://www.autoecu.com/Products/default.asp

Apparently for $425USD they repair your EBCM, and warranty it for life!

What do you think about this?

Mark
'03 Coupe

If you decide to get a new EBTCM on your own or send it in for a repair which seems to replace the bad relays with better ones, it should fix your issue!

This is NOT a difficult repair. It can be done in less than 30 min! Other than a torques bit driver, there are no special tools or programming needed. The electronic module is a plug n play module! The hydraulic BPMV side of the unit stays in place and never gets removed. There is also NO hydraulic brake fluid to module interface which means that you wont need to do any brake fluid bleeding!











Bill

 

Yay! More options!

I know, I know. I need a code scanner something fierce, I just keep dragging my feet. Right now, I'm just happy to have her back in the driveway at home. I'm very much in love with my car, I'm a sick little girl okay?

Thanks for posting the letter about the EBCM repair, Bill. You've restored hope for now. And I think the door control goblin already reared its ugly head. Two down, two to go.

 

Hey Guy,
You might want to try the contact clean technique one of the other gentlemen recommended in an earlier thread. I pulled the EBCM main connector off, took a womans disposable paper / fiber finger nail file and burnished the contacts on both sides the best I could. Then I sprayed both mail and female ends with electronic contact cleaner / lubricant and blew them dry with an air hose. That was two weeks ago and still no more codes (knock-knock).
;-)

Good Luck!