Has anyone installed a new EBCM on a 2002 coupe?
The service manual does not list very much info. Do
the brake lines need to be removed from the valve
in order to lift out the valve? The service manual list's
removing the cross bolt, and disconnecting the electrical
connection, and then removing the four screws that connect
the EBCM to the valve. Is there any electronic programming
required after the installation?

 

2002 EBCM's seem to fail more than other years. We have changed several - not hard to do. No programing required, just delete codes. Do it from under the car with it on a lift for best results. Do not disconnect any brakes lines!

 

as lloyd, no disco on the lines, the electonic part is seperate, Bill Curlee had this problem on his '02 Z

 

What type of connector is used on the EBCM? Do you
remember how you removed the connector? I want
to look at the connection, and see will cleaning the
contact's or surface do any good. There are different
codes for internal, and external open circuit's. My
service indicator's are intermittent, and could be related
to an external problem on the EBCM. The service manual
says the EBCM is a very reliable part, and wiring or
connection problems are probably the cause.

 

HERE IS THE INFO FROM GM SERVICE INFORMATION
Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement
Removal Procedure




Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Disconnect the EBCM harness connector.
Remove the two insulator nuts (1).
Lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket high enough to allow clearance to remove the insulator mounting bolt and the EBCM.



Remove the insulator mounting bolt from the EBCM.
Remove the six EBCM to BPMV bolts.
Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated.
Carefully remove the seal. The seal may by reused if it is not cut or damaged.
Installation Procedure




Clean the BPMV seal surface with alcohol using a clean rag.
Install the seal to the BPMV if it is not cut or damaged.
Install the EBCM to the BPMV.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Tighten the six mounting bolts in the following sequence:

Tighten

• First pass to 3 N·m (27 lb in).

• Second pass to 6 N·m (53 lb in).

Important: If the insulator nut was removed it must be replaced with a new insulator nut.


Install the front EBCM insulator mounting bolt.

Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 14 N·m (10 lb ft).





Install the EBCM/BPMV into the bracket.
Install the two insulator nuts (1).

Tighten
Tighten the two insulator nuts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

Connect the EBCM harness connector.
Important: Both sides of the EBCM harness connector must be engaged with lever before closing.


Turn the ignition switch to the ON position; do NOT start the engine.
Perform the Diagnostic System Check - ABS .

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The problem with the ECBM'S is not a bad connection - it is ALWAYS a small relay within the unit that can not be serviced. Boy that really sucks! GM knew the relay may fail, thats why it has a failure code for it! Sometimes GM really blows!!

 

It's still a good idea to always check/clean the electrical connections on any electrical part. The Caddy dealer said my mothers ebtcm was gone and needed to be replaced. I took the car from them and cleaned the electrical connections and it's worked fine for the last 3-4 years. So, you just never know until you try cleaning the connections.
jeff

 

My 2002 is getting the same module swapped - what is the deal?

D.

 

Gene at Gene's Kar Shop found the exact EBCM replacement for my 2001. He's the man! I'll let you all know if this cures my C1214 code problem. Keep your fingers crossed.

C5_Pewter_Vette

 

I'm an electrical engineer. I may try to fix my defective EBCM. I believe GM uses Omron relays quite frequently in the vette - I might be able find a replacement and switch it out. I'll know more when I take off my EBCM and look inside. It bothers me that we're forced to scrounge around for used modules or buy new when replacing a cheap little relay with bad contacts would do the trick. I wish I had a schematic of the EBCM.

C5_Pewter_Vette

 

This DTC 1214 continues to be intermittent on my 2002 coupe. After cleaning the chasis grounds, cleaning the EBCM connector, replacing the fuses for the ABS, the service lights stopped coming on for two weeks. Then they began coming on again as before, after driving for five to ten miles. After the car sits overnight or while I am at work they are allways off. My drive to work is about fourteen miles each way. Now last week I drove on a longer trip, for about thirtyfive miles each way, and while driving the lights went out. They came on as usual when I began the trip. Today the lights did not come on, when they usually do, after driving five to ten miles. At this point I do not believe the EBCM is the problem. Hopefully the longer trip reset something?
Anyone have similar results?

No service lights today! I believe the long trip last week has reset or corrected something? Stay tuned!

 

I wish you luck, but I typically drive 60 miles a day (30 miles each way) and I can sometimes go almost a week without the problem, or it could happen once and it goes away after it's cleared. Sometimes it cannot be cleared but goes away after shutting the car off and letting it sit overnight. I have a feeling that, statistically, you're having a lucky streak at the moment. It appears to be random - at least in my car.

C5_Pewter_Vette

 

Thank you for the reply. Let everyone know when you find more about the relay inside of the EBCM. The best I have done in respect to a replacement is gmpartsdirect.com, the part number for the EBCM is 12216561. $576.88 Hopefully my EBCM has more life left.

 

I cleaned the chassis ground on the front part of the frame in the engine bay. Checked the fuse's blew out the EBCM connector with air. What else am I missing? Can the other grounds on the car cause it or is it mainly the 2front ones on the frame in the engine bay? If I have the motor off and everything is quiet, I think I can hear a click when I reset the C1214 code. In 1sec it comes back and wont clear. Anyone have anyother idea's?

 

The intermittent service lights came on today. This time about 100 yards before arriving to work. As usual, the lights come on after using electrical accesories, or braking. I opened the driver, and passenger windows, after they were closed the service lights came on. I do not believe the EBCM is the problem, and do not want to replace something that is working. Could my battery or alternator or something else in the charging system be the problem?

 

What codes do you get? Just C1214?

C5_Pewter_Vette

 

Yes.

 

DTC 1214 is the only code. This weekend I used a little dielectric grease on the ends of the EBCM connection. Not a good idea! After connecting the EBCM connector, the service lights that were coming on intermittently, now were coming on all the time. I disconnected the connection, and cleaned both ends.
Today after driving about twelve miles with the ABS, and traction lights on, while driving I pulled up my DTC code list. I ran the list, and the only code was 1214c. In the manual mode once I found the TCS area, with the code 1214 showing, I pressed, and held reset for about five seconds. The service light lights went out, and I felt a very rapid, and short braking pulsation, { EBCM working? }. The service lights did not come back on. Hopefully something has been reset. At least everything is back to the intermittent problem. Anyone have similar results?

 

I really hope you find a cheap fix for your car. I had the same code for about a month. Completed everything Bill recommends and no luck. Ordered the part (EBTCM) from gmpartsdirect for less than $700 shipped. 6 screws (which come with module) and two electrical connectors later and my car if fine again. Its a DIY project. Honestly I was scared that I was going to spend the money and not fix it. Make sure you have done every test possible before laying out the cash. I cleaned my grounds three times to be sure. Even with them checking perfect every time.

BTW: mine kicked the code twice for less than a day each time before failing for good.

 

Thank you for the post. What type, and size drivers did you use to remove the screws holding the EBCM to the valve? What other parts did you have to move in order to get to the EBCM? Others have said they worked from the bottom of the car. Working from the top, looks a little easier. Did you torque everything or just tighten by feel? After you installed the new EBCM, did you have to reset or reprogram anything? Thank you!