this is a good list to start. You can get the T1 bars and Harness Bar used if you look around. You might want new adjustable end links though for the T1 sways.

If you go with the BK bar you can also get their sub mounts thus no drilling in your car. you would then go with a 6point harness with snap clip ends. This also makes it easier to remove the harness when you are off the track.

If you have Sport seats you will not need a racing seat right now. If not then you can purchase a sterum strap that will hold the harnesses in place.


Other items you will at the track
Air pressure gauge
Extra Quart of oil
Extra Brake Fluid
lug wrench

 

As for Z06 times at TWS, you can get under 2 minutes for sure. I was doing 2:01s in a bone stock Z (lowered and aligned agressively) and it was my first time out. I was leaving a lot on the table in certain areas like...oh...corner 1, for obvious reasons like life preservation =)

I know of people who have gotten under 2 minutes, and I hope to do the same next time I go out there. It actually helped me a lot to do TWS in some slower cars where it isn't so deadly to push 100%

The 6th belt is so that you can have two lap belts that go on either side of the family jewels, rather than right on top of them. Possibly somewhat less relevant for you.

 

That is what I thought and I agree. Personlly, I want the NSACAR door bars on each door over the cage. I think the likely hood of a roll over is small, but a side on hit, wall, tires, armco or another car is higher.

and if the NASCAR door bars just happen to be attache to the cage.

I have a Butler Built cutsom fitted race seat on order, once that is made and installed I will have the cage built around the seat.

 

I looked at their work and really liked their roll cage. If the car didn't need windows they did a great job giving the driver a ton of room with keeping him safe. If it needed windows they also had some work around for that.

Every car I saw looked like a professional job not a chop shop like I have seen from others. The only thing I could think of that would be better is if they could do removal side bars thus when the car is not tracked it is easier to get in and out of.

and I agree. the chance of a roll over is less than a T-Bone thus making the side bars very important.

 

I've done a ton of track days and have an SCCA license. I wrecked my car to the tune of about $15 - 20K, depending on who does the work at a track day. This thread has provided a lot of good advice. Here's my .02 worth:

1. Do not drive on any road course unless your car has been set up by a pro, period. I can tell you from personal experience that you do not have to drive that fast to still slid all over the track in a car not properly setup. The best one to do this that I know is Kurt at Phoenix.

2. Do not drive on any road couse without the best safety equipment. This means 5 or 6 point belts, HANS device (a MUST), and proper clothing. This also means racing seats and a minimum of a harness bar, if you find it hard to weld in the real thing.

3. Get an ACCUSUMP installed. It's a lot easier and safer than an additional quart of oil.

As far as the usual things, I've have found NAPA rotors,Carbotech pads, and Casterol SRF fluid to be the best combo. And, this will save you a good deal of money on these expensive disposables.

Oh and by the way, junk those stock lug nut studs and put on some ARP's.

Gary

 

When I got my corvette, I had all the mods planned out before I took delivery. with in 3 weeks and 1400 miles the Golden Eagle was up over 400 RWHP. Two months latter I took my first driving school.

To do it over again, forget the HP mods, 99% of the ppl on this forum can't come close to driving a corvette at even 50% of the cars abilty. Driveing schools and more driving schools, High performance Drivers events or track time WITH AN INSTRUCTOR is how you really get fast.

Then saftey mods. Safty for you car and saftey for yourself. Nope you still dont need HP mods, just seat time and more seat time :sterring:

That will allow you and train you to be a better driver. Guess what?? That will make you a faster and safer driver too.

Be safe out there guys, and have fun

Practice Starts at Justin Bells GT school from many years ago

 

If you want to go with an R compound street/track tire, I'd recommend the Nitto R2 or Toyo RA-1. The problem I see with the NT-01 is that with the current Z06 wheel compatible sizes, 275/40-17 and 315/30-18, you'll end up with a shorter rear tire, 25.7 in. dia. (fr) and 25.4 in. dia. (r). I think your car's TCS won't like that if you drive them on the street (unless you put it in comp. mode or turn AH/TCS off).

I run R2's and get about 500 track mi./5 track days out of them

 

[QUOTE=SCEMO]


Have we met? Were you there that night?

QUOTE]

Yes. I have the same screen name on HPD. We had dinner last week at Cafe Adobe with the rest of the HPD gang. Jeez do something nice for a girl and she forgets immediately.

It's Michael the guy in the silver coupe who waited around with you until the wrecker showed up then drove you to G-Force then home.

The wife is still wondering what I was doing that night!

In regards to who does the work on my car? I do. All of it. If you get into this full bore you either need a boat load of cash or you have to learn how to do most of the maintanence work yourself. Otherwise you go broke.

The first year I owned the car I raced NCCC every event I could in the SW region. I quickly learned how to work on these cars.

 

[QUOTE=gonbad]MICHAEL! Hell ..,. you must forgive me. I am awful with this screen name stuff. It's hard enough for me to remember one name .... much less two. I agree with you completely ... I was just saying to my brother a few nights ago that I want to buy a lift. The problem is I'd need to buy a new garage to fit it into. I am finding it hard to find a good shop period. I am seriously considering Terry Lawell's shop (LMS). Although he mostly works on eeuropean cars ... from what I've heard he's really good and has cars in his shop that are insane (orange lambo). GForce made so many bad ... and I mean BAD screw ups (like leaving the tranny drain screw unscrewed so fluid leaked out for 2 weeks before I noticed). I would love to learn to work on my own car ... I need to get a daily driver next week. Have you gone out to MSR yet?

 

AU N EGL - Aren't some cross-drilled rotors like Brembos and Stop Techs better then the manufacturer who drills a whole rotor? I researched this before I bought my brakes and was under the impression that when they are made that way the holes are great for cooling and weight savings. Thats why the Porsche & Ferrari brakes are so good.

FYI - All the guys I've seen at the track like the slotted Stop Techs.

 

For the record ... here is what I currently have in the car so folks don't waste thier time recommending the things I already have:

Safety:
*CrossBar (for harness)
*Corbeau seat
*G-Force 5-pt camlock
(I understand the 6th pt is to "protect the family jewels which I have none! )
*Simpson Helmet and Gloves (hate the gloves ... too big!)

Suspension:
*T1 Sway bars w/ endlinks
*Billstein sport shocks (switching back to the 04 stockers ... I think they're better. Opinions please?)

Brakes:
*Hawk D731 pads (changing)
*Eradispeed Rotors (coming off as well, per remmendations)

Power:
*AntiVenom Intake (FRC Tom)
*Kooks 1 7/8" headers with Kooks Hi-Flo Cats
*Borla Quad Tip Stingers

Misc:
*Spec III Clutch with Aluminum Flywheel
*300M Output Shaft
*Hardened Axel Shaft

It's looking like I need tires, brakes (rotors, pads and lines), alignment, rod ends with heat tape, and oil, transmission, front brake coolers ... AND LOTS OF TRACK TIME!

Point taken ... looks like I'm down for the Castrol. Question ... wouldn't it be better going with a cheaper fluid and changing it after each track event?



Joe at Phoenix Performance has some used T1 shocks for sale that are in good condition I'm thinking about getting. What'chu think?

 

Brembo is a marketing company and make very few of their own products. The Brembo rotors we see here in north america are same quality as all NA Drilled and slotted rotors, junk for track and only good for bling. StopTechs are mostly for the larger width, 1.4" vs 1.24" Any time the rotor is larger diameter and wider that will help, but even StopTech and the Brembo web sites say drilled and slotted are for mild track and mostly for Marketing. Serious track or racing should be avoided.

Cooling and weight savings are minimal and again for marketing as the customer wants them, No real value other then that. One needs to get into and read the technical sides or white papers and samll print.

Here is a big 14" and 1.4" wide brembo rotor on a porsche GT3. 4 hours or track time and the rotor is cracked.


I have ridden in many Porsches with Big Brembo BBKs, driven two and been on track with many many Porsches, evens some GT3 RSR race cars. I believe my stock PBR corvette calipers stop better and in a sorterd distance then Porsche brakes ( flame suit on). Maybe I have bigger nads and less brains most likely it is differnt braking styles.


Here are some pictures of brakes off Grand-Am cars. Tell me where are those drilled or cast in holes with camfers?? You dont see them.

Brembo


APRacing


PFC

 

The question of useing Motul or ATE Superblue, depends on a few things.

How many events a year do you do and how hard do you brake??

I used Superblue one year because I did not want to spend $60-65/ litter on SRF. I did 17 evetns that year. Before each event I did a full flush and during that weekend a good bleed. so 3 Bottles were used. 3x $7 was $21 then 17 events was $357 in brake fluid for the year.
PPlus I all the time in bleading brakes and before and during the weekend.

Next year I switched to SRF. First thing I noticed NO BRAKE FADE, so no bleeding during the weekend.

3 bottles for the YEAR, before each weekend I would bleed a little out of each caliper. 3x $65 = $195 OK which one was less expesive??

as fars a clutches go stick with the stock clutch, Yes it is heavy and you loose 2or 3 ponies but can take much more abuse. All the T1 races use the stock clutch. ALmost all the guys I know who changed clutchs have problems. Just syphine out the old clutch fluid and replace before each weekend. Clutch fluid is really DOT 3 brake fluid.

Like power steering fluid, also syphine out before each weekend and replace. power steering fluid is ATF ( Automatic Trans fluid) just a differnt color. Mobil 1 ATF

Last year I took my trans an clutch out to examine and rebuild. After 2 years and close to 40 events / weekends. No problems. The stock clutch plat had minor burn problems, ( I dont drag race or do drag starts, ) and put it back in. The trans ( stock MN6) was in great shape with minor wear on the 3rd gear combination( simple terms).
I change my trans and diff fluids every 4 events.

after this year my car 2003 will have 3 full years or close to 45 weekends on ( only have 24,000 mile on it ~ 17,000 on the track) it maybe time to build a new track car from the frame rails up, or drop in an LS2 World challange engine and drive train.

Items to be changed every off season:

wheel bears, studs and lug nuts
valve springs

 

Your time, trial & error and experience on the track is awesome, thanks for the info! I'll keep my cross-drilled until the crack. When that happens I'll go to solid rotors

 

Ok, Ok ........ I am going to start using Castrol SRF ....... I can't take it anymore

But where do you get this ...... I can't find it at any local autoparts ???


DH

 

Local parts stores ? Howie your funny.

http://www.raceshopper.com/castrol_s...ke_fluid.shtml

$63 / liter

 

Thanks Tom

I will order and put it in before my next track day. Really havn't had any problems with my Prestone DOT4 but like I said ..... I can't take it anymore....Castrol SRF,Castrol SRF,Castrol SRF,Castrol SRF

BTW what is the actual capacity of the entire brake system....master,lines and calipers. I assume this stuff will mix with the Prestone DOT4. Is it a different color that I can see when I'm bleedin......???

PS: Glad I made your day


DH

 

SRF is not to be mixed with any other brake fluid.

Talk a full liter and bleed it though the lines. Make sure to refill the MC as needed.

Then about 1/2 liter to fill. The othe 1 1/2 liters will last you the remander of the year. before each weekend bleed a little out of each caliper and your good to go.

Dang I need get commisions

 

Not to get too far off topic of the thread but while we have all the experts in here that do this stuff all the time. Exactly what is the correct way to bleed the brakes on one of these cars? I have read on this forum that you can't bleed the brakes without a Tech2 which I find hard to believe. Do the speed bleeders with the built in check valves work or do you have to have two people?

BTW: Great info in this thread!

 

I use a Motive Power bleeder with 10-15 psi of pressure. Attach a tygon tube to the end of the bleed valve. have the other end of the tygon tube draining into a 12ox clear platic coke bottle ( drill hole in cap to thread tygon tube though)

Open up bleed valve with 10mm and watch the fluid go though. You will see the color change.

do this to two calipers, then check the level in the MC and repeat.

With the speed bleeders I would advise you still have some one pump the brake peadle 3 or 4 times and hold it down as you bleed the lines.

dont need tech II. both ways aboe open the ABS and your fine.