I've decided to take this roadracing thing a little more seriously and I'm trying to get my car ready for future track days; however, I need you guys' advice on a few of things. I'm hoping you can help me out.

Ok ... here we go:
1. Which brand of brake pads to use with Eradispeed rotors.

I currently have the Hawk HP Plus (Ferro-Carbon Club/AutoX) Pads and they are just about done. Is there something just as good or better that isn't so loud? The squeeking get's old quick! My rotors are almost spent as well. Should I go with slotted vs. ported next time due to cracking?

2. Coolers ... Oil and Transmission.

I don't have either and it's going to get REAL hot and soon. Do I want to stay away from the combo oil/tranny cooler like if been told?

3. Tires ...

I've heard Hoosier and Kuhmo are the better roadracing slicks offered. However, I am leaning towards the Nitto NT-01. Is this a bad choice ... has anyone run the Nitto's and the Hoosier/Kuhmo's to offer a comparison on performance and tire wear?

4. Good prefab cage/rollbar manufacturers ...

I have dreaded putting anything other than my harness bar in the car because this is my daily driver ... at least for now it is. But I've been told that I really should have something to protect me and I agree. Would a rollbar be sufficient or should I have a cage? Just in case it matters ... the track is Texas World Speedway ...

If anyone has connections on any of these items ... please, if you could, let me know. As you know ... this can get expensive quick!

Thanks in advance for your help!
Stephanie

 

You might want to post this on the road racing and autocross forum...

 

Take off the Eradispeeds and get some NAPA rabestous plain side rotors for $27 each You dont want anything to do with Drilled slotted rotors or even slotted only on the track. Too expseive and they will crack sooner then latter.

Brake pads Get the C5 ZO6 pads for a great all around brake pad. Beyond that race pads ( which must be changed ) Wilwood H, PFC-01, Carbotechs, Hawk DT70s and be prepaed for LOTS OF DUST.

Dont forget the DRM Bake cooling duct extensions and DOT 4 brake fluid. the brake fluid MUST be changed before each track weekend. No excuses. Motul, Superblue and Castrol SRF are the top brake fluid braknds

There is the GPPP T1 set up. Must ppl get the bigger radiator with oil cooler combo and a sepeate GMPP trans cooler.

Start off with the Nittos as you can drive on them to and from the track. With Hoosiers ( which I run) and Kuhmos you must trailer in your extra wheels or your whole car. Hoosiers and Kuhmos are NOT to be street driven.

DONT USE a PREFAB cage, they are junk. Installing a cage may not be in yoru best interest as they do not come out and the value of yoru car just dropped in 1/2. Coupes and ZO6s have a supper stong B piller. Use the harness bar and race seats ( sparko, Ultra-shield, Kirky ) to name a few. Hint race seats do not come in leather or have ajustbale seat rails. and a 6 point harness system.

Actullly Stephanie just put on fresh brake pads, DOT 4 brake fluid and change your oil then go do 3-7 HPDEs track weekends with what you have before spending several 1000 dollars on mods. Then as you talk to ppl about what they have done.


Come on over to the General - Corvette - Autocross & Roadraceing forum. That is where all the track junkies hang out and bench race

 

AU N EGL like always said it all. Check out the roadrace and auto-x section, the forum is crawling with track junkies that can help you out.
Our company makes a ton of products to help a track car perform during race conditions. But you don't need to spend a ton of money at the begining.

Randy
www.dougrippie.com

 

All the things that Tom has recommended are a good starting place.

One other item that is just coming on the market as a kit is the L.G. Motorsports combination transmission-differential cooler. This system uses the pinion gear to drive the pump and everything is mounted in the rear of the vehicle.

I am installing one on my Z06 when it comes out of storage in April.

Good luck!

.

 

I have seen the aftermath of brake failures caused by exploding cross-drilled rotors.

I have never had a problem with my slotted rotors even at TWS.

However, you are less likely to break your transmission main shaft road racing like you did at HRP drag racing. You will wear out other parts though a lot faster, springs, shocks, bushings, brakes, ....etc. One thing also. Since you have a fairly large cam in your car you need to budget in frequent spring replacements. Road racing engines spend a lot of time at high rpm which wear out the stiffer springs used on larger cams real quick. Spring breakage isn't were you want to go either. None of these racing hobbies are cheap. Just break different stuff usually.

I would pick a class you want to run in. Either SCCA T2, NCCC Division 2---etc. and see what the rules require. You will be limited in which classes you can be in due to your engine mods. Then see what equipment they require. Only get a roll cage if you have to have it for your class.

Next time at HRP just come out with some drag radials. Spinning equals not breaking transmissions and differentials. You broke last time because you dead-hooked on those M/T ET Streets. Plus if you
spin a little I just might beat you for once.

 

before spending a ton do the basics and run on street tires. Once you decide which direction you want to go then put together a list of things you need and start shopping around for the best deals.

You are correct it does add up quick. As for me, I never use to buy used anything because I always wanted new until I started to get into this. I now look for used stuff that I know is in good shape. I then have money left for things that are important that I would not trust being used.

remember there is a huge learning curve so take your time....

 

Track junkies ????? HEY I resemble that remark

 

Here are the most necessary:

Set of slotted rotors (not drilled)
Racing Brake Pads
Steel Brake Lines
Motul Brake Fluid
DRM or LGM Front Brake Ducts
1 extra Qt. of Oil
Harness Bar and Harness (provided you have sport seats)
Radiator/Oil Cooler Combo
Kevlar Boots over the Toe/Tie Ends
Stiffer Sway Bars (Vette Brakes or Hotchkiss)

If you want to take it a step further

Racing Buckets
DRM Chasis Stiffener (rear roll cage)
Tunnel Plate
Vette Brakes Extreme Suspension Set-up (springs, sway bars, sway bar links and joints, dampners) - (coil-overs are obviously the best choice for racing but unless you have a place that has scales and knows what they are doing like DRM or LGM, I wouldn't bother)
Poly-Bushing Kit
Rear/Tranny Cooler (I too am installing the LGM kit mentioned above)
Canton Accusump (for a pressurized oil system)
Six Pot Front/Four Pot Rear Brake Set-Up

I think that unless you are going to track the car very often (3-4 times a month) you will see a major improvement with the first set of changes. You should see less brake fade and keep the car a bit cooler.

 

How many events have you done?

 

John,

Is that your C5 in the signature? Are the rear brake ducts functional. I want to tub my rear but the LPE kit gets rid of your brake ducts which I don't want to loose. Is there someone making a racing rear tub kit?

 

yes but my diff and tranny cooler are in there. Wide tires kept inboard will preclude the ducts.

 

Learning and gaining experience on how to drive the car to its fullest capability in a stock configuration is way more important than brake upgrades, R compound tires or other mods. We have a female CF member out here on the left coast who can run faster than 90% of the guys (me included) driving a stock C5 Z06 with just a track alignment.

 

More like 98.5%

 

Lots of good advice here, so I have little to add. I'm kind of bit by the track bug as well, and you will likely see me out at TWS sometime, trying to figure out the back sequence.

I can add this: I ran on street tires for almost a year at the track. It makes a great learning experience. They were the stock GY tires.

I got some excellent advice from one of the instructors: Make changes slowly, and get used to them. If you track your car stock in March and come back in June with R compound tires, big brakes, intake/exhaust job and a track alignment, you will be driving a different car and will have to learn all over again. Slow in/fast out isn't just about turning corners.

The changes I'm making to the car are designed to allow me to run in Texas, all year. That means steel braided brake lines and DOT 4 fluid, a harness bar and a radiator/oil cooler. I run relatively mild Carbotech pads, and have just moved on to wider slicker tires. I'm trying to lose weight, as that's some of the cheapest horsepower you can make. That's it.

Good maintenance routines will keep the car running. Spend money on seat time, would be my last bit of opinion. See you out there, and keep it smooth.
--Yak

 

I'm new to this forum but I'm just building up a C5 for road race up here on the west coast of Canada. Mission BC Canada.
I have an 88 C4 that we have road raced for about 4 years now in a production class and we use Kumho Victoracer 315-35x17 on the gm grandsport 17x11's on all corners. This car sees about 8-10 race weekends per year with two drivers.
We use about two sets per season and think they are great.
we use Performance Friction Pads front and rear are no brake issues on a small track. (SCCBC.NET).
Now I need to start reading about all this C5 stuff as the two cars are totally different as you all know.

 

Uhh.......make it 99%


DH

 

WOW! What a response. I really appreciate all of your efforts and will respond to each of you ...

DONE!

I have the Hawk D731 pads ... which of the ones you recommended give you the most bang for the buck?

What is this?

What do you know about Valvoline SynPower fluid? I know that its boiling point is 100 degrees higher than stock fluid, but is that good enough? Isn't Castrol like $80/QT?

That is exactly what I've heard about prefab cages ... a guy on Z06Vette recommended this ... "An alternate would be to have the back half of the cage installed for starters, and add the cage if you want later. Search for Member MYSR71 who went this route with Phoenix Perf, and was still able to retain stock belts due to minor relocation of main hoop." What do you think about that idea?
As for the seat and harness ... I have a Corbeau seat, crossbar and 5pt (not 6). BTW ... where does the 6th come into the deal?

I've done 5 track days and am now ready to take it to the next level ... that's why I've come to you guys. I am hooked ... and BADLY! I would sleep at the track if I could. I know that I can improve greatly ... and I'm ready to get to work. Is there anyway I can move this thread to the section you recommended? I must say ... I have received a wealth of information were it sits ... thanks guys!

Next ...
I've heard nothing but great things about you guys' products. Randy ... I'll be in touch with you soon ... for sure! Thanks Randy.

Next ...
Have we met? Were you there that night? I decided to get rid of the slicks then and there. That happened over a month ago and I've been out to the track twice since then and have not run ... I am too scared to break the car again. I normally launch the car at 6200, but that night I took it easy launching at 5K since it was my first pass since melting my 2nd Spec clutch in 6 months. I couldn't believe it when that happened. I'd rather break the car roadracing anyway! All that money and hell for eleven seconds is not even worth the trouble.

Who works on your car? Let me know when you go out to TWS, HRP or MSR next time ... if I'm free I'd love to join you.

Next ...
Great point and well taken ... what do you think about buying used T1 shocks?

[QUOTE=Wicked Weasel] remember there is a huge learning curve so take your time....[/QOUTE]
GOD HELP ME!

Next ...
JESUS! Here is what I have so far is ... thank goodness it's something.
Race pads
Getting rid of the Eradispeed rotors
Valvoline SynPower Fliud ... is this not a good idea?
CrossBar with 5pt/Corbeau seat
T1 Bars
Billstein Shocks

... looks like I have some checks to write. DAMN!
Thanks for the list ... I will print it out and save it.

Next ...
John ... I've done 5 events at TWS and attended Skip Barber at Laguna in 2004.

Next ...
Point taken Joe. I was running 2.09 laps on the 2.8 (I think) mile course on street tires my second time out. I know ... I have a ton of room for improvement. As everyone that does this knows ... getting that extra 2, 3, 4 tenth's of a second out of a lap are like pulling a 200 lb. tuna out of the ocean with a broken arm. It's difficult! Does anyone know the fastest lap times at TWS (2.8 mile) in a Z06 with street tires? I'd love to know.

Thanks again to everyone who took the time to post all this awesome information. I will continue to check the thread and not get discouraged. If any of the Texas members plan on going to TWS, MSR or HRP ... please PM me to let me know. If by chance you see a 5'4" girl in a silver Z at any of the tracks it may be me. Please come and introduce yourself. I'd love to meet you guys.

 

Good pads. Just watch the dust and wash your car right after the weekends. Hawk dust tends to eat paint.


Doug Rippie Motorsports ( below brake duct extensions to put cold air onto the brakes and keep those puppies temps down.



Valvoline Synpower is OK FOR street but your getting to the point you want and need more of a race fluid. Motul is the more econmical and a little better then Superblue. Castrol SRF ( what John, I and many others use) is by far the best brake fluid. Yes it is $80 / liter but well worth the cost of 3 liters will last a whole track season. vs 3 lites per weekend of any other brake fluid.


DOnt thing Pheonix will do a partial cage. I asked them about that 3 years ago and at that time they said no. The did lots of other work on my car. But yes you could get a partial cage put in but again, it wont come out so once your car goes 1/2 way might as well do the whole cage and make it a dedicated race car.

If your going to make it a dedicated race car then need to check the rules of the orgainzation you want to race with. SCCA T1 is almost stock with supenssion and saftey equimpent.

If you have a 5-ppoint belt on Sparco seats your fine. The 6-points two sub belts are just that 2 sub belts instead of one.


[quote]I've done 5 track days and am now ready to take it to the next level ... that's why I've come to you guys. I am hooked ... and BADLY! I would sleep at the track if I could. I know that I can improve greatly ... and I'm ready to get to work. Is there anyway I can move this thread to the section you recommended? I must say ... I have received a wealth of information were it sits ... thanks guys!

Next ...

( Lost in Space Robot immitation)
WARRNING - WARRNING

Guys like FAST WOMEN . . .




On the track that is.


Go get um Steph

 

I was with Phoenix Performance this week and Kurt said they would not do a partial cage. They feel it is not safe enough and dont want people to have a false sense of security with a partial cage.