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Help! 1997 Wont Run!

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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 05:38 PM
  #21  
ITLLFLI's Avatar
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Thanks for all the help! I pretty much narrowed it down to the PCM being bad. BUT waht I was afraid of was buying a new PCM and frying it! SO....I called 6 dealers in my area and talked with their "vette specialist." Steve from Terry Lee Chevrolet seemed to be the sharpest I talked with! I delivered it monday and he had it ready by noon tuesday! It WAS the PCM! I was prepared for a $1000 bill but I got out of there for under $500!!

Bad PCM
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 05:48 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ITLLFLI
11.99 with key OFF
11.65 with Key ON
With the IPC reading 8 volts (when it would read), with this kind of voltage drop there's got to be a broken/corroded wire/terminal/connection somewhere.

Can you tell if you've got any electrolyte leaking down below the battery box?

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 05:59 PM
  #23  
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hey i had same problems, tightin ur battery turminals, and put in a little more gas, i have a 97 too, but i heard that if you run ur car completly out of gas then u have to get a new fuel pump but ya just some ideas
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 09:08 PM
  #24  
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This sounds just like a bad ignition switch. With the ignition ON and the engine off, check your battery with a voltmeter *at the battery terminals*. If the voltage is around 12 and your IPC voltmeter reads 8 than I'm pretty certain you have a bad section in your ignition switch.

See the following post:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1372316

C5_Pewter_Vette
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #25  
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need some help the bolt for ground 1997 behind drivers side rear wheel broke off how is it put into the frame. thanks george
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 02:23 PM
  #26  
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Been there did that!!! Not difficult to fix! Just grind, file or sand the area flat, purchase a self tapping screw (Home Depot) drill the correct size hole for the screw to tap into and screw it into the hole. Your done:





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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #27  
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thanks bill i'll do that. been reading your fix for not starting. i'll do all then if don't work i'll ask again. george
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 07:20 PM
  #28  
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bill: thanks i repared the ground wire behind drivers tire. wire was clean no rust just broke off the bolt when removing it. checked the one on the pass side removed was also clean sanded a little added some dieelectric grease and replaced. this did not let the fuel pump run when turning on the key. checked fuel pump fuse ok unplugged fuel pump @ left tank. removed fuel pump fuse. put fuse back in replugged in fuel pump at tank. turn on key pump would run. started car ran aprox 2 minutes and stopped.at this point here are the codes.
10 pcm (2) p1626h p1571h
28 tcs (1) c1242h
38 rtd no comm
40 bcm (2) b 0432h c b2527h
60 ipc no codes
80 radio (1) u1016h
99 hvac no codes
ao ldcm no codes
a1 rdcm no codes
a6 scm no comm
bo rfa no codes
this problem started about 3 months ago, car stopped with 1/4 tank gas. added gas 5 gal it started. checked with gm they had a service bulletin you used the julian codes on each tank as to what to replace put in a new fuel gauge and strainer assy in left tank. gas back in started and ran good. filled tank full and ran down to 1/2 and car quit. gauge still read 1/2. turn on key and pump would run. so removed pump from left side tank m/t but took 7 gal plus from right tank. so replaced pump on right tank seemed like the check valve was plugged. back together 2 gal gas and started good to station filled up . 20 miles and quit again. fuel pump would not run. i have got the car to run two times by pulling fuse from fuel pump unplugging the wire at fuel pump waiting a few minutes and fuse back in then wire back on pump . but only runs a couple minutes. good anti theft system ha ha where should i look from here. thanks george
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