Lucky you. My dad and I both missed it. Live and learn I say

 

so far i like them. the sound came back to my car after the istall. the x pipe i put on made the car seem way mellower to me. the headers brought back the v8 rumble. i have corsa mufflers. the fitment was perfect. right in bolt up easy. the quality seems there. heavey gauge stainless. i should have sent them to be jet hot coated. it would look better and help with the heat issues. the only real problem was the code that popped up. but it has been three days now and its staying gone. it is kinda a pain to find nice long full thread grade 8 and above metric bolts and locking nuts for the flanges though. i finally found them after 5 different places and then my sons college auto teacher told me about a specialty fastener place right by my house oh the time would have taken about 4 hrs for me but...... i got sidetracked with some and me and the kid replaced the belts. and plugs and just looked around at the underside of the car while the wife went and got more so started the project at 1:00pm finished at 11:30pm

 

the p0410 H C code has reared its ugly head again.

made it a whole week. i was going to work and blink, the check engine light again!!!! checked the codes and wouldn't ya know. P0410 H C again. this thing is a pain!!!!
what now???????

help

 

Double check the plug wires again. Make sure they are still on there tight. Go back through the trouble shooting process that cleared the code the first time and see if the problem goes away.

 

i cleared the codes by hitting the reset button. i wondered if the wires would wiggle loose again. the car drives fine. i will checked the wires again!! i dont want to keep resetting the DIC though. i need to find the problem.

 

Hmmm, looks like it's persistant.

 

it is being a real PITA!!!!

 

if it makes you feel any better, my fob still doesn't work. :bb

 

Do you have access to a decent scan tool w/ bi-directional controls? If so you can observe the front O2 signals and turn on the AIR pump and solenoid. You should see the O2s respond accordingly (i.e. go low.) One other thought is to check and make sure the two AIR-related fuses aren't blown.

 

these darn electronics

 

i have this at work, well the tech's do!!! i guess its time to let them play with it.... maybe i can get one to do it off the dlr clock i hate that $85 an hr stuff i guess if i knew i could get it fixed for $85 that would be a great deal!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well, there are only a limited number of things that could be causing it. You're either not able to get air through the tubes or you're not commanding air to go through the tubes. If you're not able to get air it's fuses, circuits, solenoids, air pump, or plumbing. If you're not commanding air, it's likely a problem within the PCM (which is relatively unlikely.) Maybe the techs will let you borrow a scan tool.

Can you hear the AIR pump come on?

 

yup... the air pump turns on. the air is comming thru the tube to the driver side check valve. (i took it off and it goes gurgle gurgle blubbla blubbla ) does blow air. when i did this install i blew thru that check valve. it blew one way only. so i assume it works... the tubes on the headers appeared fine. they have even been welded again to strenghten them on one connection. i have checked every part of the plumbing for the air pump air. it seems fine. checked like twenty times. one of my top chevrolet techs came out today and changed my air pump relay fuse with the fog lamp relay. he says they are the same. he was a little peeved at me for resetting it twice. he says the freeze frame part of the code would have helped him figure it out. i have some world class techs at my store. i just dont want them to know i cant figure this out. i told them all i could do this mod and they said "yeh sure".
someone has to help me get this damn p0410 code to go away!!!! my dignity is at stake!!!! the tech that helped today was impressed with the knoweledge i had about codes. and about shi^ when i showed him how i was able to clear the codes!!!!!!! he laughed and said i should not tell the rest of the public he is a great guy. he isn't the tech i usually use for the vette. but he is the guy i recomend for any other car/truck to friends and family. my vette guy would have been insulted i tried to go around him he is good, but soooo not the help you out kinda guy when it comes to off the clock. even if it nets him more cash than running it thru work i asked him about using the scan tool to diagnos the trouble code. his response to me. " tech's dianose the problem, thats just a tool they use" the other guy told me today for a small fee of oh say a BBQ and beers that tool could be used along with his knowledge of how any time!!!!
i still want to show them this monkey suit wearing, clean finger nails having, sales manager can figure this out!!!!!! its the proving i can that matters. heck, my service writer tells me my warranty will cover this. its now the principal of it, I HAVE TO FIGURE IT OUT!!!!!!!! to save face!!!!!!!! or manhood or something. its a pride issue. heck my wife has even offered to bring it in and pay for the repairs just to get me back in the house instead of the garage help its consuming my life

 

Okay, that sounds like it verifies that a lot of stuff is working correctly. You still don't know that you have air in each header though.

There's a potential culprit. If the tubes became blocked, it wouldn't matter if air is getting to them.

He'll get over it.

The first tech is right, but remember you don't have to understand the whole car to diagnose this - just this system.

It's always tough when it becomes a matter of dignity. Brings back fond memories of Dad stuggling to get plumbing working again, completely unwilling to call a plumber. That seemed to be his nemesis.

So it sounds like everything looks okay and you have air up to the check valve. You need to verify it's actually making it into the exhaust stream (in sufficient amount.) You can do this fairly easily using a scan tool. The idea is to monitor the front O2 sensor values and turn on the AIR pump and solenoid as happens when it's first warming up. When the pump turns on and pumps air into the exhaust stream, you should see the O2 values drop to around 350mV or so. They need to be well below 450mV. If they don't drop and remain low while you have the pump on, you have either some sort of restriction (thinking back to welding up those headers) or the pump just isn't pumping enough. (The caveat to "remain low" might be that if you do this when it's warmed up and in closed loop that the fuel trimming might try to correct by adding fuel and the O2 values would climb back up. It's more important that it gets low enough than that it stays there.) You might consider looking at another car for reference to confirm the volume of air you should expect to see at the check valve (i.e. you see some, but is it enough?) if you're worried about whether or not the pump can pump enough.

Hang in there and tell your wife it's not like there are children going to school unwashed because you're being stubborn.

 

Thanks for this tip! After a head and cam change with the battery disconnected for sometime, both my fobs stopped working. Your tip worked like a charm! Thanks again

 

rgtkst, any news?

 

well, the thing worked for 2 more weeks after the last reset. then, saturday i was talking with one of my mechanics about it at work. he asked if it had happened lately. i replied no. then that same day, on the way home, BLINK the light came on. what is going on?? does this thing hear me and decide to turn on just to bug me.
now it is the p1415 code.