Sorry to hear about the damage but damn I wish you lived close by. You seem to know alot about motors as is evident by your ability to completely tear apart the motor. I wish I had the guts/cajones to do that. I need a new project car so I can learn to do that stuff. Good luck on everything.

 

Pictures can be decieveing, but seeing as much damage tithe #7 piston as there is, could you have been THAT lucky that you didn't get even a little scoring of the sleeve? If you did get lucky, can you get a bore guage and check the roundness? If they are good, check the rods for bends-cracks, and make sure the mains are ok. If you got lucky that far, I've seen forged pistons here. Pistons.
You can get it out from the top. You may want to yank the passenger's side head to before that. Also, I think you have to purge and disconnect the air-conditioner stuff if going from the top.

 

i was just cruising to work about 70 in 6th gear.

nocar: you don't live far at all, and i'll sell you this nice project car if you would like.

arkay: thanks for that good link

i'll post more pics as i go. it'll probably be a while, life is busy and i work really slow.

 

I know that you can pull the motor from the top just did it on my 99 frc. You should unbolt the h2o pump the sterring, you do not have to crack the ac lines as you can just rmv the 4 bolts that hold it to the bolt (one is a stud but it has a 8mm nut on the end) then you can just let it lay there. Rmv the fans unplug wiring and lift it out. You will have to drop the front cross member and pull the steering column shaft off the racking rack. unbolt abs five bolts and let it float. Four bolts hold the croos member in place, you can drop it down about 3-4inches to clear the damper. You do not even have to pull the bell housing you can pull the five bolts that hold motor to bell housing. You don't have to rmv the other head, but you can. put front of car on jack stands or lift and put a jack under the cross-member and lower it down a little once motor is free lift it out with a hoist. It took more time to get the parts, like a tap for the 11mx2.0 pitch head bolts, or the wrong head gaskets 3x's or the wrong head bolts 04 instead of the 97-03 style. But now it is at Dragon for dyno tuning. P.S. do a new clutch while you have it out! avoid luc/gm as it is same thing as stock. Do a spec or other top brand for the extra 2 bills it is worth it.

 

thanks for the tips!
it definately needs a new clutch. i didn't even get 1 good pass after i bought the mickeys kinda good this happened before i did the clutch or i would be REALLY pissed!

 

with all the choices on parts, i dont' know the best way, so i figured out the cheap way. what do yall think on these parts.

scat forged rods = $289 (would these be better than stock? thats so cheap)

mahle pistons, pins, rings = $500 (3.905 bore, 3.622 stroke, 6.125 rod, -4cc dish)

patriot heads (59cc chamber)

i think this would put my comp ratio right around 10.84
i'd guess it'd make @400 rwhp

thoughts?

 

A couple of things I'm wondering about.
1: With changing the pistons and conn rods, are you going to have the rotating assembly balanced?
2: If you balance the assembly, you probably should put new main bearings in
3: How are the cam, lifters, and pushrods?
4: If I were going to do all that work, you are basically forging the rotating assembly but not blueprinting the block, I would recommend having the block blueprinted to your new assembly and having the rotating assembly balanced.
5: I would go with a set of AFR heads, milled .030", and use Cometic .040" gaskets for a nice tight quench.
6: I would put in a Comp XE-R grind 224/228 .581"/.588" on a 114LSA with +1 degree advance ground in.
On a stock rotating assembly I would think you'd see ~430 to the rear wheels with an LS6 intake and stock TB and headers.
Just my $.02 and there could be a lot of controversy about that since there are many other combo's that would work well. I have experience with this setup, except my cam is a 112lsa and I know what to expect from it.

 

After thinking about this for a minute I'd like to suggest that you PM Phil97SVT. He has done a couple of forged buildups and does all his own work. He has helped me in the past. I hope he doesn't mind me suggesting this.

 

my plan was to replace the main bearings and have it balanced. there are so many "well if i'm gonna do this, i might as well do this also", it's hard to find a place to stop. definately no can do on AFR's. infact, i may scrap the partriot heads and try and find someone to port some stock ones. funds are low right now.

i'm not sure what cam is in the car, but hopefully i will get it out tonight and can find a part number. the pushrods will be replaced. i need to get a pic of one, it's kind of bent lol.