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i was driving down the highway and noticed i had no power. it's running very poorly now. i get a p0101 code so i hooked up a spare maf but it runs the same. thats the only pcm code i get.
i unplugged one coil bank and it ran the same. plugged it back in, unplugged the other coil bank and it ran the same. unplugged them both and it died, but i thought it was strange it ran the same when one side or the other were unplugged.
the intake is full of oil and gas, but i can't tell where it is coming from. it was back firing through the intake, so that may be it, although it's a lot of oil.
pulled the passenger valve cover off and no visible damage there.
pulled the intake off and everything looked ok.
Well seeing that you have not put any info into your FORUM INFORMATION and have failed to tell us what year car it is (it does make a difference), what mods you have or don't have, what work if any has or was done to the car, and if you have an relevant DTC codes, not many people are going to be able to help you with any factual information.
Please provide the information and provide us the DTC Code information from the DIC. Make sure that you also include the H or C suffix:
P-0101 ( MAF Performance) is the DTC that is causing you grief! Are you sure that the connections between the MAF and the Throttle Body are tight ???
If so, Try un-plugging the MAF and see if the engine runs better! Yep, it will run without the MAF! Not good, but better than if the MAF is hosed
You need to get the MAF issue fixed before you worry about the other History codes!
"i get a p0101 code so i hooked up a spare maf but it runs the same."
just curious, when you say you hooked up a spare MassAir, did you simply plug it in, or did you actually install it so the intake air charge would flow through it as normal? If you tested it by simply plugging it into the wire harness, then the engine wouldn't run correctly either.
i actually installed it correctly!
i think it's major ****ed. i did a compression test on 6 cyls. all between 180 and 210. 1 plug wouldn't come out and it felt like i was stripping it when it would turn.
i actually installed it correctly!
i think it's major ****ed. i did a compression test on 6 cyls. all between 180 and 210. 1 plug wouldn't come out and it felt like i was stripping it when it would turn.
Well, now you HAVE to get it out. The spark plug holes can be helicoiled, but your best bet would be to take the head off and bring it to a machine shop. I had a stripped header bolt in one of mine and helicoiled it while on the car. I made a little wooden jig to keep the tap straight. I don't know if I'd chance it with a spark plug hole though.
BTW, like Bill said, a P0101 is an MAF performance DTC. It means the PCM doesn't think the MAF is accurate or tracking airflow properly. You said you installed a second MAF and it didn't help. I would check the harness connector, and then the wiring against the schematic. There is a voltage reference line, not sure, I don't have it in front of me, that could be frayed or broken in the jacket giving noisey readings.
Sorry to hear of your problems.
Try spraying some good penetrating oil on the plug. If it is part way out, maybe some of it will soak in. I use PB Blaster and it seems to work well. Sea Foam makes something called CREEP. It is suppose to be really good! Try loosening and tightening, loosening and tightening it. Keep applying penitrating oil and letting it soak. Sometimes that will work it out. What ever you do,, make sure that the engine is cold when you work on the plugs!
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Apr 24, 2006 at 11:45 AM.
i think it's major ****ed. i did a compression test on 6 cyls. all between 180 and 210. 1 plug wouldn't come out and it felt like i was stripping it when it would turn.
doesn't a compression reading of 210 equate to approx 14.3:1 compression ratio?
well i pulled the drivers valve cover off tonight and found a broken valve spring.
I guess you do have a cam then. Are they single or dual springs? Did the valve drop? Hopefully the spring kept the valve up.
How did you make out with the spark plug?
they aren't dual springs, they look like they could be factory but i don't know much about ls1's yet. the valve is up right now. i didn't mess with the plug anymore and i was so dead tired last night, i can't even remember if it was the same cyl that has the broken spring or not.
i ordered some new yellow z06 springs off ebay for $60.
man i love working on these motors compared to the old ford 5.0's i'm used to. i seriously need to put one in my mustang.
they aren't dual springs, they look like they could be factory but i don't know much about ls1's yet. the valve is up right now. i didn't mess with the plug anymore and i was so dead tired last night, i can't even remember if it was the same cyl that has the broken spring or not.
i ordered some new yellow z06 springs off ebay for $60.
man i love working on these motors compared to the old ford 5.0's i'm used to. i seriously need to put one in my mustang.
Two things I'm concerned about, besides the plug.
1: If the valve is up, that's a good sign, BUT depending on where the break in the spring is you will have much less seat pressure. That would probably cause valve float which is what you were probably experiencing. If the valve floated and the piston was on it's way up, you could have kissed a piston or worse, put a hole in one.
2: Depending on your cam, Yellow Z06 springs may not be able to handle the lift or provide enough seat pressure to keep the valves from floating.
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From your description you seem to have a pretty mild cam, maybe a hotcam? But a hotcam isn't really much better than a stock Z06 cam. If it's a little more agressive you may have 918 springs which are much more robust than the Z06 springs. If you can, this would be a good time to measure the cam with a set of checker springs and a dial indicator. Also, check the pushrods for that hole, they could be bent. If you got lucky all you will need to do is change the spring and solve the plug gremlin. Let us know.
An LS6 in a Mustang... now there's something you don't see every day.
Try spraying some good penetrating oil on the plug. If it is part way out, maybe some of it will soak in. I use PB Blaster and it seems to work well. Sea Foam makes something called CREEP. It is suppose to be really good! Try loosening and tightening, loosening and tightening it. Keep applying penitrating oil and letting it soak. Sometimes that will work it out. What ever you do,, make sure that the engine is cold when you work on the plugs!
BC
get the engine hot then, try the above. every time you drive it spuirt it with creep and let it cool it will wick in...........good luck
soo then.... which forged pistons should i use. i'd like to put a 200 shot on it now. my friend has an extra stock head i can use. or is there a better factory head for CHEAP.
Man, that's ugly. I wonder what you'll find on the other side.
While you're at it, I'm curious if you find any evidence of piston slap or out of round cylinders during your rebuild.
Good luck
The number 7 cylinder looks like toast. As cosmictrucker wondered, you may have to pull the motor and resleeve it, OR junk it and go with a new block too. If that is the case, if you can find a good replacement head, why not just pick up a forged short-block? I'm wondering if the cam was aftermarket and the springs were stock.
Sorry to see this, that's gotta hurt.
how much is a forged short block? i was just going to pull it out and put some pistons in it cuz the cyl walls show no damage to the naked eye. or my buddy has a shortblock from a 2000 camaro i could build. it looks like forged pistons are gonna be $800??? are there any cheaper ones?
i hope i can get this motor out from the top! i found a nice write up about it.
soo then.... which forged pistons should i use. i'd like to put a 200 shot on it now. my friend has an extra stock head i can use. or is there a better factory head for CHEAP.