Clutch swap
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
Clutch swap
How hard is it to perform in a C5? I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and have swapped clutches in several Mustangs and other cars, but I've never messed with a rear transaxle setup like this car has..
If I elected to have a shop do it, what's a reasonable labor charge?
If I elected to have a shop do it, what's a reasonable labor charge?
Le Mans Master
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From: Slave to the evil empire
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St. Jude Donor '04
If you've done other clutches before this one is no different except some of the pieces you remove are larger.
The rear suspension and cradle can be removed and installed as an assembly, then remove the transmission and differential as an assembly from the torque tube, and finally unbolt the torque tube from the bellhousing. I didn't mention some of the obvious things like the exhaust and tunnel close out panel but anyone that is mechanically inclined can figure that out without being told.
The last one I did, I unbolted the rear suspension and supported the drivetrain with my tranny jack then I unbolted the torque tube from the back of the engine and pulled the whole thing free, I was doing the job by myself and it was a little awkward but went smoothly, then when I reinstalled everything I started with just the torque tube then the tranny/differential and finally the rear suspension/cradle. I put the car back together by myself in about 4 hours.
The rear suspension and cradle can be removed and installed as an assembly, then remove the transmission and differential as an assembly from the torque tube, and finally unbolt the torque tube from the bellhousing. I didn't mention some of the obvious things like the exhaust and tunnel close out panel but anyone that is mechanically inclined can figure that out without being told.
The last one I did, I unbolted the rear suspension and supported the drivetrain with my tranny jack then I unbolted the torque tube from the back of the engine and pulled the whole thing free, I was doing the job by myself and it was a little awkward but went smoothly, then when I reinstalled everything I started with just the torque tube then the tranny/differential and finally the rear suspension/cradle. I put the car back together by myself in about 4 hours.
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
Originally Posted by FFR-Z06
If you've done other clutches before this one is no different except some of the pieces you remove are larger.
The rear suspension and cradle can be removed and installed as an assembly, then remove the transmission and differential as an assembly from the torque tube, and finally unbolt the torque tube from the bellhousing. I didn't mention some of the obvious things like the exhaust and tunnel close out panel but anyone that is mechanically inclined can figure that out without being told.
The last one I did, I unbolted the rear suspension and supported the drivetrain with my tranny jack then I unbolted the torque tube from the back of the engine and pulled the whole thing free, I was doing the job by myself and it was a little awkward but went smoothly, then when I reinstalled everything I started with just the torque tube then the tranny/differential and finally the rear suspension/cradle. I put the car back together by myself in about 4 hours.
The rear suspension and cradle can be removed and installed as an assembly, then remove the transmission and differential as an assembly from the torque tube, and finally unbolt the torque tube from the bellhousing. I didn't mention some of the obvious things like the exhaust and tunnel close out panel but anyone that is mechanically inclined can figure that out without being told.
The last one I did, I unbolted the rear suspension and supported the drivetrain with my tranny jack then I unbolted the torque tube from the back of the engine and pulled the whole thing free, I was doing the job by myself and it was a little awkward but went smoothly, then when I reinstalled everything I started with just the torque tube then the tranny/differential and finally the rear suspension/cradle. I put the car back together by myself in about 4 hours.
Thanks.
That sounds like something I could pull off..
I'm having the sticking clutch problem with only 15k miles on my Z06, and I'm thinking about an upgrade..
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
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From: Aptos CA
Is your pedal sticking after a firm 1/2 gear shift?
Is your pedal sticking after a firm 1/2 gear shift? My car with 9k does. Many forum members post to remove the Clutch pedal down spring behind the pedal arm.
Originally Posted by jlking
Thanks.
That sounds like something I could pull off..
I'm having the sticking clutch problem with only 15k miles on my Z06, and I'm thinking about an upgrade..
That sounds like something I could pull off..
I'm having the sticking clutch problem with only 15k miles on my Z06, and I'm thinking about an upgrade..
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From: Slave to the evil empire
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St. Jude Donor '04
Originally Posted by torch2000vert
Is your pedal sticking after a firm 1/2 gear shift? My car with 9k does. Many forum members post to remove the Clutch pedal down spring behind the pedal arm.
That spring is a problem, the other problem is your slave cylinder probably needs to be bled which is a big job, do yourself a favor when you change your slave cylinder add a bleeder extension hose from the LAPD: http://www.thelapd.com/Merchant2/mer...e_Code=thelapd
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
Originally Posted by torch2000vert
Is your pedal sticking after a firm 1/2 gear shift? My car with 9k does. Many forum members post to remove the Clutch pedal down spring behind the pedal arm.
Mine sticks after I run it through the first 4, and then when I push it in to slow down, the clutch stays down for a few seconds and then comes up really mushy.
I went to the track a few months ago, and when I launched hard, the clutch would go soft, and car wouldn't powershift into 4th. You had to let out and grind it in.
An easy launch didn't produce the problem, but it would result in a soft clutch.
I'll go pull that spring and try it..
The clutch plate seems to grab well and there is no slipping.
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
Originally Posted by FFR-Z06
That spring is a problem, the other problem is your slave cylinder probably needs to be bled which is a big job, do yourself a favor when you change your slave cylinder add a bleeder extension hose from the LAPD: http://www.thelapd.com/Merchant2/mer...e_Code=thelapd
I'll check that out too.
I have been taking Ranger's advice and keeping the fluid fresh, and that seems to help some...
It baffles me how the clear fluid turns dark and debris filled in a matter of days...
