My 97 A4 Was Going Into Limp Mode When I Used My Nitrous. So, I Thought This Was My Problem. Well, I Disconnected My Nitrous Last Week And I Was Relieved--- So I Thought.
Well, I Raced A Mustang 3 Nights Ago And When The Car Was In 3rd Gear It Went Into Limp Mode. Again Today It Happened When In 2nd Gear.......
The Codes Are P1221 And P1571
Pleae Help- Really Is Embarassing When Sitting Along Side The Road After Giving It A Little Gas !!!
Thanks Chris

 

P1221 http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic8521.php

P1571 http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic8503.php

 

There are a couple of things that you can check. first,,is what TAC Module do you have?? The oem 97 -98 TAC modules were defective and frequently failed causing this type of problems. Second, check the throttle blade and make sure that it is free to rotate and does not bind when the ignition is off! Next check the grounds G-101, G-104 and G-102 and make sure that there clean.

Yhe tac module needs to be up graded to a newer version if it is the OEM module!

My 98 had this very same issue. Thats what fixed it!

 

Thanks Guys For The Help
This Week I Will Check Everything Out............

 

WELL, I REPLACED THE TAC MODULE.......... CHECKED THE GROUNDS AND STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM.
NOT SURE ABOUT THIS SITUATION

 

Check your Wiring harness connection to your Throttle Body. That was a problem that a friend of min had. It kept slipping loose. He pryed the prongs just enough to make it stay connected to the TB.

 

I Forgot. I Did Not Test Drive The Car. I Just Turned It On In The Driveway And Just Activated The Nitrous System And Gave It A Little Gas ( There Is No Nitrous Going Into The Motor Because I Disconected The Nozzle From The Air Intake ).
I Also Disconected The Throttle Position Wire That Lets The Car Know When To Turn The Nitrous On.
The Car Still Does The Reduced Engine Power And Says That There Is A Traction Control Problem.

 

I Just Checked The Connection. It Was Tight.
But, When I Tried To Start It After I Unplugged It And Check The Terminals For Corrosion...... It Instantly Went Into Reduced Engine Power 3 Times And Now Doent Want To Run

 

I Just Went Back Out For Another Try.
It Is Staying In The Reduced Engine Power / Service Traction Control And When I Wiggle The Wires Is Stumbles And Cuts Out.
So, I Asume That I Need A Whole New Throttle Sensor/ Injector Harness ?!?!?!
I Think The Wires Are No Good

 

At the back of the engine the wiring harness on top of the engine is routed around a black metal bracket. The bracket is sharp and can cut and chafe rhe wires causing the same type of problems. Check that harness for damage.

BC

 

thanks for the help
i'll check thursday

 

Nothing New !! Still The Same Problem.......
I Just Installed A New Tps Connector .
T Was Fine For 3 Minutes Until I Activated The Arm Switch For My Nitrous. Like I Said Befor, I Disconected The Nitrous Befor And Still Reduce Engine Power
Hheellpp.........please........

 

Help Please

 

please help

 

Let me just understand what you're saying for a second. You arm the nitrous and the problem pops up? Or does it happen when you dont' arm the nitrous too? I would stop arming the nitrous until you determine what the wiring problem is...it sounds like its making the problem worse.

 

Before I even scrolled down to your post, I was on the same page as you. IMHO, I was going to suggest that he disconnect/remove any and ALL wires/switches and check the wiring in those locations for any damage from the original nitrous install and/or damage prior to the install. And I may be outta line here but here goes: If I had a problem of this sort, I sure a hell would NOT EVEN THINK of arming/switching/activating/all of the above, anything to do with the N20!!! Whether the bottle is full, empty, turned off, or even in the car. Not being a wise guy-just tryin' ta' help. Question: Did this problem happen before the install? Or soon after? And who did the install? I have a brand new nitrous kit for sale- not tryin' to push it now, so bear with me. My Zex kit has, as I think most Zex kits for the C5 do, a TPS connection to activate the nitrous. Since you tried a new switch, it seems the problem isn't the switch itself. Maybe the connection is screwing up the TPS somehow. As I said, my new Zex kit also has a "Brain Box" that is supposed to automatically mix/keep the fuel/nitrous mix in perfect ratio, depending on bottle pressure. If yours also has this "B.B.", maybe it has "brain damage", and it defaults to a limp home mode rather than cooking the engine. I don't know how old the kit is or who made it, but maybe the manufacturer could shed some light on it, or warranty it if it is on the new side. Good luck.

 

also check your battery terminals. my car did the same thing and the first thing i checked was the teerminals. I ended up having a little play on the negative terminal. I tightened it up adn it went away. problem solved. Maybe this is what is going on

 

Thanks For The Tips.
Here Is The Deal. The Reason I Activate The Nitrous Is Because My Car Does Not Always Go Into Limp Mode All The Time. So What I Do Is : Try One Fix At A Time And Then Drive The Car For 10 Minutes And Then Hit The Switch Just To See If That Still Sets It Off. Because It Is Dangerous If I Think Everything Is Ok And Then All Of A Sudden The Car Goes Into Limp Mode In Traffic Or At Any Other Point On The Roads Without Hitting The Activation Switch.
My Box Zex System Is 7 Months Old. And Yes I Would Buy Another One.
But Ive Used My Zex System Alot With No Problems.
And Remember That My Car Goes Into Reduced Engine Power Without The Nitrous.. Just Not As Much. Thats Why I Dont Think It Is The Zex Kit Doing It

 

Please explain (and include pictures if you can) of where and how the N02 electrical hook-ups are attached.

It may help out troubleshooting.

BC

 

I Have The Zex Throttle Activated System.
From The "box" One White Wire Goes To The Tps ( For Wide Open Throttle Activation). This Wire Is Connected To The Third Wire From The Bottom Of The Connector / Throttle Body... This Is The Correct Wire.
The Other Is A Black Ground Which I Have Grounded To The Head. I Also Tried Grounding It Directly To The Battery During My Investigation. It Made No Difference.
The Other Wire From The Nitrous Box Is The Hot Wire Going To The Toggle Switch Under My Dash. This Is The Switch That I Refer To That Causes The Reduced Engine Power Almost Every Time ( Just By Flipping The Switch.
But, Remember That I Disconected The Wire Going To The Tps And Gound Wire And Disconected The Fuel And Nitrous Lines Going To The Motor Also ( Just To Make Sure The Solenoids Were Not Leaking. It Still Has The Problem