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I started having a problem with this a few months back. While driving down the road, all of a sudden I get the 2 yellow warning lights on my dash to light up, active handling and the ABS is not functioning. In the DIC, it says Service ABS, Service Active Handling, Service Traction Control. I only have a Diablosport handheld programmer/tuner that I use to scan the system, and/or clear trouble codes. I believe that it can't retrieve codes in the BCM, only the PCM. That is probably why it won't find any DTC, it only says no fault found. If I shut the key off while driving and immediately turn the key back to the run position, the engine stays running and the codes quit and the lights go out. It seems it is affected most by hitting a sharp bump or after a rain. Yesterday, I washed it and it was there right after I got done with the wash. It hadn't showed up for several days (It hasn't rained much the last few days, either.) If I don't wash it for a few days, and it doesn't rain, the problem goes away. I have tried de-activating the active handling with the console mounted button, to isolate the swich/button. Also tried to use the "Competition" mode to see if it would appear while in those modes. It does, so the switch doesn't seem to be the problem. The car is a 2000 with the F-45 suspension. The biggest reason this is a bad thing: with a 427 engine that can spin the tires at 60mph, I am afraid to let my fiancee drive it, as if she would get caught in the rain or need to pass someone ....you know? HELP!!!!
I'm a complete dope when it comes to this stuff, but I was having the exact same issue with my 2000 coupe. I took it to the dealer today and they diagnosed it as a faulty sensor in the left front hub.
They replaced the hub, but it's too early to tell if the problem is truly fixed since it only happened occasionally.
The code that they found was C1225, if that's helpful.
I'm a complete dope when it comes to this stuff, but I was having the exact same issue with my 2000 coupe. I took it to the dealer today and they diagnosed it as a faulty sensor in the left front hub.
They replaced the hub, but it's too early to tell if the problem is truly fixed since it only happened occasionally.
The code that they found was C1225, if that's helpful.
Thank you. I also have noticed that at times, the ABS activates, and says so in the DIC, but I am just barely pushing on the brake pedal, and the road is totally dry and there are no bumps!!! You can feel the ABS in the pedal trying to do its job, but it shouldn't be activating when the roads are dry and good! HELP!!!
2 yellow warning lights on my dash to light up, active handling and the ABS is not functioning. In the DIC, it says Service ABS, Service Active Handling, Service Traction Control.
I started getting those same warnings intermittently over the past few months. Then they started staying on all the time... so I took it to the dealer. It's been sitting there for a month! Waiting on a back-ordered Break module and Valve or some %#@$ thing like that.
You should take it in to be checked. GM will finally receive the replacement part(s) this week and you might want to get one before they're all gone again.
I started getting those same warnings intermittently over the past few months. Then they started staying on all the time... so I took it to the dealer. It's been sitting there for a month! Waiting on a back-ordered Break module and Valve or some %#@$ thing like that.
You should take it in to be checked. GM will finally receive the replacement part(s) this week and you might want to get one before they're all gone again.
Why did you let is sit at the dealers for so long? I would have kept driving it til they got the part. As long as the base brakes are OK the other systems do not impact safe driving.
Bill
Why did you let is sit at the dealers for so long? I would have kept driving it til they got the part. As long as the base brakes are OK the other systems do not impact safe driving.
Bill
They say it is undriveable. Been driving a Impala loaner!
This is the same **** dealership that told me "Museum Delivery" is when they ship your corvette in a sealed container so you can put it directly into your private garage collection. However they aren't the same dealer that failed to remove the shock-stuffers during dealer prep.
The problem frequently starts out as occasional, goes to frequent, and then full time. That's how it happened to mine. It usually relates to the ABS/TC assembly on the frame in front of the engine. It is made of two parts, the EBTCM (the electronic part) which is bolted to the mechanical half, the BPMV (Brake pressure modulating valve.) Sometimes the electronic grounds for this assembly get corroded or loose. Bad connectors for the ABS speed sensors at each wheel hub can also go bad. See this thread for more info http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1363775
You should check the DIC codes. It can be done on the DIC, without using a handheld device. Of course, then you will need a table of DTC codes. Even if the problem is no longer present, it should show up as a history "H" code. Here's a code table for 2002 http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
In my case, replacing the BPMV under extended warranty solved my problem, but out of warranty, it gets expensive for that or an EBTCM.
The problem frequently starts out as occasional, goes to frequent, and then full time. That's how it happened to mine. It usually relates to the ABS/TC assembly on the frame in front of the engine. It is made of two parts, the EBTCM (the electronic part) which is bolted to the mechanical half, the BPMV (Brake pressure modulating valve.) Sometimes the electronic grounds for this assembly get corroded or loose. Bad connectors for the ABS speed sensors at each wheel hub can also go bad. See this thread for more info http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1363775
You should check the DIC codes. It can be done on the DIC, without using a handheld device. Of course, then you will need a table of DTC codes. Even if the problem is no longer present, it should show up as a history "H" code. Here's a code table for 2002 http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
In my case, replacing the BPMV under extended warranty solved my problem, but out of warranty, it gets expensive for that or an EBTCM.
Hope this helps.
Thanks to all of you. Believe it or not, it seems to be getting better, not worse!!?? But it hasn't rained here in quite awhile, either. But just the other day, after a week or so of no trouble, and no rain either, bingo, it's Baaaccckk!! If I turn the key off for an instant and turn back to the run position, it goes away. I am starting to wonder if the intense underhood heat is causing part of the trouble? I recently talked to Ed@ LPE and told him the Kooks LT's I have, which are uncoated, dammit, along with a 427 cube motor, are generating so much underhood heat that my brake master cylinder runneth over, not with love, but brake fluid!!!! I actually removed the cap and siphoned some fluid out and that problem is gone. I have now removed the hood seal rubber to help vent the excess heat and the problem has not re-surfaced since, even after a rain!! Go figure, but the guy who posted up earlier about the "ABS Brain Box" in front of the motor may be correct. I know heat and electricity are like Liz Taylor and marriage: sooner or later, they don't agree with each other!!
The problem frequently starts out as occasional, goes to frequent, and then full time. That's how it happened to mine. It usually relates to the ABS/TC assembly on the frame in front of the engine. It is made of two parts, the EBTCM (the electronic part) which is bolted to the mechanical half, the BPMV (Brake pressure modulating valve.) Sometimes the electronic grounds for this assembly get corroded or loose. Bad connectors for the ABS speed sensors at each wheel hub can also go bad. See this thread for more info http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1363775
You should check the DIC codes. It can be done on the DIC, without using a handheld device. Of course, then you will need a table of DTC codes. Even if the problem is no longer present, it should show up as a history "H" code. Here's a code table for 2002 http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
In my case, replacing the BPMV under extended warranty solved my problem, but out of warranty, it gets expensive for that or an EBTCM.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info.I took it in yesterday for a scan and the Vette shop, Drago's in Flint, Mi.. The owner there told me it has thrown a 1225 code in the BCM, which indicates a left front ABS sensor failure. He told me that this happens occasionally and it is often the ABS sensor connection at the wire where it connects to the harness, which is why I, and now he, see it triggering after a sharp, not necessarily big, bump. They become corroded over time and he thinks I should start by cleaning/inspecting the connector for corrosion and if all is well, start tracing the wire along it's path and look for a spot that the insulation may be chafed/worn through, thereby letting water in and/or shorting out to ground and triggering the code. But it could be something more serious, so I am off to try and do some inspecting. Thanks again. By the way, I have found Gary and Mary Jo Drago to be very knowledgeable and outgoing people to deal with. Honest and sincere. A good Vette shop!
Last edited by grinder11; Jun 27, 2006 at 05:16 PM.
Thanks for the info.I took it in yesterday for a scan and the Vette shop, Drago's in Flint, Mi.. The owner there told me it has thrown a 1225 code in the BCM, which indicates a left front ABS sensor failure. He told me that this happens occasionally and it is often the ABS sensor connection at the wire where it connects to the harness, which is why I, and now he, see it triggering after a sharp, not necessarily big, bump. They become corroded over time and he thinks I should start by cleaning/inspecting the connector for corrosion and if all is well, start tracing the wire along it's path and look for a spot that the insulation may be chafed/worn through, thereby letting water in and/or shorting out to ground and triggering the code. But it could be something more serious, so I am off to try and do some inspecting. Thanks again. By the way, I have found Gary and Mary Jo Drago to be very knowledgeable and outgoing people to deal with. Honest and sincere. A good Vette shop!
I think I am going to get a new left front wheel bearing/ sensor assembly, as it is starting to get worse. Thanks again to all.
I had a similar problem. Cleaned and used dielectric grease on the wheel sensor cable connectors and the problem is solved. Cheaper and way less trouble than going to a dealer. Bill Curlee has an excellent writeup on the issue. Search the archives.
Thanks Bill!!!!!!!!!