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i believe the biggest part of the dte differentials are the casings themselves .. they're a stronger case and thus in conjunction with the beefier internals can hold up to more power.
i know you can swap the halfs into a stock unit (i believe lingenfelter used to do this) ..
also depending on which one you purchased, will determine what internals are in it and how they're prepped (i.e. micropolishing, etc etc) ..
are you trying to take the halfs from the rearend you blew up and put them in your stock unit?
I don't think they strengthen the case, but the clutch pack is different and the internals are modified for better oil distribution. They have a write-up on their web site.
I don't think they strengthen the case, but the clutch pack is different and the internals are modified for better oil distribution. They have a write-up on their web site.
.. i was almost certain they used the 3-rib getrag design .. well .. i just went to the source .. and it's only their top of the line "DTE Stage 5 Super Duty / Racing" diff that used the getrag 3-rib design .. my mistake.
i guess otehr than that .. they just rework the insides.
Isn't the 3 rib what came out in the later years, maybe even 2004 only? Not sure on that. Does anyone know what the Getrag 3.73 rear comes with for a case?
There are quite a number of internal and external modifications we implement into our HP differentials and it's the sum of those improvements that make up the entire strong differential as a whole. It takes us approx. 12 hours to completely prepare one of our differentials for HP use from start to finish and there is much more to upgrading a HP differential than just "slapping a few hard parts and gear set into the case".
The stock differential of any model or year is a complete joke for real HP use and one would laugh out loud if they really saw what was in there from the factory.. Remember folks, stock differentials are produced in a production-line fashion where speed is the priority target and everything else is second, third, etc.....
Our products are built with just the opposite philosophy~ Quality first, everything else second, third, etc.....
Question for DTE, is there a better year to purchase for upgrade or any one that is better than the other? This is my next planned mod and I am now in pursuit of a good core.
In a nutshell~
If you're choosing to use a stock differential only, the later the better. However, if you're purchasing a HD unit from us, the model year doesn't matter, because we bring every unit up to the same strength level using our latest build techniques, modifications, upgrades, etc., regardless of build date.
We have some very trick billet parts we're nearly ready to release (no timeline yet) that will fortify even the poorest differential casting for HP use. We've been working on them since early February..
We have some very trick billet parts we're nearly ready to release (no timeline yet) that will fortify even the poorest differential casting for HP use. We've been working on them since early February..
DTE Cryo treats their gearsets & gives a warranty. I've had the tour at Phils shop and was impressed ,very clean,
well organized,great customer service & alot of experience.
There are quite a number of internal and external modifications we implement into our HP differentials and it's the sum of those improvements that make up the entire strong differential as a whole. It takes us approx. 12 hours to completely prepare one of our differentials for HP use from start to finish and there is much more to upgrading a HP differential than just "slapping a few hard parts and gear set into the case".
The stock differential of any model or year is a complete joke for real HP use and one would laugh out loud if they really saw what was in there from the factory.. Remember folks, stock differentials are produced in a production-line fashion where speed is the priority target and everything else is second, third, etc.....
Our products are built with just the opposite philosophy~ Quality first, everything else second, third, etc.....
Best Regards,
DTE
Lots of mumbo jumbo and no real answers.... What’s the big difference? The experience iv had with a DTE unit is anything but quality. My stock rear end held up fine under 500 rwhp, then I swapped in a stage 2 with 3.73's and kaboom only after 48 hours. Yes it was used but I trusted the forum and took a price cut for a used rear. Boy was it my mistake.
As of now I have a bad taste in my mouth from you guys and I don’t see my money returning anytime soon until I can get some hard facts on what is so different besides “quite a number of internal and external modifications”.
Lots of mumbo jumbo and no real answers.... What’s the big difference? The experience iv had with a DTE unit is anything but quality. My stock rear end held up fine under 500 rwhp, then I swapped in a stage 2 with 3.73's and kaboom only after 48 hours. Yes it was used but I trusted the forum and took a price cut for a used rear. Boy was it my mistake.
As of now I have a bad taste in my mouth from you guys and I don’t see my money returning anytime soon until I can get some hard facts on what is so different besides “quite a number of internal and external modifications”.
Last year I went with the DTE Stage II package, added the billet pinion shaft support assembly, and also upgraded from 3.15 to 3.42 gears (cryo treated Z06 gears). Everything was cleaned, deburred, blueprinted, etc., with pictures sent to me at various stages of rebuild. I have no doubt that it takes at least 12 hours for DTE to do this work given the precision and attention to detail applied to the task.
I've never had a single problem (no leaks, unusual sounds, vibrations, or anything else), the posi grip is tons better than stock, and the diff easily handles my 423 rwhp (another DTE success story).
I for one see the value of doing this. You spend a lot of money getting the HP - this is the way to get that power to the ground without worrying about what's going to break. This year I added the DTE strut brace for some additional piece of mind.
There are always going to be naysayers, but look around and see how many people consistently praise DTE. You don't get that by doing a bad job. I personally have nothing but respect for Phil and his team.
Anyway, quality costs money, but all-in-all I feel that this is a very good value. Would do it all over again.
Lots of mumbo jumbo and no real answers.... What’s the big difference? The experience iv had with a DTE unit is anything but quality. My stock rear end held up fine under 500 rwhp, then I swapped in a stage 2 with 3.73's and kaboom only after 48 hours. Yes it was used but I trusted the forum and took a price cut for a used rear. Boy was it my mistake.
As of now I have a bad taste in my mouth from you guys and I don’t see my money returning anytime soon until I can get some hard facts on what is so different besides “quite a number of internal and external modifications”.
I bought my 2000 vert new. I slowly added power till I now have 432 rwhp. I went with the DTE Stage 4 upgrade with 3.73 gear, micro polish and the strut brace.
I saw the upgraded parts DTE installed and there is huge differance. In addition I had the 2 ribbed case and DTE used a 3 rib deal on the upgrade. The vert season is short in Michigan and I do not want to be down in the summer. The DTE rear end has given me a near bullet proof rear end. They also installed a LS7 clutch and all is very well. The folks there are super but it does cost some cash but great things usually do. I am totally satisfied. Highly recommended!!!!!!!!
Curious how you like the 3.73's since I can't seem to decide between 3.73 and 3.90.
With your mods it seems like 3.90 might be too much. With my 3.42s I can get the wheels to break loose up to just under triple digit speeds by accelerating to just below the downshift point. It's kind of an eerie feeling (like being on ice) - especially when you weren't planning on it happening. I would have to think that it would be that much worse (or better, depending on your perspective) with lower gears.
Lots of mumbo jumbo and no real answers.... What’s the big difference? The experience iv had with a DTE unit is anything but quality. My stock rear end held up fine under 500 rwhp, then I swapped in a stage 2 with 3.73's and kaboom only after 48 hours. Yes it was used but I trusted the forum and took a price cut for a used rear. Boy was it my mistake.
As of now I have a bad taste in my mouth from you guys and I don’t see my money returning anytime soon until I can get some hard facts on what is so different besides “quite a number of internal and external modifications”.
wow, i wasn't expecting a straight up bashing. i have never heard anything bad about dte in general and was/will be ordering a set of 4.10's shortly.