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DTE vs. stock

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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 06:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ChipN
With your mods it seems like 3.90 might be too much. With my 3.42s I can get the wheels to break loose up to just under triple digit speeds by accelerating to just below the downshift point. It's kind of an eerie feeling (like being on ice) - especially when you weren't planning on it happening. I would have to think that it would be that much worse (or better, depending on your perspective) with lower gears.

Just my $0.02
With the stick, I don't get the engine spin up from the converter so the car isn't quite as loose. Not that I want it to be, but I am looking for some more snap without going into the motor again.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 11:35 AM
  #22  
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I can see this is going to be a difficult decision. Almost as much fun as picking a cam, and I do mean fun!
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 12:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by triblk6spd
wow, i wasn't expecting a straight up bashing. i have never heard anything bad about dte in general and was/will be ordering a set of 4.10's shortly.
I don't think he was "bashing" DTE. Some misguided frustration, yes.

You can't take anything used and judge it for what it would be like as though YOU had used it the whole time. Look at some of the videos on this board of guys doing extended burnouts/turnins just for the sake of "using up" their old tires.

The seller may not have known how hard they shocked the ring/pinion. Atleast, you'd hope it was a mistake.
There are some things I'd never buy "used" and a rear diff. is one of them.
Scott
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #24  
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Guys - I have been drag racing my 2000 C5 Coupe since 2000. I bugged DTE for their "stuff" as it came out, first the brace (A4 style), then the shafts, then the pinoin supports, polished gears, posi unit, etc. I have put up to 160 runs per year on my DTE parts (currently with 760 RWHP). First I ran a 3.90, then a 4.10 now I'm back to a 3.73 all WITHOUT A HITCH. DTE DOES WHAT IT SAYS, SAYS WHAT IT DOES, DELIVERS IN A TIMELY MANNER, BACKS UP THEIR PRODUCTS, AND CHARGES A FAIR COMPETETIVE PRICE - WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR??????????

JR

PS - I'm running an ECS Drive shaft with U-Joints & solid connectors, Billet/Poly Engine & Tranny Mounts, and my ET Streets are screwed to the rims, THERE IS NO PLAY IN MY DRIVETRAIN - IF THEIR "STUFF" IS GONNA FAIL IT WOULD BE IN MY CAR!!

Last edited by JR-CRUZN-C5; Jun 26, 2006 at 03:31 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 10:59 PM
  #25  
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Paying extra for quality is fine, but paying extra for a warranty is crazy. I've been on the forums long enough to know that warranties are almost never honored. The customer gets accused of not breaking in the parts right or abusing them or whatever. It is what it is.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #26  
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I thought long and hard about which rear gear to get with my stage 4 upgrade from DTE. I still wanted reasonable mpg but also wanted more pop off the line. I went with the 3.73 and it has worked out great. I almost have too much torque in third when passing. It makes 6th gear usable above 55. Car goes like stink and I can use all 6 gears. Turned out to be a great choice with 431.5 rwhp. Very pleased.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 03:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by EMDExpress
I thought long and hard about which rear gear to get with my stage 4 upgrade from DTE. I still wanted reasonable mpg but also wanted more pop off the line. I went with the 3.73 and it has worked out great. I almost have too much torque in third when passing. It makes 6th gear usable above 55. Car goes like stink and I can use all 6 gears. Turned out to be a great choice with 431.5 rwhp. Very pleased.
I also trying to decide between the 3.73 and 3.90 and leaning toward the 3.73. Did you find the jump from 3.42 to 3.73 worth the change? I am running 400 RWHP
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 04:07 PM
  #28  
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Me too, is going from a 3.42 to 3.73 worth it?

- Max
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 06:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by EMDExpress
I bought my 2000 vert new. I slowly added power till I now have 432 rwhp. I went with the DTE Stage 4 upgrade with 3.73 gear, micro polish and the strut brace.

I saw the upgraded parts DTE installed and there is huge differance. In addition I had the 2 ribbed case and DTE used a 3 rib deal on the upgrade. The vert season is short in Michigan and I do not want to be down in the summer. The DTE rear end has given me a near bullet proof rear end. They also installed a LS7 clutch and all is very well. The folks there are super but it does cost some cash but great things usually do. I am totally satisfied. Highly recommended!!!!!!!!
I was stationed at Wurtsmith AFB for a year. Does it now get warm enough for convertibles? I thought the Michigan summers were like 1 day! James
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by George V
I also trying to decide between the 3.73 and 3.90 and leaning toward the 3.73. Did you find the jump from 3.42 to 3.73 worth the change? I am running 400 RWHP
It was very much worth the change. I drove a 4:10 rear end and it was way too much for me. When on the road I prefer to keep the rpms in the lower range. You can use six gear at 55 mph with a 3.73 rear where I could not before. All the gears seem more usefull with the change. The car just feels right. I have 431.5 rwhp and the cars goes like stink but if I went with more gear, I would need stickier tires and maybe a tub job. As we all know, everything is a compromise so you need to find what works best for the way you drive. For me the 3.73 is it for me. As far as DTE rear end goes. It is quiet, strong and gives me piece of mind. While pricey, you get what you pay for in this case. If you are in Michigan, come give my car a testt drive and see for your self...............
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 10:03 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SPD KILZ
Lots of mumbo jumbo and no real answers.... What’s the big difference? The experience iv had with a DTE unit is anything but quality. My stock rear end held up fine under 500 rwhp, then I swapped in a stage 2 with 3.73's and kaboom only after 48 hours. Yes it was used but I trusted the forum and took a price cut for a used rear. Boy was it my mistake.

As of now I have a bad taste in my mouth from you guys and I don’t see my money returning anytime soon until I can get some hard facts on what is so different besides “quite a number of internal and external modifications”.

if you have a problem with DTE,, there must be more involved that what you tell us,,,,

Phil is a top notch guy and stands behind his work,, you buy a used diff and expect it to be perfect,,, maybe you got a abused part,,,I have many miles on my 373 diff and as far as I know, its perfect...
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