Ok... so my Harmonic balancer walked off on friday night while racing.. took everything off again ( powersteering, h20 pump) you know the works.. I"m about ot pull the balancer off and replace it with a powerbond 25% that i got from TSP. there is a key hole on the new underdrive but when i took off my balancer for the cam it was smooth.. WTF... is there something wrong here or is this how it comes? i've heard people say they pined theirs.. what does this mean?

 

Actually, you are in luck. Buy the ATI pin kit and you can pin the crank lickety split and not have to worry about it ever again That's what I did with my ATI damper. I have photo's of how the kit works if you want to see it. You just need to measure the key cut into your new damper to make sure the size is correct.

 

do i need this? yes i'd like to see pics... and where can i buy it...


I was kinda hoping to install tonight..


what does it do?


sorry for all the questions thanks in advance.

 

Here are two photo's, the first is the kit the second is the drill fixture on my car when I did it. What it does it allow you to install a pin in the crank snout that sits in the keyway of your damper and won't let it turn, thus it won't spin off. I also went with the ARP bolt, tightened to 190 lb-ft using ARP assembly lube so future removals will be a snap.






Note, the aluminum foil was just to make sure no chips got into the oil pan, if the timing cover is in place the drill guide will go into it just like the damper and seal out any chips. You can install without pinning the crank, but you lose the benefit.

This is the final installation with the ARP bolt.

 

wait i dont' get it.. hold on let me see if i cna find a pic of my powerbond.

 

Here is the link of the pulley from TSPs site.

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=629&catid=20

I'll see if I can find a better pic for you.

 

 

Just make sure they didn't sell you an F-body pulley, they are not interchangeable with our Y-bodies.

Y-body LS1 cranks don't have a keyway in the crank.

 

it's deff. a Y-body.. after some LS1tech research it's fine.. it has the key for aftermarket cranks....


on a side note... what a freakin pain to get on... I'm just gonna go to the hardware store tomorrow and find a longer bolts to pull it on..

does anyone know the specs on the bolt?

 

The Powerbond pulleys have a keyway. The stock LS1 pulleys don't. If you follow the pulley install instructions exactly you probably won't have the pulley walk off. Pinning the crank is added insurance you won't have it walk off in the future. If you really want to pin the crank with a Powerbond pulley, call Andy at A&A. He has a loaner jig that allows you to pin the crank lengthwise so it will align with the slot in the PB pulley. Been there, done that, unpinned and pinned on my ASP. The reason I pinned it was I took it off to do some more work on the cam and was concerned it was stretched.
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This must have gone in just as you posted above. The best way to install the pulley is with a threaded rod and thick washers. GM actually has a pulley install kit that is nothing more than a hardened rod with some washers and a nut. You thread it in, put the pulley on, and crank it in. Then remove the rod, put the 'old' bolt in and crank it to 240ft/lbs. Then remove the 'old' bolt, put the new one in, crank to 37 ft/lbs, then turn it another 140 degrees.
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I would get some threaded rod that matches the old bolt and use that. Be VERY careful of using a bolt that doesn't go into the cranck far enough. Many have stripped the crank trying to do it that way. I'm at work, but i THINK the bolt is a 24x1.5mm, but I wouldn't count on that being accurate.

 

ya.. I think i was stripping a couple of the threads last night... i gave up... i'm calling dealer right now to see if they have an install kit... otherwise illl take a bolt with me to a hardware store...


i didnt' do teh 37lbs and turn last time along with my Harmonic balancer had already been installed 3x min.

in other news... I thought i'd just buy a puller seeing i had done this enough times (pervious i rented from a parts store) turned out the one i rented to a lil to big and wouldn't work.. I figured since i wasn't going to use the HB again i'd hook it from the outside... and it worked.. took a lil extra effort.. but it removed the outter wheel from the inner wheel... any guesses which one weighs more?

 

The bolt you need is 16m @ 2.0 pitch(std.) and at least 120mm long.

 

Here is the tool I made to re-install mine. Its about $10 for the material, a 300 mm long threaded rod.

 

i'm so making one tonight...

 

If your new balancer has a keyway, and you want to pin your crank, and if your stock balancer still on. Then drill it with a drill jig before taking it off. Then you can use the keyway in the new hub without drilling another slot in it.

 

Gives you full thread engagement in the crank before pulling on the damper.