I am currently hearing a lot about guys who have been using more than a "normal" amount of oil, and they are using a "catch can" to keep the oil mist from entering the intake ports. Is there any validity to these "catch cans"? I have a larger motor (427) and never had this problem when stock. I have Total Seal Gapless rings and all new heads with new guide seals, along with NO oil smoke. But I AM going thru about 1 quart of Mobil 1 every 700-800 miles or so. This is way out of line. The ports are oily and the pipes, along with the rear fascia, are definitely an oily black color. What could cause this? And how could an "oily mist" enter the intake ports from inside the manifold "valley"? Is this because of the LS1's rep. for less than optimum bank to bank/cylinder to cylinder breathing in the crankcase area? My motor runs strong and is far quieter with the forged pistons than with the factory cast pistons (Yeah, my LS1, a 2000, really clattered when it got below 50 degrees outside!) I have heard that AMW and TPIS sell these "cans". Anybody care to comment/advise/.02, etc.?? Help!! Mobil 1 is about $4.50-$5.00 a quart here!

 

The cans do work, but they will not stop your car from using oil only from burning it. Do a search here on the forum and you will find lots of pictures for the install and some places to get them relatively cheap. I think I paid less than $20 shipped. They hook into the breather system to keep the oil out of the intake.

 

I installed a CH can system just for the heck of it.

The bottom line is that it DOES collect some oil that would end up in the intake. I feel that any oil it stops is a win for the car.

Easy install and cheap too.

 

Where did you get it? Thanks.

 

I have an AMW can and can say for a fact that it catches a ton of oil, particularly on track days.

 

Took me a second to realize what ALLEGRO is talking about. CH is Campbell Hausfield....you can get those at home depot or any harware or contractor supply place. Its an oil/water seperator for pneumatic air systems, but i'm sure it works fine under a vacuum like your oil vapor system. I'll be picking one of those up and installing it soon too! Get that damn oil out of the intake and plugs!!!!

 

Mine works great, but my car still burns a little oil over time, because of the heads and cam setup I have. I highly recommend a oil catch can, they are pretty easy to install and the amount of oil ou catch is pretty amazing.

 

If your gonna use the CH type ( I have for 3 years ) either take out the stone filter element or pop a small hole in it .

 

Don't the plastic CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD oil separators become brittle with time/heat? I had one on my 60 gallon shop compressor for a while. It cracked and was replaced.

 

That a good question I wonder how long they will last? ,so far so good on all of mine 3 years on 1 , 2 years on another. Maybe all the oil keeps them from being brittle

 

DH

 

Your compressor has at least 125lbs. of pressure, or it should. I don't think the LS motors should have that amount, agreed!!

 

I don't understand what you are asking , my previous statement was to show that the ch type can was still holding up well after 3 years and the plastic was not brittle , and it catches allot of oil .

Question to you have you tryed any other oils ?,how long has this motor been like this with the oil in the rear pipes? I know you say you have Total Seal Gapless rings and all new heads but something really doesnt seem right in there

 

Sorry!! I was responding to hot wheels and his air compressor!!! Thanks for your help! I am running a QTP high volume/pressure pump, which came with my QTP 2-piece timing cover, and I was reluctant to return a half order (the pump), but should have. I have read in the different books that a high volume pump with high pressure sometimes will make the motor use more oil. Anyone else running this pump and had problems?? I want to make it clear that the pump works great-no problems. It's just that it might be working TOO good! Motor has been as sescribed since new, and I have not tried any other oil, but did try a thicker viscosity, with mixed results.

 

Just for gigles what your oil psi at idle hot

 

It depends on the oil viscosity, to a degree. With 5W-30 Mobil 1, it is around 35psi. With the 0W-40 Mobil 1 they have in this area, it is closer to 40lbs psi. With the 15W-50 Mobil 1, it is always above 40lbs psi, say 42-44 or so. That's why I think this oil pump is for a max effort 8 or 9 second range car. It runs about 55-60 lbs psi when hot and cruising at 70mph or so, and I really think this is a bit more than necessary. IMHO, I think that 30-35 lbs psi at hot idle is more than sufficient, and 45 lbs psi from 60 mph on up is also fine. I am curious as to why this seems to be an "achilles heel" of the Gen III motors, and if this is the case, why it is not more frequently discussed and dealt with in the most efficient and economical way? A catch can may work, but it is a band aid approach to the real problem! With the amount of money a lot of us have invested in our engines, and with the Gen III platform out for 10 years now, this is an unacceptable trait/ inherent flaw, in an otherwise superior design. I have built many engines over the last 30+ years, and I have NEVER spent so much hard earned money on any of them, nor had any of them be so disappointing in the oil consumption department! BUT, I have never had an engine that made so much power with so little effort, either, and it is as reliable as the proverbial rock.

 

You saw were I was going with that huh


That 15-50 is a bit much I think , these things are a alot tighter inside than the old days . I would still try a different oil, M1 is just too thin imo , hell when you shake the bottle it feel like juice not oil .Try castrol , RPuple ,or amisol in a 5-30 0-30 and put on el cheapo CH catch before you go and tear into that oil pump .Oh dont forget to pop the intake off and clean that thing cause you know its nasty in there