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Mods: LS6 P&P heads milled to provide 11:1 compression; LS6 Intake; LG Street Series headers; dyno tune.
Do you think I will hit rwhp around 380?
Has anyone done something like this?
I know that I can get allot more with a cam. I don't wish to change the cam. I want to maintain stock like manners and durability. So, any comments specific to my plan and questions would be appreciated.
My setup in sig gets you there and it is very reliable. Starts right up, drives like a grocery getter until you nail it. I just went on a 1500 mile trip with no worries.
With those mods you will pickup about 30 hp. Ad a cam in the 224-230 duration range with 114LS,a good tune,and it will drive like stock and meet your HP goal.
I have a '97 A4..runs great...My setup is a "sleeper" until you step on it...having it dyno soon to see what numbers I'm putting down..check my MODS in my sig.
Good luck
Rsty
You'll proably be a little closer to 360 without a new cam. There are a lot of cams that will help you maintain the stock driveability and reliablity. Just keep the LS at 114 for your auto, and keep the lift down to somthing reasonable to avoid having to change out the springs every 20,000 miles.
If you keep your stock TC, you're leaving some performance on the table, but it will still have that "stock" feel to it
I have LS6 PP heads, and stock cam with LTs,with 3" exhaust and different CAI and I am just over 400 to the ground.
Your tuner should get at least to 380 if not 400 to the ground.
You have a 6 speed and he has an auto, so the rwhp will be a little higher with your car.
You also obviously have a very strong car. There are some mild H/C A4 cars that are putting down less than 400 hp. 400 with just heads and LTs is more the exception than the rule IMO
Mods: LS6 P&P heads milled to provide 11:1 compression; LS6 Intake; LG Street Series headers; dyno tune.
Do you think I will hit rwhp around 380?
Not even close. Unless you're getting a killer deal on the LS6 heads I'd stick with proven AFR 205's and a baby cam. That _will_ keep you the hp you're after.
if you're worried about dyno #'s more than track #'s the first thing you should do is, worry less about dyno #'s, and worry more about track #'s. And the second thing you should do is get a torque converter, I wouldn't do H/C or power adders before getting my bases covered, and the tc is the most important base of all, IMO. Even more so than intake/exhaust.
And other people have said it but, there are a lot of cams out there that will give you power, and drive like stock until you get on it. And you can make it sound perfectly stock too. They're called stealth cams, check out TR's Cheatr cam. No sense in doing heads without a cam, not for the reason you posted anyway.
I have LS6 PP heads, and stock cam with LTs,with 3" exhaust and different CAI and I am just over 400 to the ground.
Your tuner should get at least to 380 if not 400 to the ground.
I have a 99 FRC, therefore, it is manual tranny. Your setup is very close to what I am considering. Your output is higher than I would have expected. If I can get close to 400 at the wheels with similar mods and a good tune I would be very happy.
Do you have a dyno sheet you could post? I would really like to see where the hp and torque are at in the RPMs.
I have LS6 PP heads, and stock cam with LTs,with 3" exhaust and different CAI and I am just over 400 to the ground.
Your tuner should get at least to 380 if not 400 to the ground.
I have a 99 FRC, therefore, it is manual tranny. Your setup is very close to what I am considering. Your output is higher than I would have expected. If I can get close to 400 at the wheels with similar mods and a good tune I would be very happy.
Do you have a dyno sheet you could post? I would really like to see where the hp and torque are at in the RPMs.