Engine Stalling upon clutch release - Help!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Far Hills NJ
Engine Stalling upon clutch release - Help!
'01 MN6 Vert - Title says it all. Engine stalls just as car begins to move when in 1st or reverse. Happened 3 times so far. Twice when engine was cold, another time after a short trip (5 miles). After 3 to 5 attempts she finnally gets going without stalling, then no additional indication of problems. Feels like fuel or spark shuts off. No coughing, just clean shut off.
I pulled codes but the only codes are related to left and right door control module so I assume they have nothing to do with the stalling issue.
FYI- AOLDCM Codes are: B2282H, B2284H, B2262H, B2264H, U1064H
AI RDCM Codes are: B2283H, B2285H, U1064H
Any help appreciated. thank you
I pulled codes but the only codes are related to left and right door control module so I assume they have nothing to do with the stalling issue.
FYI- AOLDCM Codes are: B2282H, B2284H, B2262H, B2264H, U1064H
AI RDCM Codes are: B2283H, B2285H, U1064H
Any help appreciated. thank you
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 25
From: Tacoma WA
Originally Posted by paul6585
Yes, I am giving it enough gas. It is not operator error. (I was afraid someone would say that.) Thanks anyway.
Your DTC isn't showing any codes in the PCM, and it's still turning off eh? Hmm... i don't know what to tell ya.
Does it Idle ok?
Dan
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
have you seen a message "PULL KEY--WAIT 10 SEC" or is your security light flashing?? You will normally see this problem with either of those messages. The security system tells the PCM to cut fuel if the cylinder lock doesnt see the correct resistor pellet in the key! Try your spare ignition key and see if it makes a difference!!
BC
BC
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Far Hills NJ
I had the Column Lock Bypass installed 2 yrs ago when i first pruchased the car used and never had a problem. There is no "PULL KEY--WAIT 10 SEC" message either. The car starts with no problem but stalls just before clutch is fully released. Thanks for the feedback.
Any other ideas?
Any other ideas?
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by ajg1915
Does the car stall in neutral with the clutch out ?
If so, I would look at the clutch safety switch.
If so, I would look at the clutch safety switch.
Nope,,,not the problem! The clutch safety switch ONLY prevents the engine from starting if the clutch isn't depressed! It has nothing to do with causing or allowing the car to stall, shut off or turn off!
BC
Pro
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 505
Likes: 5
From: Oakland NJ
I know you said you had the bypass installed, but this is the exact same problem I had a few months ago with my 98. I brought it to the dealer and had the recall done and no problems since.
Fyi - they used to reprogram the computer to take care of the problem, but now they are replacing parts entirely. This just started a few months ago. I had the reprogram done and still had the problem. Could be the same issue if you have the bypass. Not sure, but it's worth having the dealer check since this fix is at no charge to you if needed.
Fyi - they used to reprogram the computer to take care of the problem, but now they are replacing parts entirely. This just started a few months ago. I had the reprogram done and still had the problem. Could be the same issue if you have the bypass. Not sure, but it's worth having the dealer check since this fix is at no charge to you if needed.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
I have a 2000 vette and the recall was done on mine twice with both of them replacing the wiring harness back in '05. I have had my vette stall on me once time when releasing the clutch in first, but it did not kill the car, it just acted like it couldn't get fuel. I just let kept hitting the gas and it was fine. But it has not done it since. I don't know what else to do about this really. As I said before, its only done it once to me and I drove it yesterday and it did not do it. So I think has had the wiring harness replaced so there isn't much more you can do. Just letting you know I'm having somewhat of a problem with that.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 645
Likes: 12
From: Hermosa Beach CA
Sounds like a failing fuel pump. Idle will be fine but upon a sudden increase in throttle, the pressure drops off. A failed pump is obviously an easy diagnosis, however, a failing pump is difficult. You will usually register the appropriate pressure required to prime for initial start-up thus rendering a pressure reading - useless. It's worth a shot though. Do a search for proper fuel pressure reading prior to cranking. If you haven't already, replace the fuel filter. A clogged filter could very well be the culprit. Enough flow for idle but reduced upon acceleration.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 2
From: Hampton NH
Blast from the past, but I am having the exact same problem with my car. I went to get it out of storage in my father's barn and the thing cuts out when the clutch is about to fully disengage.
Did the original poster ever figure this out? I'll be looking into the fuel filter and steering column lock and other fuel cut off issues
Did the original poster ever figure this out? I'll be looking into the fuel filter and steering column lock and other fuel cut off issues
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 2
From: Hampton NH
Nothing like bringing back to life a 5 year old thread. Forum rules are nothing older than 45 days. Time to post your own new thread.
Your battery is low. Charge or replace it. Your experiencing the fuel shutoff related to the column lock symptoms. Happens when the battery voltage measured across the posts with the neg battery cable disconnected is 12.5 volts or less.
Your battery is low. Charge or replace it. Your experiencing the fuel shutoff related to the column lock symptoms. Happens when the battery voltage measured across the posts with the neg battery cable disconnected is 12.5 volts or less.
Good thing I did ask I got a possible answer! Now we have a thread with a start and possibly and end! 
The battery is charging as we speak so fingers crossed that when i head out there i don't waste a trip.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 2
From: Hampton NH
Before this problem did wheel lock with no key in the ignition?
If your car has the GM K hareness installed, you will likely need to disconnect BOTH ends of it even after the battery is fully charged. K Harness looks like this :
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ky-please.html
Then scroll down to the first pic.
It's located behind the drivers side knee bolster physically in series between the column lock motor and the connector that goes to the BCM. K Harness is recognised by a female connector that has only two wires going into it, one white and 1 purple. If you have it disconnect the male connector from the lock motor, (wires appear to go up into the column) and disconnect the male connector of the K harness (plugged into a female connector attached to the bottom of the dash). Then plug the lock motor male connector into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. This returns the wiring to factory. K Harness is MOST likely fried from the low battery and isn't needed anyway.
If you have not dropped the drivers side knee bolster before read the first part of this link:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
If your car has the GM K hareness installed, you will likely need to disconnect BOTH ends of it even after the battery is fully charged. K Harness looks like this :
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ky-please.html
Then scroll down to the first pic.
It's located behind the drivers side knee bolster physically in series between the column lock motor and the connector that goes to the BCM. K Harness is recognised by a female connector that has only two wires going into it, one white and 1 purple. If you have it disconnect the male connector from the lock motor, (wires appear to go up into the column) and disconnect the male connector of the K harness (plugged into a female connector attached to the bottom of the dash). Then plug the lock motor male connector into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. This returns the wiring to factory. K Harness is MOST likely fried from the low battery and isn't needed anyway.
If you have not dropped the drivers side knee bolster before read the first part of this link:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
Just to re-state your comment, you think the fuel is cutting out due to the 2mph PCM re-program mentioned in the Steering Column Lock FAQ thread, here..."Q I have a MN6/M12 car, what will the recall do?
A IF you have a MN6/M12 car, the recall does NOT disable your column lock motor. It simply re-programs your PCM to guarantee your fuel is shut off at speeds above 2 mph so you cannot drive your car with the steering column locked. The column lock failure can still occur at any time and you will most likely be stranded somewhere needing to be towed to the nearest dealer for repair when it occurs. "
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 2
From: Hampton NH
8VETTE7,
It is a 2001 6 speed coupe. The recall was done in 2010.
Before this problem started the car had just been backed out of the garage and driven 20 feet with no problems, I shut the car off, then when I started it again the problem started. I did not pull the key from the dash in between. So, the wheel was not locked with no key in the ignition.
It is a 2001 6 speed coupe. The recall was done in 2010.
Before this problem started the car had just been backed out of the garage and driven 20 feet with no problems, I shut the car off, then when I started it again the problem started. I did not pull the key from the dash in between. So, the wheel was not locked with no key in the ignition.