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So what did the dealership offer you by way of a solution? Your column won't lock, but can't the fuel still be shut off? (BTW, I was under the impression that as our car came from the factory, there was no fuel shutoff as part of the CL mechanism, but now I have heard that there always was a fuel shutoff, but just that it didn't always "work" under all circumstances if the column locked, so GM's first recall dealt with making sure the fuel did shut off under all conditions?) I realize that the CLB should eliminate that concern, but did the dealer (and GM) just leave you swinging in the breeze?
My particular circumstance, the dealer just left me hanging after removing the K harness. The lock plate was removed so no chance the column will lock. I still am uncertain if the CLB will help in my situation as the only part that might fail now is the actuator sending the wrong signal. The fuel shut off has always been part of the anti-theft system, GM just incorporated a more intricate system with the ECL system. As far as I know there still is no fix and if it shuts off again then I have no question that it's all to do with a faulty actuator. GM still will not replace that part.
My particular circumstance, the dealer just left me hanging after removing the K harness. The lock plate was removed so no chance the column will lock. I still am uncertain if the CLB will help in my situation as the only part that might fail now is the actuator sending the wrong signal. The fuel shut off has always been part of the anti-theft system, GM just incorporated a more intricate system with the ECL system. As far as I know there still is no fix and if it shuts off again then I have no question that it's all to do with a faulty actuator. GM still will not replace that part.
Hi Fred,
Just so it's clear in my mind, when you say the actuator, to what precisely are you referring? If it is what I think it is, wouldn't the CLB be effectively bypassing the actuator and then be sending the "correct" signal to the system?
As to the poor quality of these type parts (to wit, this K harness), then the domestic automakers scratch their heads as to why people buy imports (please readers no arguments about real versus perceived quality - overall the fact is people perceive Toyotas as being better quality). If any manufacturers are lurking out there, have you ever heard the axiom penny wise and dollar foolish? Maybe a few well spent dollars would eliminate your hand-wringing and chronic need for rebates to juice sales.... Sorry for the rant and getting off-topic here.
Hi Fred,
Just so it's clear in my mind, when you say the actuator, to what precisely are you referring? If it is what I think it is, wouldn't the CLB be effectively bypassing the actuator and then be sending the "correct" signal to the system?
As to the poor quality of these type parts (to wit, this K harness), then the domestic automakers scratch their heads as to why people buy imports (please readers no arguments about real versus perceived quality - overall the fact is people perceive Toyotas as being better quality). If any manufacturers are lurking out there, have you ever heard the axiom penny wise and dollar foolish? Maybe a few well spent dollars would eliminate your hand-wringing and chronic need for rebates to juice sales.... Sorry for the rant and getting off-topic here.
I honestly don't know what condition the dealer left my car in after they removed the frickn' K harness. I'm waiting on a call from the area rep as I type, hoping he can explain things to me. If in fact they restored my car to the way it was before the idiots touched it then I'll install the CLB and be done with it. Yes, the CLB should bypass any false signal put out by the actuator...........I think......I hope.
The biggest reason in my opinion to get the CLB is that GM's harness-k still requires the column lock Motor/actuator to remain functional, even though they remove the lock plate rendering your steering column unlockable. I had the recall done on a 2000 A4. about 6 months later it had to be towed (wouldn't drive over 2mph) back to the dealer who charged me $525 to replace the column lock motor. I bitched and griped to them and to GM, but the motor is not a part that is added by the recall and therefore not covered. I tried to get them to simply disconnect the column lock motor side of their harness (which would make it just like the CLB), but they refused. Note that the CLB does not even have a connector for the motor, and the motor will not need to function with the CLB. I know the dealer that I traded this vehicle in to (on a newer C5), and the same problem happened to them while they had it. But this time the Chevy dealer covered the clm, since it was still under some kind of part warrantee. Moral of this story, get the CLB.
Well after 4 years of ownership I finally got the "pull key wait 10 seconds" message last week. Well I did just that, and it worked fine. I ordered the CLB and it will go in next week. I can not afford to get stranded somewhere and I don't want GM messing with my car to do the recall b/c they just fired the only tech at my local dealership that I trust to fix it right. Otherwise I would just have the recall performed and remove the locking plate.
No, it is common knowledge that the clbs do not work for all cars. It even states on the websites when you go to purchase them there's no refund if it doesn't work on your car etc.
What the website is referring to are the few cars that have BCM related hard failures which obviously the CLB won't fix.
I honestly don't know what condition the dealer left my car in after they removed the frickn' K harness. I'm waiting on a call from the area rep as I type, hoping he can explain things to me. If in fact they restored my car to the way it was before the idiots touched it then I'll install the CLB and be done with it. Yes, the CLB should bypass any false signal put out by the actuator...........I think......I hope.
I have a 2000 A4 that had the GM column lock recall (removed lock plate and installed K Harness) performed last November. In May of this year, I got remove key, wait 10 seconds message several times, then finally got fuel shut off problem after engine is started and placed into gear. I really didn't want to have car towed, so after much research and very good help from a fellow forum member, John Neese, I removed the knee bolster, and removed the "K Harness", and hooked the connection back up as it was BEFORE the recall was done, and the car started and ran fine, with no codes or problems, and NO TOWING. I then ordered and installed a CLS / CLB from Thunder Racing, and haven't had a problem or issue since.
Guys I just had the recal done today on my 98 manual.
There is a problem...when I put the key in I get the same thing that happened when I installed the clb. Pull Key Wait 10 seconds. My car was perfectly fine before the clb or the recal but I was just trying to prevent a problem.
Can anyone help me with this? If I ignore the pull key message and reset it, when I go to drive the car away it shuts off and I have to pull the key out and restart it and then it will drive.
I'd appreciate some help. There's no way I can deal with doing this every time I want to drive my car
Guys I just had the recal done today on my 98 manual.
There is a problem...when I put the key in I get the same thing that happened when I installed the clb. Pull Key Wait 10 seconds. My car was perfectly fine before the clb or the recal but I was just trying to prevent a problem.
Can anyone help me with this? If I ignore the pull key message and reset it, when I go to drive the car away it shuts off and I have to pull the key out and restart it and then it will drive.
I'd appreciate some help. There's no way I can deal with doing this every time I want to drive my car
Have you tried to reset the system by removing fuse #25 in the passenger foot well?
No, I will try that today and get back Thank you.
I remember when I tried that after installing the clb it still didn't accept it. Hopefully that's a different story.
During the recal the mechanic (semi-friend) showed me what he was doing and that there is no way this can now lock up because he removed the locking plate and put on a new piece. He said there is no where for the pin to go now. I do have the harness and the relay installed. What is the problem ya'll are having?
I can even get him to post on here and chat with you guys since he's done like 100 of these and he knows the jargon and I don't.
Some of the relay harnesses they are now installing are defective, right out the box, which results in column lock messages and fuel shut off within a few days and have had to be replaced with another new relay harness. How widespread this quality control issue is, I can’t say but I would guess that it’s rather small. Electrical parts usually give a long service life or fail right away.
Take it back and let them put in another one, also for free.
Some of the relay harnesses they are now installing are defective, right out the box, which results in column lock messages and fuel shut off within a few days and have had to be replaced with another new relay harness. How widespread this quality control issue is, I can’t say but I would guess that it’s rather small. Electrical parts usually give a long service life or fail right away.
Take it back and let them put in another one, also for free.
As I mentioned earlier, my harness was defective and the dealer removed it altoghther. They are experiencing the new harnesses having failures.
Yes, some of the new harnesses are defective but since GM is picking up the tab, why didn't they just throw in another one?
Frankly, I would have insisted that they do replace it even if it meant going through a dozen of them to get a good one. The dealer gets paid for this by GM so it's no money out of their pocket. GM might even take the hint and give quality control a higher priority.
Yes, some of the new harnesses are defective but since GM is picking up the tab, why didn't they just throw in another one?
Frankly, I would have insisted that they do replace it even if it meant going through a dozen of them to get a good one. The dealer gets paid for this by GM so it's no money out of their pocket. GM might even take the hint and give quality control a higher priority.
I never had a problem with my car till I took it in for the recall. I was happy to just get it back the way it was before I took it there and let the idiots work on it. Now I have scratched trim pieces for the 400 lb. pig mechanic who must have worn steel boots and a wallet chain. I now have a CLB on order.
I'm not here to create an argument in the middle of this thread where we're trying to help each other through this mess.
I tried to install the clb on my car and it did not work. Installed the same piece in a friends 01 zo6 and it accepted it. Thanks
And I'm not trying to either, but I really think you're missing the point. I believe full and well that your CLB worked in your friends car and not yours. That doesn't mean that you don't have a problem with your BCM, assoc wiring, or did not perform the install correctly. No offense intended of course..
The point I'm trying to make is that you seem to insinuate from your posts that the CLB will perform arbitrarily at best from vette to vette. I've installed more of these in C5's than probably 90% of the people on this board and have never had an issue.
Well, I'm not sure how you interpreted it but what I meant to say is what I said that the same one worked in my friends zo6 and did not work in my car. yes it must be that I installed it wrong in my car because I really wanted to give it to him free and install it for him in his car as well lol
Guys I just had the recal done today on my 98 manual.
There is a problem...when I put the key in I get the same thing that happened when I installed the clb. Pull Key Wait 10 seconds. My car was perfectly fine before the clb or the recal but I was just trying to prevent a problem.
If the CLB did not work then it's no surprise that the recall(4006C procedure) didn't work because the problem is somewhere else.
Specifically, the BCM or perhaps its wiring. A good place to start to solve the problem is to check for codes. That should point you in the right direction but you’ll need to have a Tech2 to properly diagnose it.