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oh yea . a question. did you change the line from master to slave? look in line [master cylinder side ] there is a rumor of a restrictor . its supposed to slow clutch action.which in turn goes easy on drive train. there is a [drill mod] to open it up . it lets clutch opperate faster. look and see if possible tanks alot
oh yea . a question. did you change the line from master to slave? look in line [master cylinder side ] there is a rumor of a restrictor . its supposed to slow clutch action.which in turn goes easy on drive train. there is a [drill mod] to open it up . it lets clutch opperate faster. look and see if possible tanks alot
Took the remote bleeder off and got double the travel in the slave cylinder now BUT the clutch still doesnt work. Im call RAM tomorrow morning. Any ideas, I can't be the first person to not have a clutch work right. I even had two guys come by and help who have done 20-30 ls1 clutches and they are both lost on this one. They suggested changing the master first then changing the slave.
Some clutches require a larger bore clutch master cylinder such as the McLeod piece. An adjustable rod on the master cylinder will not create more movement at the slave cylinder, just a different clutch pedal location or "engagment" point. It's a fluid displacement thing. I think the McLeod master cylinder is 1/16 larger in bore diameter so the slave cylinder will move more per clutch pedal travel. Some SPEC clutches will require this , but I am not sure about the type you have installed because I have never used them. I learned the hard way, clutch engagement point was near the floor........good way to tear up your transmission. Hope this helps.
Some clutches require a larger bore clutch master cylinder such as the McLeod piece. An adjustable rod on the master cylinder will not create more movement at the slave cylinder, just a different clutch pedal location or "engagment" point. It's a fluid displacement thing. I think the McLeod master cylinder is 1/16 larger in bore diameter so the slave cylinder will move more per clutch pedal travel. Some SPEC clutches will require this , but I am not sure about the type you have installed because I have never used them. I learned the hard way, clutch engagement point was near the floor........good way to tear up your transmission. Hope this helps.
This clutch doesnt require a differnt master. Im am taking everything back out and calling RAM and going to try to send everything back and get all new parts. Between myself and all the people that have looked at my car we have close to 100 clutch installs, so we are ruling out installer error. There are several little things that just are not just adding up right that hard to explain. I will post up after I talk to RAM tomorrow.
what was bad on hub? was it hitting flywheel bolts? i told you that you would get it right. now that you are an expert on clutch r+r ing people will be seeking youre help. i got ya bookmarked
I got the clutch back from RAM, it had a bad hub which was not allowing the clutch to disengauge. They said it looked like it messed up during the install because they could see marks on it or something. They said for $40 they would put a new one in. I really did not want to have to pay for the repair on a clutch with zero miles on it but they did bump me in front of everyone and got the me the clutch back in one day. After 1.5 months of the car being on jack stands I just wanted to get put together. I put the new clutch in on Sat and it works like a champ.
Glad to see that you got your vette back together. Always sucks when you get a defective part and you do not know it until it is too late and you have to do the job all over again.