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I just installed a new Ram HD clutch, flywheel, Ram adustable master, gm slave with shim from ram, remote bleeder, output shafts, dte tranny brace and a few other things. Everything went together no problems, bleed the clutch, clucth felt really good, a ittle stiffer than stock. I had a friend push in the clucth and I watch the slave move and everything, so we buttoned it up and put the car on the ground. I start it up and let it idle for awhile to get warm, push in the clutch and try to put it in gear, it wont go. I already tried bleeding it again, but like I siad the clutcth feels really good, I would thing if it was air the clucth would feel mushy. Any ideas?
With the car not running I move through all the gears real easy with no problem. With the car running I cant put it in gear, its like the clutch isnt doing anything. I have an adjustable master cylinder, and have it the same length as the stock one, so that shouldnt be a factor I hope.
Well I know it isnt installed backwards. I just read on rams site saying the same thing. I will check tomorrow so see if its hung. I hope not there isnt a easy to fix that.
I hope its something simple. We used an alignment tool and this wasnt the even close to the first clutch install either of us had done. However this was the fist c5 clutch install. What would cause the disc to hang up?
What kinda shifter is it? I had on that was acting kinda the same way and found that there was some adjustment in where the shifter bolts to the top of the trans. Played with that a little and it worked good. If you put it in gear with the engine off and let out on the clutch can you turn the rear wheels by hand?And will the wheels turn when it is in neutral?
I went to bleed it again and I still get some air, but the clutch is harder to push in than it was stock. If I had air still in the system wouldnt the clutch be soft?
If you had air, it might be a little soft but since you have no experience with this particular clutch I would think it would be impossible for you to tell.
Since you can shift into gears without the motor running, I rule out a shifter adjustment or linkage problem.
I would jack up vette on all fours and make sure it is blocked up well, it would be better on a lift if you have access to one.
Take of inspection cover and check air gap. The only other issue is that you bent the clutch plate when installing the torque tube.
Did you replace slave cylinder and master when you replaced clutch.
Also could try to let the pedal out some with the adjustable master and see if that helps.
Well I put the car back in the air and started it and put it in gear with the wheels off the ground. I let it idle in gear and then shifted into 2nd and cut the car off. My pedal then felt a lot softer than it did, even softer than stock. I checked the remote bleeder and I got alot air, so I think its just a lot of air in the system still. Whats the best way to bleed these? Im using a little hand bleeder at the remote bleeder and doing it that way or do you have to bleed these the old way by having someone pump the clutch pedal and hold it the floor while you bleed it?
I am going to have some help tomorrow night so we are going to try the pedal method.
I changed every part of the entire clutch system.
If you have a remote bleeder that is located up by the clutch fluid resevoir tank, I would crack open the bleeder a bit and and stick it in a soda plastic bottle with a little tape so it won't fall off.
The fluid should naturally push some of the air out.
What brand of Clutch Master Cylinder do you have? The tube going from the Clutch Res. to the Master cylinder is attached at the top of the CMS. Some CMS are REALLY close to the brake master cylinder thus causing the tube to be kinked. Making it have interesting effects with clutch engagement. Make sure the clutch fluid hose to the CMS is not kinked. I had to install a 90 degree extension to allow the hose to not have any obstructions while installed.
Well I put the car back in the air and started it and put it in gear with the wheels off the ground. I let it idle in gear and then shifted into 2nd and cut the car off. My pedal then felt a lot softer than it did, even softer than stock. I checked the remote bleeder and I got alot air, so I think its just a lot of air in the system still. Whats the best way to bleed these? Im using a little hand bleeder at the remote bleeder and doing it that way or do you have to bleed these the old way by having someone pump the clutch pedal and hold it the floor while you bleed it?
I am going to have some help tomorrow night so we are going to try the pedal method.
I changed every part of the entire clutch system.
You need to bleed it the old fashioned way with the remote bleeder. All the remote bleeder does is keep you from needing to bleed it from under the car the HARD way. Pump and bleed is the only way. That should do the trick. Good Luck!!
Took the car back apart again and found out its somthing to do with the hydraulics. The clutch is only getting about half the travel it should. I already have a shim installed per RAM. Im taking out all the hydraulics tomorrow and going to bench check everything.
ouch thats not a job ya wanna do twice . sorry partner. you'll get it right this time
Thats just it, everything was done right. I have a bad part in the hydraulic system. The worst part about this well besides taking it apart twice is I have my friends vette to next as soon as mine is done.
i feel youre pain cauz. when you said ya tried it , then buttoned it up been there done that its when ya dot all the i,s cross all the t,s it still goes FUBAR. i,ll rephrase the car will be right