My drivers headlight will not go up or down. I have used the search feature and checked the connections, replaced the gear, unplugged and reconnected the control module, and also checked the wires at the back of the headlights to see if im getting 12+ on both wires. Everything I have checked so far has been fine. I need to know what to check or replce at this point. Please help.

 

How about the ground right there at the frame behind head light?

 

I took that ground off unplugged it, cleaned the connection and screwed it back down with no result.

 

Does the headlight light up when you turn it on and can you raise the unit by manually turning the screw drive? If so, I say the motor is shot.

 

The headlight does light up, and you can move the light up manually.

 

If it is your motor try this turn the switch on tap on head light motor with something like a screwdriver handle. If it is the motor it will sometimes still have enough left to work a few times more. Then you would no for sure it is the motor. Also you could just get a new one without installing it plug it in if it works install it if not you no you still have not found your problem return it.

 

Sounds like the motor is shot. Electrical parts are non-returnable. Look for a cheap replacement. (I have 1, $50 + shipping)

 

I'll let you know on the motor. I want to check a few other things before I start replacing parts. I do think it could be the motor or control module. I just want to see which it is. Thanks

 

Another way to check the motor is as follows:

1. Unplug the connector just behind the headlight to disconnect the headlight from the car's electrical system.
2. Identify the 2 wires that control the motor. It's the Light Green/Dark Green on one headlight and Light Blue/Dark Blue on the other (i can't remember offhand which is which side, but the other 2 wires are the same color on both sides).
3. Get a +12V separate power source if you have one (or rig something up from the car's power).
4. Connect the Dark wire on the headlight side connector to Ground.
5. Now apply +12V to the headlight side connector's Light colored wire for a second or two. If you don't see or hear anything from that motor, then the motor is dead (possible broken wire internal to it). If it moves up then the problem is not in the motor, but more likely back at the control module.

The logic here is if you disconnect the headlight motor from the car and apply a direct +12V across the connector wires it should raise. The Control Module does just that except it keeps +12V on both wires and then switches the ground on the appropriate wire (hence applying +12V or -12V across the 2 wires) to raise or lower the headlight.

 

Thats a very good idea. I'll check on it. thanks.

 

OK. The headlight motor is fine. When I jumped it from the battery it worked perfectly. Does this mean the actuator control must be bad or is there a way to check it. The passenger side headlight works perfectly. wouldnt both lights not pop if the control was bad?

 

According to the schematics, the control module has two separate internal relays to switch the grounds for the left and right motors, hence your description would indicate that either the relays for the driver's side is toast or the problem is in the wiring from the control module to the driver's side motor. But since you're seeing +12V on both wires in steady state, that pretty much rules out the wiring as the problem and points back to the control module. Here's one way to be sure.

I've been thinging about how the control module knows when to switch it's internal relays on and off, i.e. how does it know when the headlight is raised and switch the ground relay back to +12V. I know it's not a timer since if the plastic stop on the headlight bracket is missing the motor will continue to run past the closed position and reopen as described in an old TSB on that issue. So it has to be some kind of sensing circuit that senses the increased current when the motor arm hits the stopper.

So to get back to the problem, this should help further isolate the problem:

1. fashion a small test light with a small flashlight bulb and two wire leads.
2. connect the test light leads to the light/dark motor wires at the output of the control module. It shouldn't matter whether you tap onto the wires with the motor still connected or not, but you may have to leave the motor connected due to the current sensing requirement of the control module. A way around this might be to measure the impedance of the motor and stick a similar value resistor in series with the test lamp so you can leave the motor disconnected.
3. turn the headlight switch ON and you should see the test light illuminate during the time that the control module grounds the dark wire (and also when turning the switch off as it grounds the light wire).

If the test light does not turn on at the output of the control module, then that confirms where the problem is and you would need to replace it.

 

Another good idea. I'll check in the morning so i'll know for sure what to replace. Do you know if the control module is the same for firebirds. They look identical and can be found very cheap.

 

I wouldn't know, but GM Parts should be able to confirm.