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isn't the BCM located under the carpet on the passenger's side? Damn i hate going out there now b/c it's like 20 degrees here in NW Arkansas... but inn two months my new house will have a heated garage... that would be nice right now! I will check the BCM right now!
IF The BCM has been exposed to moisture, the PC board inside can corrode and cause issues like this. You can take the board out and clean it with alcohol and a nylon brush. If your getting a charging system fault,,take that alternator back and get yoyr money back! GM makes three or four different alternators that all look the same. If you dont get the one your car likes (CHARGING SYSTEM FAULT CITY)
new battery, same alternator.... no charge system fault..... just if the car sits for more than a day it is dead... checked the BCM and it looked pristine... no corrosion around the plugs at all.... I'm still thinking that there is something wrong with the BCM not going into sleep mode though... like said before the DIC was displaying the odometer mileage when i got home last night and the car had been sittinng for almost 8 hrs from when my wife tried to start it but it was already to low of a battery charge to turn it over.... any ideas????
new battery, same alternator.... no charge system fault..... just if the car sits for more than a day it is dead... checked the BCM and it looked pristine... no corrosion around the plugs at all.... I'm still thinking that there is something wrong with the BCM not going into sleep mode though... like said before the DIC was displaying the odometer mileage when i got home last night and the car had been sittinng for almost 8 hrs from when my wife tried to start it but it was already to low of a battery charge to turn it over.... any ideas????
get a digital multimeter.remove the NEGATIVE battery cable.hook the meter up between the NEG cable AND the NEG battery terminal.make sure the red lead is in the 10A plug on the meter,set the meter to DCA[direct current-amps],KEEP THE RIGHT FRONT DOOR OPEN,BUT LOCK THE LATCH.the meter will show a High amp draw until everything goes to sleep,you should have no more than 40ma [.040] of current drain after everything is sleeping.if you have more,you now can pull each fuse[starting with the fuseblock in the car,that's why i said leave the r/f door open but lock the latch.],when you pull a fuse and the drain is gone,you've found what is staying alive.
DPD thanks for the pointer.... Bill Curlee said i should do this too but I have yet to find a friend who has a multimeter and I think I will just go and but one... I have replaced the battery, checked and tested the alternator, cleaned and placed dielectric grease on all of the grounds... sommething is still causing a drain....
DPD thanks for the pointer.... Bill Curlee said i should do this too but I have yet to find a friend who has a multimeter and I think I will just go and but one... I have replaced the battery, checked and tested the alternator, cleaned and placed dielectric grease on all of the grounds... sommething is still causing a drain....
if the car is going dead fast,whatever is causing the drain is a heavy load. when you touch the bcm,does it feel warm? also does the car have power seats?more so on the passengers side[seat not normally used],maybe you have a seat switch stuck and the seat is at its limit[foward/backward]and you are just leaning on the seat motors[they will be warm].
well cleared the codes last night and after driving to work this am and letting it sit a bit and then driving another time down the rode and back these are the following codes that the car is throwing:
I know that all of these are history codes but that is about it, can you tell me anything else as to the insite of what might be the problem with the battery drain? Car is a 2000 coupe.... new battery, clean and greased grounds, alternator tested and fine.... but if the car sits for more than a day it is dead....
i cant tell you what is wrong but it sounds like a pretty strong current draw. if so, you have a chance of confirming this if you see a spark when you remove the + lead on the battery when in sleep mode and it sparks when you reattach the lead, it would confirm without a multimeter/amp meter. i know it doesn't help much but it is something to check until you get the meter. i agree with everyone else about the meter and current draw pulling fuses. i just feel your pain and wanted to join in!
good luck!
tomorrow I will be getting a multimeter.... DPD or BC or anyone else that knows... when i start pulling fuses.... do i start with the fuse box under the hood or do I start with the fuse box next to the BCM? I really appreciate everyone's time in this!
open the right front door,lock the latch,disconnect the neg cable,hook up the meter in series. turn the meter on to 10a dca,start by pulling the fuses 1 at a time from inside the car and watch the amp meter.as soon as the draw goes away,you have found your draw.
Here is the current draw pic that I took a while ago:
Your BCM needs to stay powered up. If you remove the fuses for that, your going to see a 20 milliamp drop and your going to think that is a problem. Make sure that everything is shut or off. Once your reading currrent draw, the BCM will need 2-3 mins to go to sleep. Start removing stuff like power seat fuses and relays, lighting fuses, auxilary equipment and circuits. Leave the main modules for last ie: PCM, RFA, IPC, EBTCM, RADIO, and HVAC.
well I put the multimeter in line with the negative battery cable and the neg battery post and left the right ( passenger) door open but locked it as instructed by DPD. the car never really shut down or went to sleep. My meter only has the 20A not the 10A testing so i placed the red probe there, the black probe in the com port and then turned the dial to 200mA DC switch. The interior lights never went off and the DIC along with the driver's door buttons all stayed on. The meter kept reading 38.8 or so.... I then began pulling fuses and finally at fuse 25, 29, and 34 there were drops....25 and 29 are BCM and when I pulled 34 the memory and window buttons finally went out... but all in all the car still never went to sleep.... well unless I shut the door the lights would go out and the pull would drop to like 10.8. So what now? And even worse... I put everything back together and started the car to let it run a bit... started right up but the gauge cluster along with the HUD are not working now..... the HUD just shows to dashes ( -- ) and the gauge cluster isn't lighting up except for some of the warning lights like air bag, seat belt and such... and none of the gauges are active...
I turned the car off and it still displayed the security light in the guage cluster along with the garbled message in the DIC so I just disconnected the battery shut the hood and garage and got a cold beer.... chugged it.... and began sipping another ..... thank God I don't have to see patients tomorrow....lol....
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