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Clutch Recommendation Needed

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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 01:19 PM
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Default Clutch Recommendation Needed

Have added a Procharger to my 01 and now the NEW stock clutch is slipping . What would you guys recommend I replace the stock with? We're looking at 500 hp max, with visits to the drag strip once or twice a year. I do not want expensive overkill, or a clutch that makes the car harder to drive (wife's car). Just something that will hold the existing HP. What would you recommend?
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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I have the LS7 clutch and am in the process of having a Procharger put in. Some say it is fine, others say it is a little week. All I can say, is it is as soft as the stock LS1 clutch it replaced. I think with 500hp it should be OK, at least GM thinks it is for 505HP.

Clayton from Las Vegas
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 03:52 PM
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Once it smokes it's done...and it will slip with a good Procharger tune. I had a new z06 (luks) put in mine when the PC was installed...slipped the first time out ...and I have runflats not Nittos...maybe I got a bad disk...
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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Just get a LUK preassure plate and a nice ceramic disk and you will basically have a cheap textralia. You will have the feel of a stock pedal but the clamping force of a higher priced clutch. If you don't have a lot of miles on your stocker you could even reuse it.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 03:58 PM
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I'll be choosing a clutch setup myself. For the $ many are saying the LS7 is the way to go for now unless you want a textralia clutch,spec,mcleod. From what i understand with some of those that you need to spend a little extra to also have them balanced. I'm just trying to figure out what flywheel to go with. I"m not a fan of the Fidanza lightweight flywheel that others are. So i'll be watching this post aswell. Post up some results dyno/track testing would be very helpful!!!
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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I am currently leaning towards the Textralia with the billet steel flywheel.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I am currently leaning towards the Textralia with the billet steel flywheel.
I basically have that same setup but for less than $400.

17lb steel flywheel with ceramic clutch disk. Hardly any chatter at all but it holds like a mother and the pedal is as light as the stocker.

Which one is the "official" textralia and which one is $115?


Last edited by Blue02ws6; Sep 28, 2006 at 05:22 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 05:33 PM
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The one on the left is the official Tex. I believe the one on the right is the infamous $200 clutch on ebay. Hows it holding up? Tex has the best customer service of all the clutch manufacturers, and if a problem surfaces they will take care of you.

I have a Tex and can say it is a great clutch and drives almost stock like, but grabs like hell when you want it to. It can also be slipped out of the hole unlike many other aftermarket clutches that are on/off.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffs FRC
The one on the left is the official Tex. I believe the one on the right is the infamous $200 clutch on ebay. Hows it holding up? Tex has the best customer service of all the clutch manufacturers, and if a problem surfaces they will take care of you.

I have a Tex and can say it is a great clutch and drives almost stock like, but grabs like hell when you want it to. It can also be slipped out of the hole unlike many other aftermarket clutches that are on/off.

It holds awsome, there are 5 around here that are using it. One is a cammed ls1 with a 150 shot and pulls low 1.6 60's. No problems at all. Bought mine with a brand new LUK pressure plate for $250 shipped. I also bought a 17lb lightened flysheel with SFI certification for $135. As for customer service, I will guarentee if you call the people that sell this one you will get a person the first ring and if you want you can talk to the owner of the company and he will answer all your questions. Too bad most of these forums shut down anything that serfaces about these clutches because they don't advertise on these boards.... It is freaking ridiculous that there can't be a car community without being ruled by PAID sponsors....

You know, parts for a LS1 really don't cost more to make than anything other part, it is simply marketing that keeps these prices high.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 05:49 PM
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I would have been more willing to try one if I had an f-body just because of the ease of installation. Clutch swaps on a C5 are much more involved and I didnt want to have to install another clutch anytime soon.

Believe me I cringed when I dropped a grand for the Tex, but after all is said and done Im completely happy with the purchase.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 05:58 PM
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yeah I was going to get a textralia, one of my buddies got one and it works great. Then we saw these and another guy said screw it and he decided to become the ginnie pig and his worked out so good more decided to get them and no one has had a problem. There is a huge stink about behind the scenes and there supposedly won't be that many made again, but I am happy with my setup and the price I paid. I have had spec stage III, RAM, LS6, and a mc cloud and this is the best I have owned to say the least. I have heard that the spec +'s are great clutches and that the exedy is nice, as well as the textralia but it you don't want to or can't pay $800+ for a clutch I would seriously consider this setup. I mean seriously I have less than $400 in my setup with lightened flywheel and ceramic clutch and it performs on par with $1K+ setups.....I thought it was a no brainer.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 10:45 PM
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Did you find out who they(ebay seller) were manufacturing the clutches for? I emailed them and couldnt get an answer. I have an idea of who they were manufactured for, but not totally sure. If you dont want to say send me a pm.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 01:29 AM
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the ls7 clutch will be fine as long as you do not intend to run drag radials, I have put close to 20k miles on the ls7, no slip, feels like stock (engages a little closer to the floor that the zo6 clutch) and handels my maggie just fine.



If I was running DR's or spent a lot of time on the drag strip then I would be looking at the OZ700, but for street tires I do not belive you will have a problem.

More Than Zero
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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I can point out several differences in that photo. The riveting is different which means it was not done by the same people. The spring basket in the center is differnet.

Ok, so you have 6 puck disc that looks similar that doesn't mean it is the same.

We have a Textralia in Tommy's car. It holds fine behind 503 RWHP.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 08:35 AM
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I have been very happy with my RPS setup and this is with over 700 rwhp and 4600 miles on it so far and no issues
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
I can point out several differences in that photo. The riveting is different which means it was not done by the same people. The spring basket in the center is differnet.

Ok, so you have 6 puck disc that looks similar that doesn't mean it is the same.

We have a Textralia in Tommy's car. It holds fine behind 503 RWHP.

lol, we have compared them side by side. You can not visually tell a difference. ESPECIALLY in that pic, if so get a new monitor.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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As I said, look at the rivets in the pucks. One has both rivets installed on one side. The other has had rivets installed from both directions.

The rivets are those shiny silver things in the middle of the pucks...

There was a side by side picture posted of both discs.

I'll post both pics together so you can see the difference.




If you look closely you'll see that the pucks are the same in shape, but are a different color. You'll also notice the edge around the puck is a more copper color. In additon, you'll notice the rivets are alternating on the picture from BYUN, and the other one the rivets are in the same side. You'll also notice the center hub is set up differently.

IMHO, This would indicate most likely a different puck material being used , and that it not assembled by the same group of people.

I'm not saying what you pieced together isn't working for you. But folks try to assume its a certain vendor. People have made all sorts of assumptions saying there is some huge markup, and everyone is being ripped off. In the ad for those discs, it says the discs were being sold at the distributors cost, not what they sold it to the end user for.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 03:28 PM
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Just get a Spec 2+ or 3+ and then you wont have to worry about it any more.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
As I said, look at the rivets in the pucks. One has both rivets installed on one side. The other has had rivets installed from both directions.

The rivets are those shiny silver things in the middle of the pucks...

There was a side by side picture posted of both discs.

I'll post both pics together so you can see the difference.




If you look closely you'll see that the pucks are the same in shape, but are a different color. You'll also notice the edge around the puck is a more copper color. In additon, you'll notice the rivets are alternating on the picture from BYUN, and the other one the rivets are in the same side. You'll also notice the center hub is set up differently.

IMHO, This would indicate most likely a different puck material being used , and that it not assembled by the same group of people.

I'm not saying what you pieced together isn't working for you. But folks try to assume its a certain vendor. People have made all sorts of assumptions saying there is some huge markup, and everyone is being ripped off. In the ad for those discs, it says the discs were being sold at the distributors cost, not what they sold it to the end user for.

The bottom one is a textralia. I got it off byunspeeds website. The one I have is excatally like a textralia. I have seen a real one and this one side by side.

Last edited by Blue02ws6; Sep 29, 2006 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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Yes, you have the top one. That is the one that Hilton took pics of. That is from the same place you purchased yours.
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