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I decided to go ahead and change out my spark plugs after reading various posts that it's not that bad.
Well, started with the drivers side. The wires came off no problem but the plugs won't break free. I have a 5/8 spark plug socket with a swivel joint and am getting a good grip on the plugs but they won't budge.
The car sat overnight so it is cold - 2001 with 53K miles.
I was thinking of using a breaker bar on the ratchet but before I do, I thought I'd see if any of you have other ideas.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'13-'14,'19-'20-'21-'22
With stock exhaust manifolds I agree this is a PITA.
But I had more problems with the plug wires than getting the plugs out. Breaker bar might give you a little more room. Suggest you start with the easiest access plug and work from there. Just be careful not to crack the plug.
I was thinking of using a breaker bar on the ratchet ...
Thanks.
I assume that you know what you're doing... but if you're not sure, I would stop right now and take it to someone who does. I really hope it's not necessary to use a breaker bar... I was planning to change plugs in my car this weekend. I've NEVER had to use a breaker bar to get the plugs out of any other car I've ever owned... Are they the original plugs?
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by brucemoose2
I assume that you know what you're doing... but if you're not sure, I would stop right now and take it to someone who does. I really hope it's not necessary to use a breaker bar... I was planning to change plugs in my car this weekend. I've NEVER had to use a breaker bar to get the plugs out of any other car I've ever owned... Are they the original plugs?
Please don't take this as an insult - You are going counter-clockwise, right?
This is all pretty basic stuff, so I'm sure you're doing it correctly. The only thing I can think is the plugs weren't installed with antiseize or something.
Please don't take this as an insult - You are going counter-clockwise, right?
This is all pretty basic stuff, so I'm sure you're doing it correctly. The only thing I can think is the plugs weren't installed with antiseize or something.
steel plug threads in aluminum heads can seize so yes you might need a breaker bar if they are really snug. You can cure this from happening the next time by putting a little anti-seize on the threads before you put in the new plugs. When you go and put them back in just snug them though you deffinetly don't need a breaker bar to tighten them. lol just read the two posts right above this one. I think they were right on track, I might have been just a little more detailed.
I've had some stubborn plugs in a variety of cars, but nothing I had to use a breaker bar on. Sounds like you need to take it to someone before things get worse, and if you don't know what your doing, they most certainly will.
OMG this is just spark plugs guys, a monkey could change a spark plug. You unscrew the old one and you screw a new one in.....it's not rocket science. You won't hurt it even if you use a breaker to break them loose as long as you are turning it the right direction. Which my god I hope you are, if not put down the keys to a corvette FOREVER. lol
Solved the problem and bought myself a pivoting head 1/2 drive ratchet with a 20 inch long handle from Sears. Once I had the additional leverage, they loosened up no problems and had everything buttoned up again in about an hour and a half.
My car has 53K miles and they were the factory plugs but once I had the leverage from the longer ratchet, it was easy. I did use anti seize on the new ones.
I would encourage anyone who plans on changing plugs to use a similar ratchet as it makes the job a snap and I had no cuts, scrapes etc. because my hands were well out of the tight spots.
Solved the problem and bought myself a pivoting head 1/2 drive ratchet with a 20 inch long handle from Sears. Once I had the additional leverage, they loosened up no problems and had everything buttoned up again in about an hour and a half.
My car has 53K miles and they were the factory plugs but once I had the leverage from the longer ratchet, it was easy. I did use anti seize on the new ones.
I would encourage anyone who plans on changing plugs to use a similar ratchet as it makes the job a snap and I had no cuts, scrapes etc. because my hands were well out of the tight spots.
Excellent job; it can be difficult to obtain the proper leverage w/ lack of clearance.
I've never had to use more than a 3/8ths drive rachet to get them out... always use anti-seize when re-installing, then hand tight + a little nudge, about 1/16th to 1/8th turn.
Please don't take this as an insult - You are going counter-clockwise, right?
haha that's some funny ****. it's not an insult. one time i was trying to get the rotors off and i was turning the wrong way. i was like god dam this crap is on tight....bought a long steel pipe and breakered way and snap sometimes you just get disoriented how about trying some pb blaster or liquid wrench.....is that a bad idea? kvn
steel plug threads in aluminum heads can seize so yes you might need a breaker bar if they are really snug. You can cure this from happening the next time by putting a little anti-seize on the threads before you put in the new plugs. When you go and put them back in just snug them though you deffinetly don't need a breaker bar to tighten them. lol just read the two posts right above this one. I think they were right on track, I might have been just a little more detailed.
How long has it been since they were last changed? Plugs will seize in the aluminum heads if they are left in for a long time. The problem is that the plugs last a long time. Even if the plugs don't need changing, they should be pulled at least once year to make sure they don't seize. Anti-seize or a drop or two of motor oil on the threads will solve the problem. Also, they only need to be torqued to about 11 ft/lbs.
Sounds like some one got a little carried away on your last plug change.
You should be able to break them loose with a little longer bar. I only use 3/8" drive rachet about 10 inches long and they come out no problem.
I have found that it helps to remove the coil pack on the drivers side - gives just a little more clearance for the back two plugs.
Last edited by EStreeter; Oct 11, 2006 at 06:11 PM.
i would like to see how he got 1/2 in. dr. in there ,mainly driver side. ya know second thought i wouldnt want to see , his handle is point and shoot . tell me they gave him firearms unreal
Solved the problem and bought myself a pivoting head 1/2 drive ratchet with a 20 inch long handle from Sears. Once I had the additional leverage, they loosened up no problems and had everything buttoned up again in about an hour and a half.
My car has 53K miles and they were the factory plugs but once I had the leverage from the longer ratchet, it was easy. I did use anti seize on the new ones.
I would encourage anyone who plans on changing plugs to use a similar ratchet as it makes the job a snap and I had no cuts, scrapes etc. because my hands were well out of the tight spots.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by EStreeter
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I have found that it helps to remove the coil pack on the drivers side - gives just a little more clearance for the back two plugs.
Glad it worked for you. The first time changing them can be a bear. The next time will be easier because you will know the shortcuts. A good way to get some of them started in those hard to get places is to use a piece of rubber hose on the plug and then screw it in.