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Before I try fancy new brakes on the 03 Vert, I thought I would practice on the Wife's Volvo 850. Put in in new Zimmerman 11" drilled front rotors and pads. Install went fine, but the left outboard is now significantly scored. It stops OK but makes noise. Have only put 10 miles on it. Will this thing smooth out or am I screwed!
Gunner
Scoring is caused by hard spots in the pad...the pad is suppose to be softer than the rotor... If the rotors are soft, you have a problem...
Soft pads will stop better, be quieter, but will last significantly less.
BMW uses one of the softest brake pad compound in the industry, their brake sytems is second to none... their pads are short lived... very safe, and you will rarely see a BMW without dust on the wheels.
BMW uses one of the softest brake pad compound in the industry, their brake sytems is second to none... their pads are short lived... very safe, and you will rarely see a BMW without dust on the wheels.
Scoring is caused by hard spots in the pad...the pad is suppose to be softer than the rotor... If the rotors are soft, you have a problem...
Soft pads will stop better, be quieter, but will last significantly less.
BMW uses one of the softest brake pad compound in the industry, their brake sytems is second to none... their pads are short lived... very safe, and you will rarely see a BMW without dust on the wheels.
Ohh think your a bit off on two parts. BMW brakes are some of the worst dusting brakes ever, and two the brake pads are so soft that glaze over soo quickly from exces heat that the brakes give out quickly.
Learned quickly not to get too close behind a Bimmer going into a braking zone,.
I don't track my BMW, but it is the best braking car I have ever owned including the Vette. Maybe if you are on them a lot then they fade, fortunately haven't experience that.
I hand wash my wife's 330xi weekly, the wheels get a nasty black dust on them, especially the fronts...and that's only with 90-100 miles. They do clean up nice though!
If you have a race pad like a Hawk Blue you will hear the pad grinding the rotor. However, if you have a worn groove or similar scoring and are hearing a grinding noise you need to take things apart and check the rotor, pads and caliper for something incorrect. You could have a stone jammed in some place.
explain "scored" . is there a groove cut into the rotor. brakes need to "bed in" . can take couple hundred miles. you can ruin new pads in 50 miles. how did the piston feel pushing in compared to non scored side ? how did slides feel ? did ya lube them ? i take emory paper and sand all rotors at right angles to hub,not much just like scratch them then wash them,paper towel dry till i can wipe clean. never hurts to baby brakes for 500 miles
Ohh think your a bit off on two parts. BMW brakes are some of the worst dusting brakes ever, and two the brake pads are so soft that glaze over soo quickly from exces heat that the brakes give out quickly.
Why do you continue to critique my input, and post arguments to my post??? I am Not some dummy on this forum. If you could read, you would see that I said "very safe, and you will rarely see a BMW without dust on the wheels. For those that are literally challenged, this means they dust a lot...
WE>>> The GM C5 Prototype team, did a study on the BMW braking system and found it to be a superior braking system, but at the cost of too much dusting and too short of pad life..Everything is a give and take with designing a car. We chose what we found to be the best all around braking system and designed the best system for our customers.. 99% of our customers never see a track, you seem to force negatives into every post if the car is not being tracked.,.. I try to help the majority of people here with good honest posts for the average C5 Owner. To say I am a bit off is an insult to my tenure with GM and my 7 year involvement with the C5 and how any why we design what we do.
Learned quickly not to get too close behind a Bimmer going into a braking zone,.
No where did the original poster mention that he drove the car on a Road course... Why do you always post negatives about our cars if they aren't tracked... Or , when I address the ISSUE FOR 99% OF THE C5 owners...you are in the vast minority,
I'm trying to help this guy with his problem, and you are trying to discredit my input...with false statements and drivel about tracking your car... We all know you track your car.
Sorry if IM being Honest with you... If you notice I do not address issues on tracking. Maybe you should not post your input for the average C5 owner who comes here looking for some help with there car. and not influence them with your track theories. It only clouds the help.
Bill aka ET
explain "scored" . is there a groove cut into the rotor. brakes need to "bed in" . can take couple hundred miles. you can ruin new pads in 50 miles. how did the piston feel pushing in compared to non scored side ? how did slides feel ? did ya lube them ? i take emory paper and sand all rotors at right angles to hub,not much just like scratch them then wash them,paper towel dry till i can wipe clean. never hurts to baby brakes for 500 miles
The rotor on the left side is pristine, smooth and shiny. The outboard part of the rotor on the right is now rough with concentric grooves like an record (if anyone remembers what those are...) The pads are new. Pedal pressure is good and stopping is even. All I can figure is that the pad was gouged in the first mile or two and that the debris is now trapped in the pad. I put ten more miles at various speeds hoping that it would smooth out. It is not getting any better and is still noisy. I guess I tear the thing down and see what I find. ARGH!
The rotor on the left side is pristine, smooth and shiny. The outboard part of the rotor on the right is now rough with concentric grooves like an record (if anyone remembers what those are...) The pads are new. Pedal pressure is good and stopping is even. All I can figure is that the pad was gouged in the first mile or two and that the debris is now trapped in the pad. I put ten more miles at various speeds hoping that it would smooth out. It is not getting any better and is still noisy. I guess I tear the thing down and see what I find. ARGH!
Take the pads out of that calper..
get some 36 or # 80 grit emery paper, place the emery on a flat surface like a 2X4... grit facing up.. place the pad surface on the emery and with some down force, rub the pads back and forth and remove about 1 to 2 mm of material. reinstall
Take the pads out of that calper..
get some 36 or # 80 grit emery paper, place the emery on a flat surface like a 2X4... grit facing up.. place the pad surface on the emery and with some down force, rub the pads back and forth and remove about 1 to 2 mm of material. reinstall
i see you have turned some wrenches. i take new pads and rub them together before putting in. seems like he got some thing in their. no joke a motorcycle dealer put pads on a bike one was backwards killed the rotor. i,m still concerned about the shake at 75 on this guys car
Just a really dumb question.....did you put the pad in with the metal side on the rotor by accident?
It's been asked and answered many times before. Turns out GPracer1 was correct. I'm glad you got it figured out, but too bad you had to fry a rotor to find out. Just have it turned to clean it up and you'll be fine.
I have done at least 500 brake jobs in my past when I used to wrench. I did the same thing once at the start of my career, but caught it before I drove it. Never did that again.
The part that sucks is that you have to buy a whole pad kit for just one wheel. Oh well, at least you fingered it out.
PS. Dont drive close behind me...
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