ABS problem
unlocks only after the engine is shut off.
cant use the car and not sure what to do, anyone has this problem ever?
problem goes away, with abs disconnected
What's locking ???
Your locking the tires and skidding ???
The brake pedal is staying down after you push it ???
If the pedal is staying down, are the brakes on or off after you release the brake pedal ???
Sounds like the brake pedal return spring may have come loose or broken, have you looked at that?? Though why disconnecting the ABS would affect anything doesn't make sense ?
Check for codes (see https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=26&TopicID=1
if you don't know how to display them, and post them here. You are especially looking for codes that are C codes rather than H codes.
A code looks something like this ..... B0401 C or C1201 H
The letter at the end shows whether the code is Current or History.
could the ebcm fail, without the computer detecting?
If you're sure you're showing no codes, then I'd suspect the master cylinder, except you're stating that
A) turning the car off solves the problem
B) turning off ABS (how're you doing that?) solves the problem.
If A and B are true, then sounds like time for the EBCM to be looked at. Replacing the mechanical side of the BCM requires a Tech2 scanner to perform a purge of air from the system, so unless you have access to a Tech2 I'd starting making an appointment at a shop that you trust to do the work.





I would try to flush the system with clean fresh DOT4 fluid and see what happens. Still try to see exactly what wheels are being effected by jacking up the car on all fours and applying the brakes.BC
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Well,,,,, riddle me this MR. GM service tech. If you disconnect the "electrical" portion of the system and the problem GOES AWAY,,,how can it be the mechanical side of the system??????????????
I would be more willing to say that the EBTCM side of the system is the problem. With the ELECTRICAL side of the system out of the picture it works or should I say "IT DOESN'T LOCK UP".
I'm just trying to stay of the "EASTER EGG" parts replacement game and try to save you some bucks. Talk the problem over with the service adviser and see what he says. Theres always more than one side of the story and sometimes,,, there is critical information left out of the conversations.
Let us know what you figure out. I'm interested!
Bill C


In addition to the electrical side of things, this is one area I would explore as well. If the master cylinder is preventing the fluid from returning to the reservoir, or if there is sufficient swelling inside the rubber brake hoses allowing them to effectively become "check valves" and impede the reverse flow of the fluid too.All of these particular symptoms may be caused by, or at the very least aggravated by, any rubber part in the entire system that has swollen due to contamination.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Robert
BTW, Bill Curlee:
Isn't there some rubber components inside the BPMV? Around the valves maybe?





If it were mechanical (BPMV, hose, wheel Cyl, proportioning valve etc ect... it would lock up all the time.BC
Here's my thinking on this ... tell me where I'm off track ....
Assuming C5FLORIDA is correct (and there is no reason to believe he isn't) then disabling the electronic side of the system makes the problem go away ... so ...
Mechanical brake system is working. There are no kinks in lines, bad fluid, master cylinder issues, etc.
So problem has to be in the EBCM ... but it seems weird that it isn't throwing codes ....
C5FLORIDA applies brake with EBCM enabled (disabled, again, no problem) and the brakes "lock" and stay "locked". This would lead me to believe that several things have to be happening within the EBCM itself.
First, it has to be making a "bad" decision that one or more wheels are "locking" when they aren't.
Second, it has to be then commanding ON the pump to allow it to pulse brake fluid to one or more calipers where it "thinks" there is wheel lock occuring.
Finally, it is unable to "pulse" the brakes and instead is pressurizing the lines to one or more calipers and not releasing the pressure.
BUT, if the EBCM is getting a false "wheel is locked" signal, wouldn't it first want to RELEASE pressure on that caliper, rather than put more on it?? Instead it seems to be adding pressure to the system .... HEY .. could the EBCM be getting a false "WHEEL LOCKED" signal from one wheel, be REDUCING pressure on that wheel, yet be INCREASING pressure to the other three "good" wheels????? If it's doing that then C5FLORIDA would think that the car is "braking" when he has his foot off the brake, and the EBCM thinks "I'm doing the right thing, I'm reducing pressure on one caliper and braking the s**t out of the remaining 3 ????? The EBCM wouldn't throw codes because it believes it is "doing the right thing" ... like certain politicians out there ???
Could a bad wheel speed sensor cause this ??? OR a bad signal from a wheel speed sensor (due to glitches in the wiring) cause this??
I would look at the wheel speed sensor input using a Tech2 scanner to see if the EBCM is getting a "bad" or "false" reading.
Your response(s) are looked forward to with fear and trepidation ...
Steve





Great post!!
The 2001+ EBTCM are mini computers and preform some pretty complex stuff really quick. Its not very difficult for it to get whacked out! When mine went bad, it would apply all four brakes in the pulsed brake mode while the car was driving down a perfectly straight flat and smooth road.
The wife told me that it was doing this and I told her that she was crazy!!!!
I get that run up my A$$ quite frequently!
Checking the wheel speed sensor outputs from all four sensors is a snap! Just unplug the main connector from the EBTCM and probe the pins that correlate to each wheel. You should be able to read the correct resistance and also an AC signal in millivolts that increases as wheel speed increases.
My problem is why would it read NORMALLY until he taps the breaks? If it were a faulty wheel speed signal,,,,,it would throw the DTC for that wheel as soon as the car moves a few feet.
I would suspect that the EBTCM is corrupt and needs to be replaced. If it were me,,,I would get a re-manufactured unit off the INTERNET for $450 that comes with a "LIFETIME" warranty.
Thanks
Bill C
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 24, 2006 at 11:32 AM.
Thank you for the complement. It also dawned on me later (duhhh ...) that when C5FLORIDA releases the brake pedal the EBCM should command the pump OFF and let the brake system return to its "normal" non-pressurized state. The EBCM seems to not be doing that.
Then I thought "well maybe the problem is in the sensor that determines whether the brake pedal is in the ON or OFF position", but then thinking hard (my head hurts when I do this kind of thing
) I realized that if that sensor (switch) was bad then, as you point out, why does the brake system act normally up until the brake pedal is steppped on?Gotta be the EBCM ... but why no codes ??? Is it so effed up that it doesn't even realize it is effed up ?? I've been in the computer industry for a LONG time and it isn't hard to believe that a software/hardware glitch is occurring that the computer itself doesn't recognize it has a problem. Hopefully GM is looking at cases like this and further "tuning" the software to recognize these kinds of situations.
Bill, I think you hit the nail on the head in recommending the EBCM be replaced.
Steve





Contact GM Customer Assistance, tell them your plight and see if they Will lend you a hand with the cost of the module replacement! I know it sounds strange but, you never know. They helped me and a whole bunch of other people with the repairs. MAKE SURE that you tell them that IT is a SAFETY ISSUE!!
Let us know how you make out. The number is in your owners manual.
BC


Like Bill said, keep us posted.
) that is governed by the BCM, not the EBCM, they will flash (reprogram) the BCM tommarow morning, so i will keep you updated.Does this make sense to you?
PLEASE keep us posted !!!
Thanks,
Steve






