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Doing a cam what else should I consider

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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Default Doing a cam what else should I consider

I have a buddy that is ASE certified and he gave me a proposal this weekend. He wants me to build a computer system and he is going to do a cam and pulley swap for me. I might jump into a LS6 intake not sure, what else should I consider while he is in there. Would the timing chain and oil pump be easily accessible?
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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Timing chain and oil pump upgrades. I did the Rollmaster double timing chain and the Melling High Flow & Pressure oil pump.

Keith
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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What cam did you end up going with? I'm sorry to state the obvious that I'm sure you already know, but don't forget matched springs and maybe pushrods for your set up. You could also add one of these.:
http://www.nastyperformance.com/2PeiceTimingCover.html
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass
What cam did you end up going with? I'm sorry to state the obvious that I'm sure you already know, but don't forget matched springs and maybe pushrods for your set up. You could also add one of these.:
http://www.nastyperformance.com/2PeiceTimingCover.html
Definately not the obvious. I have not settled on a particular cam yet. All that I have read leads me to a GX3 but not sure. I will still need the car to pass smog so nothing radical. I would like to see 400hp. I will add springs and pushrods to the mix. I am going to start checking vendors for "packages"
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 12:42 PM
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The LSA of the cam is the most important part of the cam that affects emissions. The wide the better( 115+ ).

Keith
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kromberg
The LSA of the cam is the most important part of the cam that affects emissions. The wide the better( 115+ ).

Keith
And the smaller the number the more "bumpity bump" the idle is. I have a 112 and it shakes the antenna back and forth at idle. Don't forget to get a new crank bolt.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by teddyca
I have a buddy that is ASE certified and he gave me a proposal this weekend. He wants me to build a computer system and he is going to do a cam and pulley swap for me. I might jump into a LS6 intake not sure, what else should I consider while he is in there. Would the timing chain and oil pump be easily accessible?
Springs and Timing chain. I have used the latest GM chain (ls2) on my last two cams and its fine. You will also need springs, new water pumps gaskets new timing cover gasket, crank bolt, crank pinning kit (I would not do it w.out pinning the crank). I would not (and have not) get new pushrods, the stock ones are fine! Also, if you are going to go with a big cam like the X3 you will need a good tuner and I am not sure it will pass smog. You can't just stuff that big *** cam in and hope a gm tech can make it run, you will not be happy.

Good luck!
-Ken
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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How about a set of heads?

If you add heads, then I would add lifters.

Certainly do the oil pump and timing chain while you are in there.

I have a new, never used, Rollmaster Double timing chain for sale if you are interested - I got it for a head/cam swap, but I've since decided to go another way, so it's for sale - PM me if interested

Depending on what cam you install, I would put in a set of hardended lifters. Also MUST do a NEW crank bolt - GM bolt's are a one time use deal so you gotta get a new one -

Underdrive pulleys?

Do you have headers? You'll need headers to get the most out of a cam set up I believe.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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Right now the only set of heads would be a pair of LS6 heads. There is a local pair available that I am still considering but we will see. Yes I have full exhaust. The list keeps getting bigger
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 05:39 PM
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Get springs and pushrods....the stock ones suck. From your post you are looking to save money and not spend a whole lot, I wouldn't pin the crank.... that is totally not necessary. As for gaskets you don't HAVE to buy new ones the stockers are reusable and work fine. Get a LS2 timing chain, it is cheap and good insurance timing chain.
If you can swing it get a LS6 intake also.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 05:39 PM
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Default Rod Bolts?

I'd think about rod bolts also. I did a H/C set up in June 06 and spun a rod bearing 3 weeks ago. From what I've read rod bolt can be a weak link in the early C5's.

Bob K.

BTW, I went with a LS2 402.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue02ws6
Get springs and pushrods....the stock ones suck. From your post you are looking to save money and not spend a whole lot, I wouldn't pin the crank.... that is totally not necessary. As for gaskets you don't HAVE to buy new ones the stockers are reusable and work fine. Get a LS2 timing chain, it is cheap and good insurance timing chain.
If you can swing it get a LS6 intake also.
Along with what is previously mentioned. 2002 or later LS6 heads and intake is a must! Also as mentioned a set of long tube headers to uncap the new power you'll have (there are places to get a smog with L/T headers) hi-flo cats, X-pipe and Ti mufflers.
Go for it
SLPRC5
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob K
I'd think about rod bolts also. I did a H/C set up in June 06 and spun a rod bearing 3 weeks ago. From what I've read rod bolt can be a weak link in the early C5's.

Bob K.

BTW, I went with a LS2 402.
lol, wow you guys are insane, he posted he is putting a comp together for labor....and you tell him to look at pulling the motor to put rod bolts in...
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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There are some cams out there that make good power won't result in a tattle tale idle in the Republik of Kalifornia. The TR Old Man Cam, CheaTR come to mind along with several others. Some will likely depend on what you can get through emissions. The CheaTR was also designed with the stock exhaust manifolds in mind.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kromberg
The LSA of the cam is the most important part of the cam that affects emissions. The wide the better( 115+ ).

Keith
theres more to it than that. overlap has alot to do with it
I wouldnt go higher than a 224 duration if you have to have the (banana in the tailpipe) g5x3 is a big cam and needs a great tune. i had a tr224, fm10, fm14, fm6 and now a custon 228 232 comp xe-r. for my tastes, unless you have ITB's,i wouldnt go over a 228. with a killer set of heads and a 228 cam 450rwhp+ through 4.10's ,6sp,will be doable

Last edited by pdd000; Nov 20, 2006 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 94legaleagle
How about a set of heads?

If you add heads, then I would add lifters.

Certainly do the oil pump and timing chain while you are in there.

I have a new, never used, Rollmaster Double timing chain for sale if you are interested - I got it for a head/cam swap, but I've since decided to go another way, so it's for sale - PM me if interested

Depending on what cam you install, I would put in a set of hardended lifters. Also MUST do a NEW crank bolt - GM bolt's are a one time use deal so you gotta get a new one -

Underdrive pulleys?

Do you have headers? You'll need headers to get the most out of a cam set up I believe.

Hardened pushrods? James
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by teddyca
Right now the only set of heads would be a pair of LS6 heads. There is a local pair available that I am still considering but we will see. Yes I have full exhaust. The list keeps getting bigger
Get them. I was in the same boat and decided the right way for me to save money was with non CNC'ed LS6 heads, and headers. It's way easier to do it all in one shot and get one tune. If you go with a tamer, more emissions friendly cam like I did, (LPE GT2-*) you won't need to spend anything on springs. I spent a fair amount of time on the phone with Lingenfelter and they insisted that I use the LS6 valve springs. In fact, they sell those springs with this cam in their kits. You'll also not have to worry about changing out springs every 10,000 miles.
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