Let me preface this question by saying I performed a search and found some info, but would like more... I recently bought a stock 99 FRC, and although I would love to have a 400-420 rwhp beast, I am not sure I want to go to the expense necessary (for the time being) to do a heads/cam package (along with the other upgrades) that would get me there. I saw an article at http://www.gmhightechperformance.com..._head_install/, in which they took a set of AFR 205CC heads and put them on a stock 99 Vert. With a tune, they managed to squeak out about 37whp from the heads alone. My question is, does anyone here have any experience with adding heads only, and if so, is a 37hp gain realistic?

Would it be realistic to assume you could throw a set of these AFR heads on a stock LS1, along with long tube headers and a Vararam to get somewhere around 370hp at the wheels? I would be thrilled to get those kinds of numbers for now, and possibly would be content to keep it there. If, down the road I found I wanted more, I could always go back and add a cam to push just above 400whp. I figure going heads only would save me $1,400 at a minimum ($1,000 for an install and $400 for a cam), and 370hp would be enough to keep me smiling for a long time. I might be able to sell the wife on that. Also, would I have to switch out the stock clutch at this hp level? (it will be a street car, with a possible visit to the track once just to see how it runs)

I should probably also throw in here that from what I have read, I think I would be able to handle the head install, but would not be inclined to take the time necessary to do the cam and heads.

 

Yes, the AFR's should get you where you want to be. Contact Tony and talk to him about it, that article was done by Vinci for AFR. There is more information on their web site.

One thing I found, and I am not sure others will agree, I found the cam was easier than the heads to install. I did the cam and then several months later the heads. Between the two, I think the cam was easier.

 

I'm doing both the heads and cam at the same time. There is some overlap in the jobs, not to mention the cost of 2 tunes. I'll also have the chance to have the right springs put on the heads while everything is apart. One bigger package is certainly cheaper than two smaller ones.

 

I think a cam alone will give you better gains than heads alone, and is lots cheaper as well.

 

I have asked this question before and no one on this forum seems interested. If I had an LS6 I would put heads on it and call it good, I wouldn't even touch the cam. Then again, I love the idle of a stock cam, I realize that may make me not fit in here but that is how I feel.

I don't know if you will reach 370 rwhp, but I suspect a strong increase in power.

 

In addition, I don't trust magazine install/dyno tests. I just assume there is some 'advertising' money exchanging hands behind the scenes.

I talked to my tuner about the numbers he sees from the combinations he tunes on a daily basis. I suspect he sees more dyno numbers than a magazine editor.

 

Depends on your philosophy for what you want the car to do. I did a cam, idles like stock and I gained 40 hp with it bringing me to 370 with stock heads. By most accounts, it is a small cam. (See signature)

But, I didn't want a lopey idle and I wanted my wife to still feel comfortable driving the car. I also didn't want to make a ton of power at 7,000 RPM because I don't drive the car there. I got pretty much exactly what I wanted from this setup, and the rev limiter is set to stock. Here is how my mods went, from stock to current setup:

(Note, the curves are a little shakey and may be off a few hp because I had to digitize them to cross plot them with Excel)

 

I think most underestimate the LS1 head potential. A reasonable cam will gain you some decent power and most likely the same or more than if you changed the heads. A cam is a less expensive proposition if money is an issue. Just be careful about size of the cam as I don't think our wife will much like a car that shakes, rattles and rolls.

 

I'm definitely with you on wanting something that idles more or less stock. I don't want a high rpm monster, but a car with a really broad torque curve. I would love a cam that's probably considered mild by most standards. I don't have a use for power that starts high and peaks at 7k. Vettenuts, you probably have a cam close to what i would choose. Perhaps I should flip-flop my original idea, and pay the $1,000 to have a $400 cam installed, and then consider doing heads in a year or two if at all... Actually, that was my original thought a month back.

 

The GT2-3 cam (207/220,.573/.578,118.5 LSA ) idles the best of any aftermarket cam and will give you 25/30 HP. Idles the same as stock, silky smooth.

 

Looks like an LS6 cam with a little bit more lift. If one already had an LS6 they could just put some 1.8 rockers on. Lingenfelter recommends te yellow springs with that cam, seems like a risky combo to me. I was under the impression that the yellow springs were almost at there limit at .550" lift?

 

A number of guys have put the 1.8's on the Z06 cam, the Cranes would be my preference due to their arc ratio (rockers are not the same ratio as they swing through their arc, stock rockers start out at 1.54 and when fully open they approach 1.7, whereas the Cranes will start at 1.89 and achieve 1.82 when the valve is fully open).

 

Your selling your self short if you just up-grade the heads and then do a cam job later. I agree with madeouttaglass Your already partially into a cam job and a cam job isn't really that difficult. I'm quite sure that if you post on your C5 regional forum, you can set up a MOD Party and find other people in your area that will be willing to lend a hand and provide technical assistance!! Then once your done, find a good local tuner and get that baby tuned!

BC

 

I agree with the guys - do the cam. It's actually not that bad.
Biggest issue is installing the balancer (get an underdrive balancer while you're at it). There is no coolant pouring everywhere, the gaskets are all modern and clean; so it's a fun, sanitary job to do.

Speaking of small cams, smooth idle, etc; there is an interesting
article on Comp Cam's web site (under the "magazine articles" section).
It's titled "3 lS1 cams" or something like that. They bolt on mild, mid, and wild cams and show the results.


DG

 

I'm no expert In this field but I think a cam Is only like $300. Your better off doing the H/C together because It will be easier to do now Vs Heads 1st, Cam later If you go that route. It's like getting a new clutch, and deciding to do a lighter flywheel later. Might as well do them both together to save labor $$ Plus you will get better performance doing both Instead of one. You can get a light cam If you don't want your drivability changed and still get 100 RWHP. Thats why It's a package....To save money and get the most performance. I would do both and get It over with because most Vette owners want to keep modding~so your better off with the package I.M.H.O

 

It is also somewhat dependent on if you are doing your own work. Part of the fun for me is the planning and then installation. If you are paying for someone to do the install, then a plan on where you are going with the car is probably in order as well.

 

I think this is the article:
http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...ID=-1044516358

 

Here’s another route, and likely more appealing to your budgetary goals.

$900 - Z06 heads (prepped with a good valve job and some mild porting)
$500 – Comp Cam, springs, retainers
$250 – Z06 intake manifold (you’ll want it in any event)

With headers and tune, depending on cam selection, you will be 395 – 415 at the wheels.

 

Excellent article. It makes me happy to have the GT2-4 waiting to go in this winter.

 

yep, afr's aren't really required on a na car. call gunnar at patriot performance for a great deal on a set of heads. then you can do heads and cam for less than the same money.