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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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Default shaking under braking

Car shakes badly under decelaration. My car does see some DE events, therefore, I concluded i must have warped the rotors. Well, I changed them out and have the same symptoms. I'm using stock pads.
any ideas?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:44 PM
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I have a similar problem and I am leaning towards bad wheel bearings, but I am just guessing and havent found the answer I need yet either.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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hmm could be. Lets stick together and figure this out.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:49 PM
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When you participate in DEs do you change the wheels? The reason I ask this is a lot of so called warping issues are related to the wheels and rotors not being mounted correctly. If there is corrosion around the hub when you remove the wheel and re-install it the rotor may move some while you are taking the wheel off. When you re-install the wheel it may not force the rotor all the way down to the hub flange and the rotor will then have a lot of run out causing the problem you described. Sometimes just loosening the wheel and making sure it is seated correctly afainst the rotor and the rotor is flush against the hub flange before evenly bolting the wheel down will get rid of the problem.
Bill
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BBQ
Car shakes badly under decelaration. My car does see some DE events, therefore, I concluded i must have warped the rotors. Well, I changed them out and have the same symptoms. I'm using stock pads.
any ideas?
Have you lifted the front end and checked to see if the wheels move in and out when you are pulling and pushing on them?

did you install new pads at the same time you did the rotors?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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i took additional care when I had the wheels off to make sure they are seated correctly and torqued to exactly 80lbs.

I did not replace the pads at the same time as the rotors.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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Can you specifically feel it in the front? Or could it possibly be a rear brake issue? Otherwise I would guess wheel bearings too.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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Whats shaking? Streering wheel? brake pedal? feel it it in the floor of the car?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclerage23
Whats shaking? Streering wheel? brake pedal? feel it it in the floor of the car?

In my case I can feel it through the steering wheel but also all through the car and it does seem to be coming from the front. Mine has a slight vibration even under normal driving too though and I have had the tires rebalanced with no improvement.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BBQ
i took additional care when I had the wheels off to make sure they are seated correctly and torqued to exactly 80lbs.

I did not replace the pads at the same time as the rotors.
80 ?? the lug nuts are to be torqued to 100 ft lbs not 80.

Did you take those little washers off the studs??

Caliper mounting brakets to 125 lb fts.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
80 ?? the lug nuts are to be torqued to 100 ft lbs not 80.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by robvuk
Can you specifically feel it in the front? Or could it possibly be a rear brake issue? Otherwise I would guess wheel bearings too.
It seems to be from the front. In an effort to troubleshoot, i pulled the e-brake to active rear brakes and there was no problem. Therefore, I believe the problem to be in the front.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
80 ?? the lug nuts are to be torqued to 100 ft lbs not 80.

Did you take those little washers off the studs??

Caliper mounting brakets to 125 lb fts.
ok, point taken. I couldn't remember the torque specs for the lugs. I will re-do it to 100 lb ft.
Brake caliper is however at 125 lb ft.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
80 ?? the lug nuts are to be torqued to 100 ft lbs not 80.

Did you take those little washers off the studs??

Caliper mounting brakets to 125 lb fts.

yes, i did take the washers off the studs, but I was having the problem before I did.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BBQ
It seems to be from the front. In an effort to troubleshoot, i pulled the e-brake to active rear brakes and there was no problem. Therefore, I believe the problem to be in the front.
The back brakes dont work like that, but its a good effort. Is the shake constant, all the time nonstop or is it almost like a flatspot in your tire, it feels strong then weak, then strong then week, getting faster and louder as you go speed up?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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Bent rim?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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I had a wheel bearing go bad and thats what it did.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclerage23
The back brakes dont work like that, but its a good effort. Is the shake constant, all the time nonstop or is it almost like a flatspot in your tire, it feels strong then weak, then strong then week, getting faster and louder as you go speed up?
no, the only shaking is when the brake is being applied. The faster speed I try to stop from, the worse it is.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclerage23
The back brakes dont work like that, but its a good effort. Is the shake constant, all the time nonstop or is it almost like a flatspot in your tire, it feels strong then weak, then strong then week, getting faster and louder as you go speed up?

Pulling on the parking brake doesn't engage the pads or rotor on the rear. It has its own shoes inside the hub of the rear rotors, so you could still have a warped rear rotor. But it still sounds like it might be bearing related if it's in the front. You might also have a glazed area on your front pads if you didn't change them when you changed the rotor. They might have overheated and aren't gripping the rotor evenly because of the glazing. Good luck.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert

Pulling on the parking brake doesn't engage the pads or rotor on the rear. It has its own shoes inside the hub of the rear rotors, so you could still have a warped rear rotor. But it still sounds like it might be bearing related if it's in the front. You might also have a glazed area on your front pads if you didn't change them when you changed the rotor. They might have overheated and aren't gripping the rotor evenly because of the glazing. Good luck.
could be. Is there a way to tell upon physical inspectoin if the pads have been glazed? is there a way to un-glaze?
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