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Car shakes badly under decelaration. My car does see some DE events, therefore, I concluded i must have warped the rotors. Well, I changed them out and have the same symptoms. I'm using stock pads.
any ideas?
When you participate in DEs do you change the wheels? The reason I ask this is a lot of so called warping issues are related to the wheels and rotors not being mounted correctly. If there is corrosion around the hub when you remove the wheel and re-install it the rotor may move some while you are taking the wheel off. When you re-install the wheel it may not force the rotor all the way down to the hub flange and the rotor will then have a lot of run out causing the problem you described. Sometimes just loosening the wheel and making sure it is seated correctly afainst the rotor and the rotor is flush against the hub flange before evenly bolting the wheel down will get rid of the problem.
Bill
Car shakes badly under decelaration. My car does see some DE events, therefore, I concluded i must have warped the rotors. Well, I changed them out and have the same symptoms. I'm using stock pads.
any ideas?
Have you lifted the front end and checked to see if the wheels move in and out when you are pulling and pushing on them?
did you install new pads at the same time you did the rotors?
Whats shaking? Streering wheel? brake pedal? feel it it in the floor of the car?
In my case I can feel it through the steering wheel but also all through the car and it does seem to be coming from the front. Mine has a slight vibration even under normal driving too though and I have had the tires rebalanced with no improvement.
Can you specifically feel it in the front? Or could it possibly be a rear brake issue? Otherwise I would guess wheel bearings too.
It seems to be from the front. In an effort to troubleshoot, i pulled the e-brake to active rear brakes and there was no problem. Therefore, I believe the problem to be in the front.
It seems to be from the front. In an effort to troubleshoot, i pulled the e-brake to active rear brakes and there was no problem. Therefore, I believe the problem to be in the front.
The back brakes dont work like that, but its a good effort. Is the shake constant, all the time nonstop or is it almost like a flatspot in your tire, it feels strong then weak, then strong then week, getting faster and louder as you go speed up?
The back brakes dont work like that, but its a good effort. Is the shake constant, all the time nonstop or is it almost like a flatspot in your tire, it feels strong then weak, then strong then week, getting faster and louder as you go speed up?
no, the only shaking is when the brake is being applied. The faster speed I try to stop from, the worse it is.
The back brakes dont work like that, but its a good effort. Is the shake constant, all the time nonstop or is it almost like a flatspot in your tire, it feels strong then weak, then strong then week, getting faster and louder as you go speed up?
Pulling on the parking brake doesn't engage the pads or rotor on the rear. It has its own shoes inside the hub of the rear rotors, so you could still have a warped rear rotor. But it still sounds like it might be bearing related if it's in the front. You might also have a glazed area on your front pads if you didn't change them when you changed the rotor. They might have overheated and aren't gripping the rotor evenly because of the glazing. Good luck.
Pulling on the parking brake doesn't engage the pads or rotor on the rear. It has its own shoes inside the hub of the rear rotors, so you could still have a warped rear rotor. But it still sounds like it might be bearing related if it's in the front. You might also have a glazed area on your front pads if you didn't change them when you changed the rotor. They might have overheated and aren't gripping the rotor evenly because of the glazing. Good luck.
could be. Is there a way to tell upon physical inspectoin if the pads have been glazed? is there a way to un-glaze?