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My mods so far: Corsa Pace Car, Dynatech headers w/ xpipe, hiflow cats, Callaway Intake, 160 degree stat, Dynotuned, DTE 3.90 Stage II, Micropolished,
Last Dyno: 351 RWHP/364 RWT
My goal: 385-395 RWHP/370-380 RWT
Considerations: The car is used on the street only. I really want to avoid serious traction issues and the mods required to correct them. Reliability and drivability are very important. Some Lope at idle is a good thing but not “necessary”. I want to keep the car another 3-4 yrs and put another 40K miles on it. With the 3.90 and other mods the car breaks loose pretty easily now, so I don’t feel like I need more low end power. I’d rather add it in the mid/higher range, presumably after I’ve hooked up and can get it to the ground. (Is this sound reasoning?)
The TR224/224/114, looks like a good candidate to me, what do you think?
The car will be driven in traffic, in Texas, in August, so I’m a little reluctant to use an underdrive pully. What say you, fellow Texans?
Hi any cam upgrade will get you in there close to the 400 RWHP area.You already have long-tubes . Many STOCK Z06 guys report 400 RWHP with just long tubes and bolt ons--no heads or cam !!!! So you are pretty much stuck with installing a cam which will get you to 390-400---- or leave it alone---OR maybe adding 1.85 rockers which will net you 10-15 RWHP and get you to 365.ADD an underdrive pulley will net you a proven 10 more----Now you are at 375--I had this combination for quite a while it was a blast to drive--you could roast the tires if you wanted to but could still leave from a dead stop and put up some fine ET #'s if you feathered the throttle.I went to cam and heads and now the car is undriveable from a dead stop----at 412 RWHP with stock LS6 heads 221/221--564/564 @ 114 cam the usual bolt ons . LT's
we used a 224/228 on a 90k mile 2002 C5 M6, stock exhaust manifolds/H pipe, only mods=Blackwing and Stinger catback
380rwhp with the cam and Powerbond UD pulley
plan on installing some AR longtubes in the spring
That's a nice setup. Should be very streetable and probably more mid-range with the LT's. With today's tuning the 224-228 112 is a great choice if you don't want to go nuts - like some of us.
I don't know what gains you'd see cam only, but you have good heads and an ls6 intake already on your setup being a 2004. I'm very happy with my 228/232 with its 412hp/394tq...still working on tuning to bring it higher if possible...but its not the cam's fault....just an older car with quirks and wear.
I recently did a head and cam swap. I had already added a Halltech Stinger CAI and a set of GHL Bullet cat back system that were on when the before dyno numbers were done. All at the same time as the H/C swap here is what I added:
TSP PRC stage 2.5 5.3L Heads with 220 cc intake runners
Comp Cam 228/232 .588/.595 111+1
American Racing Headers 1 3/4" with Hi flow cats
Shaner Ported TB
Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley
Ls6 ported oil pump
Before numbers were 307rwhp / 323rwtq
After numbers were 431rwhp / 400rwtq
The car really runs great now but it shakes at idle and I wasn't planning on that. I like the way it sounds but not the shaking. I had Jason at TSP order me another cam. Comp Cam 224/228 .581/.588 114+2
Jason doesn't think I will lose to much power and the idle will be calmer.
I have had race cars in the past and I just want this one to be fun. I don't want it to have that race car feel at idle.
The 224/228 on a 112 or 114 depending on what kind of idle you want, would be a good cam for you. If you want a little more aggressive cam, the 228/232 works great. If you don't mind a little shake at idle, the 111Lsa pulls like crazy or you could get the same cam on either 112 or 114 for a milder idle.
Hi any cam upgrade will get you in there close to the 400 RWHP area.You already have long-tubes . Many STOCK Z06 guys report 400 RWHP with just long tubes and bolt ons--no heads or cam !!!! So you are pretty much stuck with installing a cam which will get you to 390-400---- or leave it alone---OR maybe adding 1.85 rockers which will net you 10-15 RWHP and get you to 365.ADD an underdrive pulley will net you a proven 10 more----Now you are at 375--I had this combination for quite a while it was a blast to drive--you could roast the tires if you wanted to but could still leave from a dead stop and put up some fine ET #'s if you feathered the throttle.I went to cam and heads and now the car is undriveable from a dead stop----at 412 RWHP with stock LS6 heads 221/221--564/564 @ 114 cam the usual bolt ons . LT's
Interesting as I am just a smidge below you in hp but if I step on it from a rolling start the tires don't spin. Not sure if the fatter Z06 wheels and Goodyear GS-D3's are the reason but they don't spin.
On a 224/228 .581/.588 114+2 how would the idle be and will it pass a Cali smog sniff test?
I am hoping the idle will be pretty calm. Ikester has a video of his car on this forum, which has this cam except I am not sure about the +2 on the advance, and he says his car is smooth inside the car and has I little lope to it outside the vehicle. I have read where other people have a little shake but maybe theirs is on a 112LSA, not the 114 which will be smoother.
As far as passing the sniffer, I would call Andy at A&A, one of the supporting vendors that is listed over to the left, and ask him. Andy is real high on this cam as far as a daily driver to give almost stock driving characteristics. Tony Mamo at AFR is also high on this cam.
I am hoping the idle will be pretty calm. Ikester has a video of his car on this forum, which has this cam except I am not sure about the +2 on the advance, and he says his car is smooth inside the car and has I little lope to it outside the vehicle. I have read where other people have a little shake but maybe theirs is on a 112LSA, not the 114 which will be smoother.
It also depends on the tuner to keep it nice and smooth.
As far as passing the sniffer...that cam is right on the edge. Per Tony it can pass.
Heres an idle video of the 224/228 cam on a 114 +1.
It sound GREAT at idle.
I guess I'll stick with the 224/224 .568/.568 lift on a LSA 115.
I'm in Cali and it is really hard smog thru the sniffer without a tune for it.
Besides I'm running LT headers which is a big.
I made 440rwhp SAE through 4.10's with a 226-230 112lsa cam and afr 205's. its a great cam, street driving was excellent. im gonna try just a tad bigger cam. im going with the 228 232 111+1, .040 cometic gaskits. ill have a 8.62dcr and 11:31 scr which hopefully punts me over 450rwhp. i have nitto DR's out back. no tire spinach at all
The cam performs really well. It still has some low end and pulls like crazy starting around 4200rpm, it really plants you in the seat.
The only reason I am changing it is because of the shake at idle. The shake isn't to bad but I don't like it. I am moving down in duration a little bit to try to get into the powerband just a little earlier. Currently, at 70 mph in 6th gear, I am turning 1500 rpm with a 3.42 gear and I have an exhaust drone. It goes away at 1650 rpm. I think the motor is laboring as it is not into the powerband yet. I could have either changed the cam or gone to a 3.90 gear to move the rpm up. It is easier for me to change the cam. I do the labor myself.
This cam has less than 600 miles on it if you are interested in buying it. My new cam should be here this week and I am going to change it out next week.
I have all the boltons except for a 90/90 setup. I think to get to 450rwhp you would have the 90/90 also.
I recently did a head and cam swap. I had already added a Halltech Stinger CAI and a set of GHL Bullet cat back system that were on when the before dyno numbers were done. All at the same time as the H/C swap here is what I added:
TSP PRC stage 2.5 5.3L Heads with 220 cc intake runners
Comp Cam 228/232 .588/.595 111+1
American Racing Headers 1 3/4" with Hi flow cats
Shaner Ported TB
Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley
Ls6 ported oil pump
Before numbers were 307rwhp / 323rwtq
After numbers were 431rwhp / 400rwtq
The car really runs great now but it shakes at idle and I wasn't planning on that. I like the way it sounds but not the shaking. I had Jason at TSP order me another cam. Comp Cam 224/228 .581/.588 114+2
Jason doesn't think I will lose to much power and the idle will be calmer.
I have had race cars in the past and I just want this one to be fun. I don't want it to have that race car feel at idle.
The 224/228 on a 112 or 114 depending on what kind of idle you want, would be a good cam for you. If you want a little more aggressive cam, the 228/232 works great. If you don't mind a little shake at idle, the 111Lsa pulls like crazy or you could get the same cam on either 112 or 114 for a milder idle.
I have the 224/228 Comp Cam. Mine is on a 115 LSA and the car shakes. Not a lot but enough to be annoying. I just ordered a 214/220 116LSA and I'm expecting a real smooth idle but hoping I don't lose too much at the rear wheels. Currently 405 RWHP.
Barney Z, don't be afraid of an underdrive pulley here in Dallas.
I installed an ASP last year. AC still works great, engine temp runs the same around town. Only thing I noticed was 6th gear highway cruise temp went up from 183 to 185 in 100-degree weather.
Now, I'm old, and don't have a mega-watt stereo, so I can't comment about the alternator - mine charges just fine.