C5 Climate Control dim/dark display fix
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
Likes: 228
From: Kemah Texas
I recently went over 100K miles on my DD 2003 C5. Rather than trade it in on a new C6, I decided to keep it for a few more years and maybe spend some $$ on mods.
In the meantime, I started fixing the small issues, one of which was a dim (almost dead) HVAC display. I printed out the procedure, and had the SM resistors resoldered in no time (my 2003 had the resistors layed out like England Green's). It was more hassle R&R-ing the dash/console panels than anything else.
The display works like new and is even more bright than I remember. I don't know why I waited so long. I can't tell you how pleasing it is to have something as simple as a properly working HVAC display.
It was about a 90 minute effort overall.
BTW, I used a Weller 40-watt solder station with a 1/32" conical tip which worked just fine. I lightly applied a touch of solder on each end of the SM resistors, and then held the resistors in place with the end of a scribe and heated each end to make sure the solder flowed properly without the resistor lifting.
Now, as soon as the relays show up, my next project with be those PITA door lock/unlock relay replacements.
In the meantime, I started fixing the small issues, one of which was a dim (almost dead) HVAC display. I printed out the procedure, and had the SM resistors resoldered in no time (my 2003 had the resistors layed out like England Green's). It was more hassle R&R-ing the dash/console panels than anything else.
The display works like new and is even more bright than I remember. I don't know why I waited so long. I can't tell you how pleasing it is to have something as simple as a properly working HVAC display.
It was about a 90 minute effort overall.
BTW, I used a Weller 40-watt solder station with a 1/32" conical tip which worked just fine. I lightly applied a touch of solder on each end of the SM resistors, and then held the resistors in place with the end of a scribe and heated each end to make sure the solder flowed properly without the resistor lifting.
Now, as soon as the relays show up, my next project with be those PITA door lock/unlock relay replacements.
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: McKinney Texas
Replacement bulbs
C5 Climate Control light repair
Several lights behind the buttons burned out recently. I found a great replacement bulb at Radio Shack. The part number is:
12V/50mA Incandescent Bulb
Model: 272-1154 | Catalog #: 272-1154
$1.99
Here is the link to the part on the Radio Shack website.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2104023#
With basic soldering skills and a solder removal tool (suction tool), it was simple to desolder the old bulbs and remove excess solder from the circuit board holes. I decided to replace all 14 bulbs. They fit perfectly and light up great!
Hope you find this useful.
Several lights behind the buttons burned out recently. I found a great replacement bulb at Radio Shack. The part number is:
12V/50mA Incandescent Bulb
Model: 272-1154 | Catalog #: 272-1154
$1.99
Here is the link to the part on the Radio Shack website.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2104023#
With basic soldering skills and a solder removal tool (suction tool), it was simple to desolder the old bulbs and remove excess solder from the circuit board holes. I decided to replace all 14 bulbs. They fit perfectly and light up great!
Hope you find this useful.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 228
Likes: 1
From: eustis FL Saved and blessed; what else matter?
Dang! Why couldn't I have found this thread before ruining my board trying to do the LED install. All I REALLY needed to do was replace the backlights and re-solder the resistors??? Goes to show I need to spend more time lying around playing with my computer! Now I've gotta find a new or rebuilt controller!!!
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Racer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: RI
So yesterday I attempted this fix with no soldering experience. I ran into a few early problems with heating those resistor pieces or whatever they are right off the board and my first solder was a huge solder ball that was terrible looking. After I while I started getting pretty good with it. By the end my buddy was like there is no way that board is still going to work, you jacked it up. I had faith, but at the same time was ready to buy a new display. Installed it, and bam it worked just like it was brand new. I am so glad I found this write up, I appreciate all of you who actually figure stuff like this out.
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville Alabama
I just picked up a 2002 Z06 last week.
It had the dim A/C display issue. I pulled the A/C control and reflowed the solder connections on all the 241 resistors. 3 of them were only soldered on one side. I now have a bright display . Great write up...Thanks! The passenger door lock control module relay fix is next. Relays are ordered.
It had the dim A/C display issue. I pulled the A/C control and reflowed the solder connections on all the 241 resistors. 3 of them were only soldered on one side. I now have a bright display . Great write up...Thanks! The passenger door lock control module relay fix is next. Relays are ordered.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 1
From: Mechanicsville Md
You guys are awesome!!! I followed the instructions which were spot on! I re-soldered everyone of the chips and low and behold the display works like new. Thank you very much. This forum is great.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 29,937
Likes: 22
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Cruise-In 1-2-3-4-5 Veteran
I have a dead display, but I bought my car third-hand and the true biggest problem I have is, one of the previous owners must have had long fingernails and I have heavy fingernail wear-marks through the paint around the adjustment *****.
I don't think there can be a good way to re-paint or touch up the panel, is there?
I don't think there can be a good way to re-paint or touch up the panel, is there?
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 1
From: Roseville CA
This thread is AWESOME! I just soldered all the "241"'s and it works like new. Was a little dim at first, but then came to life.
One thing I did get confused about and to remember is definitly removed the back part of the console first in order to get it loose around the a/c unit. You need to take everything apart not just the active handling.
Anyhow I'm STOKED.
This needs to be a sticky
One thing I did get confused about and to remember is definitly removed the back part of the console first in order to get it loose around the a/c unit. You need to take everything apart not just the active handling.
Anyhow I'm STOKED.
This needs to be a sticky
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta Ga
First and foremost, this is not my fix! I spent a while searching multiple forums on info on how to do this, and found it all in several places. All I'm doing is collecting the info I found to put it in one step by step place with minor footnotes of my own. I will list names and URL's to each area I found the info from, and if anyone would like their info removed I will gladly do so!
Just trying to save the next poor guy some time for looking all over and following all the various links from everywhere
Hope this helps!
For the first steps, find pictures and more detailed instructions where I did, at http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
Their list of tools is for a bigger job, you wont need all of the ones listed, you'll need others for actually fixing the control unit, and you only need to go to step 3g, no further for this section!
***If you have a convertible with the body colored "waterfall" you will have to remove it first. If not, skip this step. 4 screws total, size 15 torx screws, two on the top, one on each side towards the bottom. Just gently pull up to remove it.
Remove the console - Gently remove the Active Handling trim plate and wiring connections beneath it and to the console. Remove the 4 10mm nuts. Pick up only the back of the console to get it over the rear bolts, then slide it towards the back to get it out from the front bolts. The front is slotted to slide all the way out.
Remove the instrument trim panel - Gently pry out the trim panel to the left of the ignition switch, and remove the ashtray. Remove the 3 #15 torx screws. GENTLY pull the panel only a little ways! Back towards the top, and up at the bottom/back where 2 of the 10mm nuts were removed from the front of the console area (behind the shifter). Remove the cigarette lighter power. ***If it's a 6spd, remove the boot carefully, I pulled mine up, but this site says you can push it down also*** Once you've verified everything is free, carefully pull it out and set it safely aside.
Again, I highly recommend going to the following site http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html for pictures and a more detailed step by step instructions for the above steps.
The following steps are not found at the above URL.
Now you have a clear shot to your Climate Control unit! There are only 2 screws holding it in place. I'm sorry I didn’t get the size of them, but they're easily accessible to test a few sockets to find the perfect match
Remove the screws, pull the unit out a little way, and remove the connector in the back. Pay attention to the connector, there's an area you have to press to release the clip to be able to pull it out.
Now that you have the unit out, take it to a safe place, preferably the clean worktable you will be finishing the work on it
Carefully remove the 4 screws on the corners holding it together. They are small, and have very coarse threads, so use a hand screwdriver style tool preferably, NOT a drill, if you only have a ratchet set, just be very careful not to over tighten it when you're done!
The following was ninja'ed from RPOZ4Z at Corvette Forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=2 on page 2 post # 24. Thank you VERY much RPOZ4Z for putting words to sight so I knew what the hell to solder!!!
There is a 2nd variation of this board, which is the one I found in my 01 convertible. Thank you EnglandGreen for posting the other kind of board as seen below! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=3 Same thread, page 3 post #50
On both boards, it's very easy to unplug the power board from the front of the unit to work on it. And on either board, what you're looking for is those little black guys with "241" printed on them. I used a Cold Heat soldering gun I got from Radio shack an hour or two earlier in my then together car The tip it came with was not ideal, but it finally got the job done!
I tried to see which seemed loose and only solder those few. Don’t bother trying, either you wont be able to tell, or you'll break them off looking for the loose ones. I fixed the 2 obvious ones, and went out to the car to try it, but only got a very dim light. When I went back and soldered more they were practically ALL broken on one side
Be careful to try and hold them in place so they don’t move if you happen to solder the good end first. I had one come completely off the board, and it was very hard to get it back on. I eventually wound up putting solder on the contacts on the board first, then putting the chip back on and soldering, it was a pain. I just rested the back of a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver on them to keep them in place, it doesn’t take much.
When you finally have them all done on both sides, carefully put the unit back together. Be sure to line up the pins on the back cover, and be careful with the small coarse threaded screws. I put them in the hole, turned them backwards until I felt where the thread was and then gently screwed them in until tight. You do not want to torque them at all, it will be obvious when they're tight and you're against the circuit board. Same with the screws that hold the casing together.
Now before you put everything back together in your car, make sure you turn the ignition on to make sure it lights up! You don’t need to start the car, just put it in the on position. Assuming everything works, CONGRATULATIONS! Follow the steps in reverse order to put everything back together, reconnect all the electrical items, and make sure not to strip or over tighten anything. One thing I did notice is the screw behind the ashtray seems loose when you're putting it back together at first. It's just the nature of the clip. Once the dash is in position and you snug it up it will get tight.
Now that I know what I'm doing, it really is a quick job! If you read up and study the pictures first, it should go pretty smoothly long as you or someone you know can solder ok
Cordless Coldheat Soldering gun - $19.99
4 pack AA batteries - $3.99
.022 dia High Tech Rosin Core Solder - $3.99
Saving $500 and a day spent at the dealership with no car - priceless!
-ALSO!!! If you DONT want to risk soldering it yourself, try a local reputable electronics expert. Long as you can show him what's broke he can probably fix it. Or if you have time to wait for mail have an expert do it for you!!! I don’t know this person at all, I just found the following in my search!
From member rws.1 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #2
and from member widewheel http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #3
I personally needed the soldering equipment to fix a headset as well, and plan to use it in the future so for me it was worth it. But if you're concerned, don’t have the equipment, $45-$50 to have someone do it and warranty it vs. $28 in equipment sounds like a pretty darn good deal!!! Looks like he gets rave reviews to boot!
MUCH thanks to everyone that did the legwork everywhere to get all this great info out there, I hope this makes it easier to find and read through all the various steps!
Just trying to save the next poor guy some time for looking all over and following all the various links from everywhere
Hope this helps!
For the first steps, find pictures and more detailed instructions where I did, at http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
Their list of tools is for a bigger job, you wont need all of the ones listed, you'll need others for actually fixing the control unit, and you only need to go to step 3g, no further for this section!
***If you have a convertible with the body colored "waterfall" you will have to remove it first. If not, skip this step. 4 screws total, size 15 torx screws, two on the top, one on each side towards the bottom. Just gently pull up to remove it.
Remove the console - Gently remove the Active Handling trim plate and wiring connections beneath it and to the console. Remove the 4 10mm nuts. Pick up only the back of the console to get it over the rear bolts, then slide it towards the back to get it out from the front bolts. The front is slotted to slide all the way out.
Remove the instrument trim panel - Gently pry out the trim panel to the left of the ignition switch, and remove the ashtray. Remove the 3 #15 torx screws. GENTLY pull the panel only a little ways! Back towards the top, and up at the bottom/back where 2 of the 10mm nuts were removed from the front of the console area (behind the shifter). Remove the cigarette lighter power. ***If it's a 6spd, remove the boot carefully, I pulled mine up, but this site says you can push it down also*** Once you've verified everything is free, carefully pull it out and set it safely aside.
Again, I highly recommend going to the following site http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html for pictures and a more detailed step by step instructions for the above steps.
The following steps are not found at the above URL.
Now you have a clear shot to your Climate Control unit! There are only 2 screws holding it in place. I'm sorry I didn’t get the size of them, but they're easily accessible to test a few sockets to find the perfect match
Remove the screws, pull the unit out a little way, and remove the connector in the back. Pay attention to the connector, there's an area you have to press to release the clip to be able to pull it out.Now that you have the unit out, take it to a safe place, preferably the clean worktable you will be finishing the work on it
Carefully remove the 4 screws on the corners holding it together. They are small, and have very coarse threads, so use a hand screwdriver style tool preferably, NOT a drill, if you only have a ratchet set, just be very careful not to over tighten it when you're done!
The following was ninja'ed from RPOZ4Z at Corvette Forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=2 on page 2 post # 24. Thank you VERY much RPOZ4Z for putting words to sight so I knew what the hell to solder!!!
There is a 2nd variation of this board, which is the one I found in my 01 convertible. Thank you EnglandGreen for posting the other kind of board as seen below! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=3 Same thread, page 3 post #50
On both boards, it's very easy to unplug the power board from the front of the unit to work on it. And on either board, what you're looking for is those little black guys with "241" printed on them. I used a Cold Heat soldering gun I got from Radio shack an hour or two earlier in my then together car
The tip it came with was not ideal, but it finally got the job done!I tried to see which seemed loose and only solder those few. Don’t bother trying, either you wont be able to tell, or you'll break them off looking for the loose ones. I fixed the 2 obvious ones, and went out to the car to try it, but only got a very dim light. When I went back and soldered more they were practically ALL broken on one side
Be careful to try and hold them in place so they don’t move if you happen to solder the good end first. I had one come completely off the board, and it was very hard to get it back on. I eventually wound up putting solder on the contacts on the board first, then putting the chip back on and soldering, it was a pain. I just rested the back of a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver on them to keep them in place, it doesn’t take much.
When you finally have them all done on both sides, carefully put the unit back together. Be sure to line up the pins on the back cover, and be careful with the small coarse threaded screws. I put them in the hole, turned them backwards until I felt where the thread was and then gently screwed them in until tight. You do not want to torque them at all, it will be obvious when they're tight and you're against the circuit board. Same with the screws that hold the casing together.
Now before you put everything back together in your car, make sure you turn the ignition on to make sure it lights up! You don’t need to start the car, just put it in the on position. Assuming everything works, CONGRATULATIONS! Follow the steps in reverse order to put everything back together, reconnect all the electrical items, and make sure not to strip or over tighten anything. One thing I did notice is the screw behind the ashtray seems loose when you're putting it back together at first. It's just the nature of the clip. Once the dash is in position and you snug it up it will get tight.
Now that I know what I'm doing, it really is a quick job! If you read up and study the pictures first, it should go pretty smoothly long as you or someone you know can solder ok
Cordless Coldheat Soldering gun - $19.99
4 pack AA batteries - $3.99
.022 dia High Tech Rosin Core Solder - $3.99
Saving $500 and a day spent at the dealership with no car - priceless!
-ALSO!!! If you DONT want to risk soldering it yourself, try a local reputable electronics expert. Long as you can show him what's broke he can probably fix it. Or if you have time to wait for mail have an expert do it for you!!! I don’t know this person at all, I just found the following in my search!
From member rws.1 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #2
and from member widewheel http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #3
I personally needed the soldering equipment to fix a headset as well, and plan to use it in the future so for me it was worth it. But if you're concerned, don’t have the equipment, $45-$50 to have someone do it and warranty it vs. $28 in equipment sounds like a pretty darn good deal!!! Looks like he gets rave reviews to boot!
MUCH thanks to everyone that did the legwork everywhere to get all this great info out there, I hope this makes it easier to find and read through all the various steps!
Since it was open I changed all the regular lightbulbs to colored LED's and it looks better than ever. I also did the traction control button and it looks great also.
First time with a soldering iron with tiny electronics.
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
:
LED lights? Where to buy? What thread talks about replacing them? Please help.
Oh Congrats too. I fixed mine too and good as new.
I just did mine and it's as good as new. Great writeup, Thank You!!
Since it was open I changed all the regular lightbulbs to colored LED's and it looks better than ever. I also did the traction control button and it looks great also.
First time with a soldering iron with tiny electronics.
Since it was open I changed all the regular lightbulbs to colored LED's and it looks better than ever. I also did the traction control button and it looks great also.
First time with a soldering iron with tiny electronics.
Oh Congrats too. I fixed mine too and good as new.
