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Hello, 2Big2Fit,
Asked this once before but I'm sure you didn't have my e-mail address. It's in the forum now. Can you provide me with a name and address for this fellow. It sounds like the way to go for me. I'm a little too shaky for fine soldering work.
Thanks again,
Pete O.
Just fixed my display! Been bugging me forever. I had the 2nd variation. Some of the resistors came out of place a little, but I had so much solder there that the multimeter confirmed no resistance. After a second of letting it "warm up" it turned right on bright as new. Great info! Thanks again!
Now I guess I need to tackle led-replacements.
If i did it again, I'd cut a very thin piece of electrical tape to place over the row of resistors to keep them planted while I worked. They probably wouldn't have moved if I had done that. Still, its very easy even if you are not a great person with a soldering iron. (I would say I'm about average-slightly experienced.)
I just went to Home-Depot and spent $15 on a weller cordless soldering iron,with solder.I followed the instructions,plugged it back in and for the first time in 2 years ....IT LIT UP !I cant thank the folks on this forum enough.God Bless.
I found that one end of the 241's were not attached and the other end was holding them on the board...if you try to re-solder the good end they will move around, but if you solder the bad end first, nothing moves. I would imagine you could test the "good" vs "bad" ends by using a ohm meter to test resistance between the 241 and the board. Just an observation...I've been thrilled with my working display just like everyone else here. I have lost almost all of my bulbs now...working on the resistor+LED install project down the road.
Is there anyone in or near Philadelphia, Pa. that does this kind of repair.
I'm just not good at stuff like this. Maybe a shop that will remove and fix this ... it's driving me nuts?
Is there anyone in or near Philadelphia, Pa. that does this kind of repair.
I'm just not good at stuff like this. Maybe a shop that will remove and fix this ... it's driving me nuts?
a guy on ebay repairs them for 50-100 bucks
he also replaces all the bulbs
Last edited by thetaxman; May 10, 2008 at 01:55 PM.
Take it to a local TV repair shop. They can solder those back on in a snap. That way there wont be any shipping charges, and you can slide it back in the car and test it while your there.
I recommended that to another person and it worked out well for them. He really like being able to test it after it was resoldered.
The backlight bulbs all run in series off one circuit;
Radio Shack sells a 60ma bulb that is very close to the stock 70ma. I recommend replacing all of those at once...
The LEDs are controlled by the buttons each one represent but I'm not sure where that circuitry goes. If you have a few LEDs out try replacing them...
And that's all I know!
I previously fixed my display but need to replace my bulbs. I've looked at a couple of Radio Shacks for replacement bulbs as described above but haven't found anything. Maybe I'm just not looking in the right place. Can anyone verify for me- are these actual light bulbs or are they LEDs? If they're actual bulbs, can they be replaced by LEDs? Can anyone who's performed this part of the fix provide any further info on source(s) with P/Ns for getting replacement bulbs?
Very informative thread! I did mine today and I'd like to add:
Update the equipment list on the first page, to reflect the sockets needed to do the job. Was missing 7mm (the nuts which hold the hvac unit to the dash) and 3/16" (the screws that hold the control unit together). As a previous poster mentioned, you have to have a thin-walled socket. My standard Craftsman w/ a 1/4 drive worked OK.
I just picked up my 2000 C5 from the lot yesterday. (It was used in a new tire development wear test at my company and was in excellent shape.) It wasn't until after I read this thread that I realised this is an issue I can repair myself. Thanks for all the info as it helped me in my decision to buy the car.
Question: Could someone recommend the best type of soldering iron (brand name and model) to do this intricate work? I do own a Weller soldering gun, but after reading thru all of these posts it seems a smaller solering iron would be best.
I just traded my 93 C4 for an 02 C5. I was so enthraled with the fact that I was finally getteing a C5 that I over looked the little things. Well when I finally came down I noticed the display was dim. I researched it and discovered this thread. I liked the way you posted pictures and setp by step instructions. Thanks, you rock!!!!!