C5 Climate Control dim/dark display fix
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Possumcountry USA
Excellent thread! It took me a while but having next to no experience soldering it was simple. I highly recommend having a tweezers available for when the parts move, which they will. Next I have to find out where to buy the little lights, only 4 of them work so that leaves 10 needing replacement.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,774
Likes: 363
From: Midland TX
Just found this post and it looks like it is an answer to the problem I started having today.
My question is - I am still covered by the GMPP, but wondering if they replace it with a NEW head unit if it would be any better? Or would it be better for me to perform this on my existing unit?
I don't see any explaination as to WHY this would appear on my car after 7 years of daily driving. Why would these soldered components start t0 come loose all of a sudden?
My question is - I am still covered by the GMPP, but wondering if they replace it with a NEW head unit if it would be any better? Or would it be better for me to perform this on my existing unit?
I don't see any explaination as to WHY this would appear on my car after 7 years of daily driving. Why would these soldered components start t0 come loose all of a sudden?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
Super Success & Definite Sticky!
Kudos to Genocid and the many others here, I had the "dim" problem, tried the "tapping/rapping" on the display (which worked a bit), so tried it full-force as outlined. I had removed it all before to install the white guage faces, so I raced through and did it all in about an hour. Couple of Install Notes: The small hex screws worked out with a standard socket (5mm I think); the soldering was a touch tricky, used a standard 40w iron, mini C-clamped (with rubber pads) a toothpick across the resistor tops to limit their movement and just set the soldering tip on each resistor end, adding just a touch of solder to each edge/end, a few resistors were even a bit crooked; magnify-glassed the result to be sure no solder crossed-over, found one had, then heated that away. Reinstalled it worked like new, just as bright as the stereo display. Thank you so friggin' much ... this was a great string
.
.
Last edited by Thrash; Jul 26, 2007 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Forgot the "toothpick" part
Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Hotlanta GA
Thank you so much for posting this! I've been driving around for two years doing "guess" mode on the hvac. Took me less than an hour to do this fix, but I've had the console off before and have a nice soldering station as well.
Thanks again!
Dan
Thanks again!
Dan
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
I posted this on the other huge thread about this :
Here are the pictures of the whole process:
I have a 2000 with the new style where the resistors are in the center.
Here are the Pictures:
http://www.brookins.us/accontroller/
Here are the pictures of the whole process:
I have a 2000 with the new style where the resistors are in the center.
Here are the Pictures:
http://www.brookins.us/accontroller/
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
First and foremost, this is not my fix! I spent a while searching multiple forums on info on how to do this, and found it all in several places. All I'm doing is collecting the info I found to put it in one step by step place with minor footnotes of my own. I will list names and URL's to each area I found the info from, and if anyone would like their info removed I will gladly do so!
Just trying to save the next poor guy some time for looking all over and following all the various links from everywhere
Hope this helps!
For the first steps, find pictures and more detailed instructions where I did, at http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
Their list of tools is for a bigger job, you wont need all of the ones listed, you'll need others for actually fixing the control unit, and you only need to go to step 3g, no further for this section!
***If you have a convertible with the body colored "waterfall" you will have to remove it first. If not, skip this step. 4 screws total, size 15 torx screws, two on the top, one on each side towards the bottom. Just gently pull up to remove it.
Remove the console - Gently remove the Active Handling trim plate and wiring connections beneath it and to the console. Remove the 4 10mm nuts. Pick up only the back of the console to get it over the rear bolts, then slide it towards the back to get it out from the front bolts. The front is slotted to slide all the way out.
Remove the instrument trim panel - Gently pry out the trim panel to the left of the ignition switch, and remove the ashtray. Remove the 3 #15 torx screws. GENTLY pull the panel only a little ways! Back towards the top, and up at the bottom/back where 2 of the 10mm nuts were removed from the front of the console area (behind the shifter). Remove the cigarette lighter power. ***If it's a 6spd, remove the boot carefully, I pulled mine up, but this site says you can push it down also*** Once you've verified everything is free, carefully pull it out and set it safely aside.
Again, I highly recommend going to the following site http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html for pictures and a more detailed step by step instructions for the above steps.
The following steps are not found at the above URL.
Now you have a clear shot to your Climate Control unit! There are only 2 screws holding it in place. I'm sorry I didn’t get the size of them, but they're easily accessible to test a few sockets to find the perfect match
Remove the screws, pull the unit out a little way, and remove the connector in the back. Pay attention to the connector, there's an area you have to press to release the clip to be able to pull it out.
Now that you have the unit out, take it to a safe place, preferably the clean worktable you will be finishing the work on it
Carefully remove the 4 screws on the corners holding it together. They are small, and have very coarse threads, so use a hand screwdriver style tool preferably, NOT a drill, if you only have a ratchet set, just be very careful not to over tighten it when you're done!
The following was ninja'ed from RPOZ4Z at Corvette Forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=2 on page 2 post # 24. Thank you VERY much RPOZ4Z for putting words to sight so I knew what the hell to solder!!!
There is a 2nd variation of this board, which is the one I found in my 01 convertible. Thank you EnglandGreen for posting the other kind of board as seen below! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=3 Same thread, page 3 post #50
On both boards, it's very easy to unplug the power board from the front of the unit to work on it. And on either board, what you're looking for is those little black guys with "241" printed on them. I used a Cold Heat soldering gun I got from Radio shack an hour or two earlier in my then together car The tip it came with was not ideal, but it finally got the job done!
I tried to see which seemed loose and only solder those few. Don’t bother trying, either you wont be able to tell, or you'll break them off looking for the loose ones. I fixed the 2 obvious ones, and went out to the car to try it, but only got a very dim light. When I went back and soldered more they were practically ALL broken on one side
Be careful to try and hold them in place so they don’t move if you happen to solder the good end first. I had one come completely off the board, and it was very hard to get it back on. I eventually wound up putting solder on the contacts on the board first, then putting the chip back on and soldering, it was a pain. I just rested the back of a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver on them to keep them in place, it doesn’t take much.
When you finally have them all done on both sides, carefully put the unit back together. Be sure to line up the pins on the back cover, and be careful with the small coarse threaded screws. I put them in the hole, turned them backwards until I felt where the thread was and then gently screwed them in until tight. You do not want to torque them at all, it will be obvious when they're tight and you're against the circuit board. Same with the screws that hold the casing together.
Now before you put everything back together in your car, make sure you turn the ignition on to make sure it lights up! You don’t need to start the car, just put it in the on position. Assuming everything works, CONGRATULATIONS! Follow the steps in reverse order to put everything back together, reconnect all the electrical items, and make sure not to strip or over tighten anything. One thing I did notice is the screw behind the ashtray seems loose when you're putting it back together at first. It's just the nature of the clip. Once the dash is in position and you snug it up it will get tight.
Now that I know what I'm doing, it really is a quick job! If you read up and study the pictures first, it should go pretty smoothly long as you or someone you know can solder ok
Cordless Coldheat Soldering gun - $19.99
4 pack AA batteries - $3.99
.022 dia High Tech Rosin Core Solder - $3.99
Saving $500 and a day spent at the dealership with no car - priceless!
-ALSO!!! If you DONT want to risk soldering it yourself, try a local reputable electronics expert. Long as you can show him what's broke he can probably fix it. Or if you have time to wait for mail have an expert do it for you!!! I don’t know this person at all, I just found the following in my search!
From member rws.1 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #2
and from member widewheel http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #3
I personally needed the soldering equipment to fix a headset as well, and plan to use it in the future so for me it was worth it. But if you're concerned, don’t have the equipment, $45-$50 to have someone do it and warranty it vs. $28 in equipment sounds like a pretty darn good deal!!! Looks like he gets rave reviews to boot!
MUCH thanks to everyone that did the legwork everywhere to get all this great info out there, I hope this makes it easier to find and read through all the various steps!
Just trying to save the next poor guy some time for looking all over and following all the various links from everywhere
Hope this helps!
For the first steps, find pictures and more detailed instructions where I did, at http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
Their list of tools is for a bigger job, you wont need all of the ones listed, you'll need others for actually fixing the control unit, and you only need to go to step 3g, no further for this section!
***If you have a convertible with the body colored "waterfall" you will have to remove it first. If not, skip this step. 4 screws total, size 15 torx screws, two on the top, one on each side towards the bottom. Just gently pull up to remove it.
Remove the console - Gently remove the Active Handling trim plate and wiring connections beneath it and to the console. Remove the 4 10mm nuts. Pick up only the back of the console to get it over the rear bolts, then slide it towards the back to get it out from the front bolts. The front is slotted to slide all the way out.
Remove the instrument trim panel - Gently pry out the trim panel to the left of the ignition switch, and remove the ashtray. Remove the 3 #15 torx screws. GENTLY pull the panel only a little ways! Back towards the top, and up at the bottom/back where 2 of the 10mm nuts were removed from the front of the console area (behind the shifter). Remove the cigarette lighter power. ***If it's a 6spd, remove the boot carefully, I pulled mine up, but this site says you can push it down also*** Once you've verified everything is free, carefully pull it out and set it safely aside.
Again, I highly recommend going to the following site http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html for pictures and a more detailed step by step instructions for the above steps.
The following steps are not found at the above URL.
Now you have a clear shot to your Climate Control unit! There are only 2 screws holding it in place. I'm sorry I didn’t get the size of them, but they're easily accessible to test a few sockets to find the perfect match
Remove the screws, pull the unit out a little way, and remove the connector in the back. Pay attention to the connector, there's an area you have to press to release the clip to be able to pull it out.Now that you have the unit out, take it to a safe place, preferably the clean worktable you will be finishing the work on it
Carefully remove the 4 screws on the corners holding it together. They are small, and have very coarse threads, so use a hand screwdriver style tool preferably, NOT a drill, if you only have a ratchet set, just be very careful not to over tighten it when you're done!
The following was ninja'ed from RPOZ4Z at Corvette Forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=2 on page 2 post # 24. Thank you VERY much RPOZ4Z for putting words to sight so I knew what the hell to solder!!!
There is a 2nd variation of this board, which is the one I found in my 01 convertible. Thank you EnglandGreen for posting the other kind of board as seen below! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=3 Same thread, page 3 post #50
On both boards, it's very easy to unplug the power board from the front of the unit to work on it. And on either board, what you're looking for is those little black guys with "241" printed on them. I used a Cold Heat soldering gun I got from Radio shack an hour or two earlier in my then together car
The tip it came with was not ideal, but it finally got the job done!I tried to see which seemed loose and only solder those few. Don’t bother trying, either you wont be able to tell, or you'll break them off looking for the loose ones. I fixed the 2 obvious ones, and went out to the car to try it, but only got a very dim light. When I went back and soldered more they were practically ALL broken on one side
Be careful to try and hold them in place so they don’t move if you happen to solder the good end first. I had one come completely off the board, and it was very hard to get it back on. I eventually wound up putting solder on the contacts on the board first, then putting the chip back on and soldering, it was a pain. I just rested the back of a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver on them to keep them in place, it doesn’t take much.
When you finally have them all done on both sides, carefully put the unit back together. Be sure to line up the pins on the back cover, and be careful with the small coarse threaded screws. I put them in the hole, turned them backwards until I felt where the thread was and then gently screwed them in until tight. You do not want to torque them at all, it will be obvious when they're tight and you're against the circuit board. Same with the screws that hold the casing together.
Now before you put everything back together in your car, make sure you turn the ignition on to make sure it lights up! You don’t need to start the car, just put it in the on position. Assuming everything works, CONGRATULATIONS! Follow the steps in reverse order to put everything back together, reconnect all the electrical items, and make sure not to strip or over tighten anything. One thing I did notice is the screw behind the ashtray seems loose when you're putting it back together at first. It's just the nature of the clip. Once the dash is in position and you snug it up it will get tight.
Now that I know what I'm doing, it really is a quick job! If you read up and study the pictures first, it should go pretty smoothly long as you or someone you know can solder ok
Cordless Coldheat Soldering gun - $19.99
4 pack AA batteries - $3.99
.022 dia High Tech Rosin Core Solder - $3.99
Saving $500 and a day spent at the dealership with no car - priceless!
-ALSO!!! If you DONT want to risk soldering it yourself, try a local reputable electronics expert. Long as you can show him what's broke he can probably fix it. Or if you have time to wait for mail have an expert do it for you!!! I don’t know this person at all, I just found the following in my search!
From member rws.1 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #2
and from member widewheel http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #3
I personally needed the soldering equipment to fix a headset as well, and plan to use it in the future so for me it was worth it. But if you're concerned, don’t have the equipment, $45-$50 to have someone do it and warranty it vs. $28 in equipment sounds like a pretty darn good deal!!! Looks like he gets rave reviews to boot!
MUCH thanks to everyone that did the legwork everywhere to get all this great info out there, I hope this makes it easier to find and read through all the various steps!
Thanks,Matt
8th Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Maple Plain MN
Did you ever solve your problem with the lights on all of the time?
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: East Lyme CT
Another happy customer!
Add me to the list of happy folks who made the repair and can read the display in daylight. 45 minutes from opening the door to completion - would have been shorter if I hadn't dropped a screw down the carpet beside the tunnel!!!
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 2
From: Plano Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
looks like I have a project for this weekend. my display has been going from dim to bright, etc, for a couple weeks now. I thought maybe they installed a new feature where the intensity of the display changed with the music 
j/k but looks to be a pretty simple job. I just had my center console off last weekend fixing my cigarette lighter, so I should have done it then.
thanks for a great writeup!
j/k but looks to be a pretty simple job. I just had my center console off last weekend fixing my cigarette lighter, so I should have done it then.thanks for a great writeup!
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 455
Likes: 11
From: Clovis CA
awesome thread. i cleaned my garage today and decided to work on the vette's dim problem since i am out here. it took about 20 mins. start to finish plus i was able to clean the schmutz from behind the surrounds!!
now i know what's going on temp wise.
now i know what's going on temp wise.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 455
Likes: 11
From: Clovis CA
7th Gear
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
help
I fixed my display, it's all bright now and only got one burned finger. But 13 of the 14 little lights are burned out. Radio Shack didn't have them. Car Quest may. Do the dealerships sell those little things?
If I understand correctly I must solder in all 14 new bulbs before I will know if they actually work since it is a continuous circuit????
and only got one burned finger. But 13 of the 14 little lights are burned out. Radio Shack didn't have them. Car Quest may. Do the dealerships sell those little things?If I understand correctly I must solder in all 14 new bulbs before I will know if they actually work since it is a continuous circuit????
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I fixed my display, it's all bright now and only got one burned finger. But 13 of the 14 little lights are burned out. Radio Shack didn't have them. Car Quest may. Do the dealerships sell those little things?
If I understand correctly I must solder in all 14 new bulbs before I will know if they actually work since it is a continuous circuit????
and only got one burned finger. But 13 of the 14 little lights are burned out. Radio Shack didn't have them. Car Quest may. Do the dealerships sell those little things?If I understand correctly I must solder in all 14 new bulbs before I will know if they actually work since it is a continuous circuit????
Bill